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THE GARDENING WORLD 
December 12, 1908. 
improve the soil. The manure may be used 
quite rank, especially low down. You can 
easoily have a lawn at the end next the house. 
If convenient, the fruit might be planted 
at the end furthest from the house. A grass 
walk should run from the path to the lence 
between the fruit and the vegetables. We 
should advise you to get Apples worked on 
the Paradise stock and Pears on the Quince. 
The Apples may be in bush form and the 
Pears in pyramidal form. Trees on these 
stocks grow slowly and come into fruit 
earlier. Y'ou ’could only have three rows 
across the garden of this class of fruit. The 
first one should be -4 ft. from the edge of 
the path, the next tree at 6 ft., the third 
tree or row another 6 ft., which would leave 
4 ft. between that and the fence. Fruit 
trees can scarcely be planted closer, as they 
would soon get crowded. Y'ou do not, how¬ 
ever, say what -class of fruit you wish to 
glow. A row of horizontal cordon Apple 
trees on either side of that cross path would 
make a good finish to the fruit quarter. 
Then if the vegetables are in the middle of 
the garden, another cross path should separ¬ 
ate the vegetables from the lawn. If you 
want to hide the rest of the gapden from the 
lawn, you could have a hedge of Sweet Peas 
or climbing Roses at the edge of the vege¬ 
table ground, or if you desire to be economi¬ 
cal you could have a hedge of Scarlet Run¬ 
ners. A pergola should answer very well 
ftom the front gate to the door of the house. 
The aspect will be north-west, but against 
the front garden it should be much better 
lighted. For this latter portion of the per¬ 
gola you might very well use such climbing 
Roses as Dorothy Perkins, Crimson Rambler, 
Hiawatha, Lady Gay and Blush Rambler. 
On the portion that abuts on the house such 
climbers as Forsythia suspensa. Early Dutch 
and Late Dutch Honeysuckle, and the two 
Jasmines (Jasminum nudiflorum and J. of¬ 
ficinale) might be employed to advantage. 
I he soil must also be trenched and other¬ 
wise properly prepared before you plant 
these subjects for the pergola. Y 7 ou do not 
indicate how you are to get into the front 
garden, but we presume it must be from 
inside the gate. If so, a good plan would 
be to run a 2 ft. gravel path through the 
centre from side to side. This would leave 
two borders each 4 ft. wide. In that bed 
next the outside, where we presume the road 
is, we should plant dwarf Roses, as they 
would be better lighted there than close to 
the house. It all depends, however, upon 
the surroundings as to the amount of light 
they will get. In the bed next the house you 
could grow Pansies, Violas, Calceolarias, 
Antirrhinums, or hardy perennials. As we 
do not know your taste in these matters we 
cannot be certain as to what flowers to ad¬ 
vise, but if you are not sure about this or 
any other matter you can make enquiry 
again, giving us some idea in what direction 
your taste lies. We are merely recommend¬ 
ing those things which we think would suc¬ 
ceed judging from the plan and aspect of 
your front and back garden. 
3452. A Dozen Tall Pillar Roses. 
Down the middle of our front garden is 
a fairly wide border and I wish to plant a 
line of tall Roses on either side. Will you 
please name a dozen for this purpose. G. 
Norris, Worcestershire.) 
We presume you desire pillar Roses—that 
is, Roses that may be trained to tall stakes. 
There are, of course, dwarf and tall pillar 
Roses, but as you mention tall Roses only 
we have selected all of them of this tall 
habit. They are Longworth Rambler, Mme. 
Alfred Carriere, Paul’s Carmine Pillar, 
Dorothy Jherkins, The Garland, Reine Olga 
de Wurtemburg, Hiawatha, Gardenia, Jer¬ 
sey Beauty, Lady Gay, Crimson Rambler, 
and Tea Rambler. This will give you a con¬ 
siderable amount of variety and include 
types belonging to the Wichuraiana Roses, 
nybrid leas. Teas, single Roses and Hy¬ 
brid Noisettes. 
3453. Mildew on Greenhouse Roses. 
Can you tell me how best to counteract 
mildew on Roses in a warm greenhouse after 
the Roses are in full growth? Last year 
the foliage was badly blighted just when 
they were advancing to the flowering stage, 
and I would like to prevent it if possible. 
It is a lean-to house and gets plenty of sun 
when there is any. (H. M., Lines.) 
As you have practically to make the atmo¬ 
sphere of your house for the cultivation of 
the Roses you will have to study the ques¬ 
tion of firing and ventilation. About 40 
degs. to 45 degs. as a minimum night tem¬ 
perature will be sufficient for some time to 
come. If you desire to hurry them on ft 
could be raised a little five weeks from this 
time and as the weather gets brighter and 
the sun warmer in spring the night temper¬ 
ature may be gradually advanced to 60 degs. 
Roses will stand a night temperature some 
degrees higher than this, but it is prefer¬ 
able to allow only 60 degs. as the higher 
night temperature. The foliage and the 
flowers will be all the better for it. This 
stage may be reached by the end of February 
or beginning of March when the sun is get¬ 
ting powerful. As time goes on ventilation 
will have to be given on favourable occa¬ 
sions during the day, being careful never to 
allow the temperature to get too high and 
then rush on cold air to bring it down. This 
is a fertile source of producing mildew in 
Roses. It checks the growth of the plants. 
