November 28, 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
745 
=xt summer if you cut them down to 2 ft. 
1 the spring. That is, presuming they are 
•ally climbing Roses. We should thin cut 
id regulate the stems, retaining only those 
ade in 1908, if there are sufficient of them 
. cover the available space. In all cases 
ie old stems should be cut away first, giy- 
ia preference to the younger ones. Retain 
i©m at their full length or nearly so. It 
. important to know the class to which they 
dong in order to prune properly, but if 
ley are true climbers thinning is a better 
■rm to apply to the operation than pruning, 
t present you can loosen up the soil as well 
s you can with a fork, at the same time 
urying a liberal quantity of well-decayed 
iw manure. Then at the end of May you 
juld give the border a good* mulching of 
•ell-decayed manure. If you object to 
lanure lying on the surface you could dig 
. in shallowly, using a fork. A good water- 
^or given now and again during the second 
alf of June and till flowering is over would 
e a great advantage. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
418. Transplanting- an Old Ivy. 
I should be much obliged if you would 
et me know if an old Ivy on a wall would 
ive if I cut it hard back, lift it and plant 
t against a tree trunk in the garden, fhe 
tem is 4 in. thick. (S. Farrar, Hants.) 
It is just possible to transplant an old Ivy 
.f the description you mention by lifting it 
vith a good ball of roots, but we do not 
hink much of the cutting down process in 
■rder to plant it against a tree. We think 
•ou would get the tree covered just as 
juickly if you use young shoots of Ivy, 
nserting them about 6 in. deep in well- 
irepared soil round the base of that tree 
runk. When once these cuttings are well 
rooted they would grow away quickly, 
vhereas the old root hampered with a deal 
if old wood might not make much progress 
ifter being disturbed. Select cuttings that 
lave been making vigorous growth in pre¬ 
ference, to those shoots which hang away 
from the wall and are really flowering 
ihoots. The running shoots will make by 
Ea* the most progress in a given time. 
3419. Evergreen Bushes Under Trees. 
On one side of our garden there are three 
rows of trees planted some years ago to giie 
shelter, but they have grown fairly tall 
and have got bare at the bottom. Can I 
Diant them with anything to thicken them 
up and hide the bare ground ? If evergreen, 
so much the better. (R. M. Lowe, Lancs.) 
Several evergreen and deciduous trees 
might be planted beneath the others so as to 
thicken them up by forming an undergrowth. 
There should be a fair amount of light, 
however, otherwise you cannot expect them 
to make very satisfactory growth. Tall 
Privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium) might be 
planted on the side furthest away from the 
garden. Then between the other subjects 
you could plant Mahonia (Berberis Aqui- 
folium), Aucubas, Butcher’s Broom, Olearia 
Haastii and Box. The two latter being of 
slow growth might well be planted on the 
garden side. The Olearia would not do 
well if actually under the other trees. De¬ 
ciduous subjects that would grow under 
those conditions are Snowberries, Spiraea 
japonica, S. salicifolia and some others of 
that class. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
3420. Chrysanthemums Rusted. 
Will you kindly tell me in your next issue 
if the disease on the enclosed Chrysanthe¬ 
mum leaves is the rust, as I have never been 
troubled with it before. If so, what can 1 
do to prevent the recurrence of it another 
year, as I shall have to use the cuttings 
fiom the old stools. -.(Mum, Hertfordshire.) 
The leaves you sent us are very badly af¬ 
fected with rust caused by the fungus named 
Puccinia Hieracii. You will have to remove 
all of the leaves that are in any way rusted 
like the specimens you sent us and burn 
them. A good plan would be to put the 
leaves in a paper bag as you collect them 
and take them to the stokehole furnace where 
they would be consumed. It will be im¬ 
possible to be absolutely^ certain that you 
do not get any rust in your Chrysanthemums 
next year, because there must now be spores 
about on various objects. We should advise 
you to take clean and healthy cuttings and 
then take measures to prevent an outbreak 
of the rust again, if possible. If there is 
any rust inside the leaves which you have 
taken, it may make its appearance between 
this and spring, but if so, you should re¬ 
move the leaves, if you can spare them, and 
have them burned. Then syringe your 
plants about every ten days or a fortnight 
with sulphide of potassium at the rate of 
1 oz. to three gallons of water. This will 
kill the spores on the outside of the leaves 
and prevent them from penetrating into the 
interior of healthy leaves. If you assidu¬ 
ously carry this out all through the next 
season you may get fairly clear of the rust. 
If you observe any plants, whether in the 
garden or growing wild and belonging to 
the same family as the Chrysanthemum at¬ 
tacked with rust, you should have such 
plants, or, at all events, the foliage, de¬ 
stroyed. Keep an outlook for this during 
the summer, because the fungus lives upon 
other plants as well as cultivated Chrysan¬ 
themums. You can also work carefully 
keeping the plants at proper distances apart 
and the foliage dry at least after the end of 
September. Crowding and a damp atmo¬ 
sphere are very liable to foster the disease. 
