December 5, 1908. 
I to plant them apart to make a good 
hedge? (T. AV., Constant Reader.) 
Yew plants spread considerably in course 
ot time, but we think your best plan would 
be to put your large plants at 12 in. to 18 in. 
apart, which would make a hedge in shorter 
time than where allowed to spread more 
widely. Planting them fairly close to¬ 
gether has the effect of encouraging growth 
on the top and two sides of the hedge. If 
planted at the shorter distance it would 
give the hedge more rigidity or stiffness, 
and in after years should any individual 
plant happen to die it would not take long 
for the two adjacent ones to fill up the gap 
e\en if no fresh plant is put in. We should 
advise you to see that the ground where you 
intend to plant is good, and if not, to have 
it deeply dug or trenched, and some lime 
0: chalk put in it, if heavy, to improve it. 
The soil, if not well drained naturally, 
should have a drain to take away water, so 
as to keep the roots in a healthy condition. 
We presume, however, that this has already 
been provided for in the garden if neces¬ 
sary. 
ROSES. 
3432. Roses to Cover a Bank. 
I have a sandy bank which I wish to 
cover with Roses, and should be glad if 
you would tell me the names of half a dozen 
that would be suitable for this purpose. The 
bank is rather sandy. Which is the best 
place to plant them, on the top or the bot¬ 
tom of the bank, to get them to cover it? 
(Learner, Surrey.) 
It depends very much upon the aspect as 
to whether the Roses would do best on the 
top of the bank or at the bottom. If there 
is a wall or fence cn the top of the bank 
behind where you wish to plant the Roses, 
they would probably do best planted on the 
top, as the light would have the effect of 
inducing them to grow away from the fence 
and down the bank. If it is a question of 
sufficient moisture, then the bottom of the 
bank would be the best place to get them to 
make vigorous and rapid growth. You can 
always train the one-year-old shoots in the 
direction you wish them to go. Roses that 
would be suitable for this purpose are 
Dorothy Perkins, Hiawatha, Lady Gay, 
Jersey Beaut}'', Alberic Barbier, and Gar¬ 
denia. These are all Wichuraiana Roses 
which are well adapted for the purpose, as 
they require little or no training. If you 
would like some variety, you could substi¬ 
tute Flora, an evergreen type, and Helene, 
a climbing Polvantha for the last two. 
3433. Roses for Rustic Arch. 
I am making a rustic arch and want tour 
Rose trees for the same, one red, one yellow, 
both summer flowering, and one red and one 
yellow for autumn flowering- The follow¬ 
ing are what I should like on account of 
their foliage :—Crimson Rambler, Hia¬ 
watha, Elisa Robichon and Leontine Ger- 
vais. The last three are of the Wichuraiana 
type. If these will not suit me, will you 
suggest what will, not forgetting the foli¬ 
age and one of each colour for each season. 
If you will be so kind as to answer this in 
this week’s Gardening 'World you will 
oblige. I would like the crimson, not rose 
colour. (Northants, Northamptonshire.) 
All of the Roses you name would be re¬ 
garded as summer flowering ones only. 
Llisa Robichon is rosv yellow, while Leon¬ 
tine Gervais may be described as salmon 
and rose. The two first you name are 
crimson, so that the yellow is not well pro¬ 
nounced. The two for summer that we 
should recommend are Crimson Rambler 
(crimson) and Gardenia (yellow, fading to 
cream). This last is a AATchuraiana and 
would furnish you with fine foliage. An 
autumn flowering crimson that we should 
recommend is Longworth Rambler, a Hy- 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
brid Tea with light crimson flowers, and 
Bouquet d’Or, a Tea Rose with dark yellow 
flowers. These latter two flower so well in 
autumn that they may practically be re¬ 
garded as flowering the whole season 
through, but Longworth Rambler does par¬ 
ticularly well in autumn, in large or small 
guldens and in town or country. The foli¬ 
age of these two are fairly good, though 
nri similar to those of Gardenia. The 
foliage of Crimson Rambler is not quite the 
same as a Wichuraiana, although it is 
handsome enough in its way, and very 
distinct. 
3434. Roses for a Screen. 
At the end of the lawn I want to plant 
something to hide the vegetables in the 
lower end of the garden. I have an idea 
that climbing Roses would be the best thing 
to plant, as we would be able to cut flowers 
from them, and the screen would thus serve 
a double purpose. I would be much obliged 
for the names of a dozen suitable kinds. 
(J. C. Harris, Essex.) 
We have made a selection of Roses that 
are very suitable for making hedges. They 
are not to be hard pruned, or, indeed, 
pruned in the regular sense at any time. 
Thinning out the oldest stems is the proper 
method of doing it, when you have got a 
sufficient number of young ones to make a 
fairly close hedge-like mass in summer. 
The varieties are Dorothy Perkins (pink); 
B.lush Rambler (blush) ; Electra (lemon) ; 
The Wallflower (rosy crimson); Tea Ram¬ 
bler (coppery pink); Lady Gay (xosy pink); 
Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant (rosy pink); 
Longworth Rambler (crimson) ; A . A. 