Then should mildew make its appearance 
you should attack it on observing the first 
trace, because it is easier to deal with than 
when allowing it to get fully established be¬ 
fore applying a remedy. There are several 
antidotes to mildew, one of them being Life¬ 
buoy Soap and another sulphide of potas¬ 
sium. The former may be used in a fairly 
strong solution and the latter at the rate of 
^ oz. of the sulphide of potassium (liver of 
sulphur) to the. gallon of water. It is not 
desirable to use a coarse syringe with either 
of these fungicides, and if you have not got 
a proper spraying instrument, your best 
plan would be to use the finest nozzle you 
have upon your syringe. The aim should 
be to just moisten every part of the surface 
of the leaves. Do not apply either of the 
fungicides until it drips off. 
3454. Roses without Spines. 
Are there any Roses without spines? A 
number of us were discussing this point, but 
did not come to any clear conclusion about 
the matter. If there are any, would you 
please say whether they are Teas, Hybrid 
Perpotuals or whatnot. (Doubtful, Sus¬ 
sex.) 
There are no Tea or Hybrid Perpetual 
Roses without spines so far as we have 
been able to see. Zephrine Drouhin is a 
Bourbon Rose which is thornless and very 
sweetly scented. Some wild Roses are more 
or less spineless, including the alpine Rose 
(Rosa alpina). The suckers coming up from 
the base of young plants in this species 
have a few prickles but as the plant be¬ 
comes established, the stems are practically 
devoid of prickles. The North American 
R. blanda has a few prickles on the strong 
suckers which come up from the base, but 
these soon fall away and a large bush be¬ 
comes practically thornless. Two other 
Roses have been recorded, but neither of 
them seems to be in cultivation in this 
country, at least not under the recorded 
names. They both enjoy the name of R. 
inermis, which means unarmed or without 
prickles. R. inermis, Bose., is a native of 
India and China, while R. inermis, Luce., 
is from the Balearic Isles. The first three 
we mention are in cultivation, but no doubt 
Zephrine Drouhin would be the most easily 
procurable. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
3455. Name and Natural Order of 
Plant. 
Will you be good enough to let me know 
through the medium of your valuable 
columns—of which I am a keen reader—the 
natural order, name—technical and common 
—together with some interesting character¬ 
istics, if it has any, of the enclosed. 
(R. S. R., Wales.) 
The natural order of the specimen you 
sent us is Rosaceae. The name is Coton- 
easter bacillaris, which translated means 
the staff-like Cotoneaster. The last name is 
derived from Coioneum, the ancient name 
for the Quince tree, and the term aster means 
similar or like. The botanists, then, con¬ 
sidered that the Cotoneasters bore a re¬ 
semblance to the Quince (Cydonia vulgaris). 
Although the term—the staff-like Cotone¬ 
aster—may be considered a popular or com¬ 
mon name, the plant is really uncommon, 
and, of course, there is no common name 
for it. Several of the species of Cotoneaster 
are much better known outside of botanic 
gardens than C. bacillaris. It is a tall 
growing shrub from Nepaul, and is much 
used for making walking-sticks, hence the 
name bacillaris. The shrub sends up 
strong, straight, staff-like rods from the 
base, or can readily be made to do so by 
cutting out the old growths—say in March, 
and thus encourage strong shoots to come 
up from the base. The foliage and the 
black berries are more or less ornamental. 
If you desire something even more orna¬ 
mental, you should get C. frigida, which is 
equally strong if not a stronger grower, and 
produces large clusters of white flowers, fol¬ 
lowed by scarlet berries in September. 
3456. Pruning: Shrubs. 
I have a border of shrubs that seem to be 
getting too crowded. When is the best time 
to prune them and how should it be done? 
(G. Norris, Worcestershire.) 
It would be necessary for us to know the 
names of some of your shrubs, or at least 
of the more important of them before pre¬ 
cise instructions could be given as to the 
method of pruning them. Certain kinds can 
be more or less hard pruned or even cut 
back in March, including a large number of 
the Spiraeas, such as S. japonica and its ( 
very numerous varieties, S. salicifolia, S. 
Douglasii and S. tomentosa which may be 
pruned back into shape in winter or not 
later than March, as they produce flowers 
on the shoots made during the summer. S. 
confusa, S. Van Houttei, S. acuta and S. 
Thunbergii which flower in spring should 
be pruned after the flowering is over. The 
Deutzias, the Guelder Roses, Viburnum pli- 
catum and Lilacs which flower during the 
early part of the summer upon the wood 
made during the previous season, should 
not be pruned back until'they have finished 
flowering. They can then be immediately 
cut back. The Forsythias should not be 
pruned until they have done flowering, but 
if much pruning has to he given it should 
then be done immediately, so that the plant 
would have time to make flowering wood 
again during the summer. If any part of 
your shrubbery is getting crowded, you 
should, of course, cut back the straggling 
branches so as to confine each to its own 
proper space. Those that flower in spring 
should be pruned after flowering, and those 
that bloom on the young wood made during 
the summer may be pruned at any time now 
between this and the end of March. Those ■ 
are general instructions, but on another oc¬ 
casion we should like you to name the 
shrubs or send pieces when in flower or 
leaf. 