3421. Points of a Reflexed Chrysanthe¬ 
mum. 
Please discuss the points of a reflexed 
Chrysanthemum for exhibition purposes. 
(IT. Staddon, Essex.) 
There are two forms of reflexed flowers, 
although neither of them are so popular 
as they were at one time. The Japanese 
reflexed is smaller than the ordinary 
Japanese type with closely reflexed florets 
that need not be of uniform length. The 
true old reflexed flower of the Chinese type 
has relatively small and compact flowers 
with reflexed and closely imbricated florets. 
These should be disbudded, as diameter or 
width is one of the first points to be looked 
for on the exhibition table. The depth of the 
flower should correspond and is another im¬ 
portant point. The colours should be clear 
and well defined. The different colours 
should be well distributed over the show- 
boards so that the light and dark ones will 
contrast well'. Another point i^f that the 
florets should be well imbricated and flat, 
not curled or twisted. The flowers should 
also be in their prime condition when staged 
for exhibition. 
VEGETABLES. 
3422. Planting Seakale. 
When is the best time to plant Seakale 
and is it easier to grow than Asparagus? 
Any information would be much appre¬ 
ciated. (W. Beach, Wilts.) 
March is the best month in which to plant 
Seakale, as the ground will then have been 
prepared and by' that time should be getting 
sufficiently dry to be workable without pud¬ 
dling. You might consider it easier to grow 
than Asparagus if you understand the Sea- 
lea le better, but otherwise if you are well 
acquainted with the needs of both of these 
vegetables and supply them, the one is just 
as easy to cultivate as the other. The best 
plan is to get pieces of Seakale root as thick 
as the finger and 3 in. or 4 in. long. These 
should be planted in lines about 15 in. apart 
from one another, and 2 ft. from line to 
line. At the present time the ground should 
be trenched or dug two spades deep, heavily 
manured, and thus made ready for planting 
in March. 
FRUIT. 
3423. Apple Trees Growing Too Freely. 
We have some Apple trees, planted four 
years ago, and they have grown splendidly. 
Indeed, they seem to have grown too much 
for. they do not fruit at ail well. Could y'ou 
suggest anything that would make them fruit 
more easily? (R. M. Lowe, Lancs.) 
It seems that your trees are going too much 
to wood instead of producing fruiting spurs. 
A good plan would be to root-prune them 
by taking out a trench all round the tree 
about 3 ft. from the main stem and cutting 
roots which you find extending beyond this. 
Tap-roots which go down deeply should also 
be cut by clearing away the soil from under¬ 
neath the tree with a fork until you lay 
bare the roots. We shall have an article 
upon this subject in an early number. 
3424. Apples Blotched. 
We have King of the Pippins Apple and 
two others, of which we do not know the 
names. They fruit very well most years, 
though the fruits are only moderately large. 
Many of them get covered with round black 
blotches, and they seem to increase after the 
fruits are gathered. What is the cause of 
this, and how can I prevent it? (M. 
Howard, Middlesex.) 
Your Apples are troubled with a skin 
disease, sometimes named Apple scab, and 
caused by a fungus named Fusicladium den- 
driticum. It will increase after the fruits 
have been gathered, especially if the atmos¬ 
phere of the fruit room is kept in a moist 
condition, and If the fruits are in an}' way 
crowded together. The only -thing you can 
do at the present time is to remove the worst 
of the fruits to prevent the spreading of the 
spores. The damage is, however, done dur¬ 
ing the growing season, and the fungus at¬ 
tacks not merely the fruits but the leaves 
and shoots, and lives from one year to an¬ 
other in the shoots of affected trees, so that 
the same trees get affected every year. To 
check this disease the trees should be sprayed 
with Bordeaux mixture, giving the first ap¬ 
plication as soon as the flowers fall and the 
others at intervals of two or three weeks ac¬ 
cording as the weather is wet or dry. 
3425. Replanting Grafted Trees. 
I have three trees I grafted this year—two 
Apples and one Plum. When is the best time 
to remove them, as they are too close? All 
three are grafted on seedling stocks. How 
long will they be before they bear fruit? 
(Novice, Hertfordshire.) 
Y’ou can lift and replant your trees at the 
present time, preserving as many fibrous 
roots as possible and cutting any taproots 
which you may find. This work might have 
been -done to advantage some weeks ago, 
though you are not too late. Just how long 
it will take them to reach a fruitful condi¬ 
tion depends upon whether they are seed¬ 
lings or grafts taken from trees already Ti 
a fiuit-bearing condition. If the grafts were 
taken from fruiting -trees they might flower 
the second year, but more likely it will be 
three years before they commence fruiting 
at all well. Nevertheless, we have seen fruit 
upon a grafted Apple tree the first season. 
It depends much upon the variety and the 
progress they make after being planted. If 
they do not show signs of going -to fruit at 
the" end of the second season and they are 
making vigorous growth, a good plan would 
be to lift and replant them -in the same posi¬ 
tions, as -that will aot upon the young trees 
like root-pruning, and encourage the pro¬ 
duction of fruit spurs. If you had used the 