Richardson (orange yellow, fading to 
apricot) ; Crimson Rambler (crimson); Aimee 
Yifcert (white); and Giuss an Teplitz (scar¬ 
let). These are of different types and may not 
give a hedge all of the same density, as we 
have selected them tor variety. For in¬ 
stance, Climbing Mrs- W. J. Grant and 
Gruss an Teplitz would not be quite so 
bushy as the others, although they should 
serve the purpose of a screen and for giving 
different qualities of flowers. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
3435. The Hardiest Fuchsias. 
Would you please give me the names of 
se me of the most hardy T uchsias that would 
be likely to succeed with me without pro¬ 
tection. What is the most suitable one for 
making a hedge? Should it be pruned with 
the shears like other ~ hedges, and when? 
(A. Harrison, Somerset.) 
l'he most commonly planted of the hardy 
Fuchsias are F. Riccartoni, F. macrostemma 
(often catalogued as F. gracilis), F. 
globosa, F. corallina and Mme. Corneillson. 
The first two are the hardiest and are most 
widely planted in this country. The others 
are more often seen in the scuth, but all of 
them should prove hardy with you. The 
most suitable one for making a hedge 
would be F. Riccartoni, which produces the 
strongest stems, seldom or never requiring 
support when grown in an open situation. 
In the neighbourhood of buildings it would 
grow much taller, but the stems would not 
be so strong. AVe should not prune them 
with the regularity which shears would do. 
but should prefer to cut them in March just 
beyond a bud, so that there would be no 
dead snags when the head commences grow¬ 
ing again. While'mair.taining roughly the 
outline of a hedge we do not see why it need 
be clipped perpendicularly or kept flat on 
the top. In the summer time the plants 
' should, of course, be allowed full freedom 
of growth unless they are young and re¬ 
quire pinching or stopping tocause them to 
assume any particular shape desired. The 
knife, therefore, would be the most suitable 
tool for cutting back rampant or irregular 
757 
shoots that extend beyond the hedge. By 
waiting till March before pruning you will 
then see whether the winter has damaged 
any of the shoots. The others not grown as 
a hedge would be the better for a little regu¬ 
lation at the same time so as to induce them 
to form shapely bushes. 
VEGETABLES. 
3436. Celery Going; Solid at Bottom 
and Rotten. 
About the second week in May 1 planted a 
double row of Celery plants. They seemed 
good sturdy plants, not drawn at all, and 
they seemed to grow away without any ap¬ 
parent check. They have been well watered 
in dry weather and have made fairly large 
roots, but the bottom portion is solid in¬ 
stead of being separate leaves from the out¬ 
side right into the centre. The centre of 
this solid portion is going rotten. Can you 
kindly tell me the cause and remedy. The 
soil is fairly good, not exactly what I should 
call heavy. I dug out a trench 18 in. wide 
and 16 in. deep, and I put 6 in. of good 
rotten' manure in the trench and then about 
4 in. or 5 in. of the best soil, gently tread¬ 
ing it down evenly, loosened the surface 
and planted in this. The soil was not as 
dry as I could have wished when earthing 
up, but not very wet. (Lyndhurst, 
Y'orks.) 
Celery is a biennial and blooms the second 
year, but if it gets a check to growth and 
makes a second start it often commences to 
throw up its flower stem. This is what 
yours is doing, the flower stem being thick 
and solid. This often happens even in mar¬ 
ket gardens. AVe think Celery is often 
grown too rank and coarse by being planted 
over manure in deep trenches. AA'e should 
think a shallower trench would he more suit¬ 
able in your soil, and the manure given 
should be well mixed with soil by digging 
it in and mixing, not covering it in a solid 
mass. Although your Celery was heavily 
watered it had, no doubt, been checked bv 
the drought last summer, and the aridity of 
the atmosphere, while the watering and the 
manure kept the roots and ciowns growing 
below ground. This solid centre is now 
decaying because the temperature is too low 
to enable a flower stem to be thrown up and 
it has thus been checked at an unsuitable 
stage of growth. This may not happen next 
year, especially if you take the precautions 
above mentioned. You are not the only one 
who has had the misfortune to have Celery 
bolting the first year, and fiequently this 
may happen owing to peculiarities of the 
season, over which no one has control. 
3437. Turnips Crocking; Open and 
Rotting;.' 
In May last I sowed some Improved 
AA-hite and Yellow Turnip seed in drills 
9 in. apart, and when an inch or two high 
thinned them out to g in apart in the rows. 
The ground was fairly well manured with 
rotten manure and well worked. The Tur¬ 
nips grew wall and made good roots about 
t; in. to 6 in. in diameter, and then they 
cracked open at the sides, some round the 
root horizontally and some vertical, and 
seme went rotten under the crcwn of leaves. 
Can you tell me the cause and remedy. 
(Lyndhurst, Yorks.) 
It is impossible to be certain as to what 
is the matter with Turnips without inspect¬ 
ing some of them. It may not be due en¬ 
tirely to one cause, but to several. For 
instance, the roots may have been attacked 
in your rich soil with the Ambury disease, 
which causes clubbing, and in that case 
Turnips are sure to get bad before the sea¬ 
son is well advanced. Garden varieties ot 
Turnip are usually selected for their earli- 
r.ess and soft, juicy flesh. Such varieties 
should be pulled and used early. No 
doubt these early varieties reached maturity 
