December 26, 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
797 
Lil moisture. Under these conditions the 
oses would come on more quickly than if 
rowded up with broad-leaved subjects such 
's you mention. 
487. Arrangement of Roses. 
Early in spring I intend to get the fol¬ 
ding Roses, and I want your advice about 
ie arrangement of them. At present I am 
enching the border when the soil is dry 
nough to work properly. Being rather 
eavy I am using rank manure and road 
rit to improve the soil. The sorts are Mrs. 
Laing, Fisher Holmes, Frau Karl 
Iruschki, Bessie Brown, Ulrich Brunner, 
; A. Victoria, Caroline Testout, Dean 
lole, La France, Liberty, Mrs. W. J. 
Irant and Maman Ccchet. The border is 
ft. wide and 20 ft. long. (T. L. W., 
.ssex.) 
The Roses, you’ mention are all much of 
he same habit of growth and general char- 
cter, although they do not all grow with 
he same vigour. They are not sufficient by 
ny means to fill the whole of that border 
□ that you could either plant them in a 
ine along the back of it, or, what would be 
etter, group them together in the middle 
f the border or towards either of the ends 
ccording as you think would be the most 
uitable place to see them best. The point 
3 that if all placed along the bade of the 
erder they might be too near the''fence, if 
here is one. On the other hand it is pos- 
itle you may be able to pass along either 
ide of the border, but you do not state, 
a.pposing you group the Roses together as 
ar as they will go, you could then have 
hree rows across the width of the border, 
f there is a fence behind the border, the 
ow next to it should at least be 1^ ft. away 
10m the fence. From that row to the next 
/ou should have 2 ft. and from the middle 
ow to the front row 1^ ft. That would 
eave a foot of margin along the front of 
he border, so that you could have an edging 
>f something for the first year or two until 
he.Roses grow. If you adopt that method, 
he back line should be planted with Mrs. 
. Laing, Frau Karl Druschki, Ulrich Brun- 
ter and Bessie Brown The middle line 
xruld be planted with Caroline Testout, 
Dean Hole, Mrs. W. J. Grant and Fisher 
Tolmes. You would then have the dwarfer- 
jrowing K. A. Victoria, La France, Liberty 
md Maman Ccchet, for the front line. If 
/ou can get along either side of that border 
/y means of a pathway, then we should have 
m arrangement so that the taller-growing 
loses, would be in the middle and the rest 
T them planted in a line on either side. 
The distances in that case would be. i ft. 
rom the pathway on either side and the 
>ther line in the middle. The lines would 
hen be 2 ft. from one another. The plants 
could also be 2 ft. apart in the lines, but 
/ou should make the lines alternate with 
>ne another so that the Roses will not be 
a lines across the border, but lengthways. 
In this case, Mrs. J. Laing, Frau Karl 
Druschki, Ulrich Brunner and Bessie Brown 
should be planted to form the middle line. 
If this group of Roses is planted in the 
middle of the border you could extend the 
plantation in either direction in after years 
if you find the Roses thrive well with you 
and you desire to have more of them. 
3488. Climbing Roses Too Tall. 
About five years ago I planted some 
climbing Rose trees orf a wall 6 ft. high, 
but they have made 'such growths that they 
ire now too high for the wall, and they 
look rough and untidy. Will it hurt if I 
tut them level with the wall. (E. J. 
jBKEWER, Bucks.) 
The Roses would survive the operation 
j.vell enough, but the results would not be 
satisfactory to you. Climbing Roses very 
rarely give satisfaction if much cut back. 
L he secret of success v ith such types is to 
thin them out, removing weak shoots that 
only produce crowding and occasionally cut¬ 
ting out a stem that is more than, two years 
old provided you have a good young one to 
take its place. A wall of the height you 
mention is net very satisfactory for the culti¬ 
vation of climbing or rampant-growing 
Roses, that is, if you desire them to lie 
close to the wall fer the sake of looking neat 
and tidy. There is a way, however, of grow¬ 
ing them even upon such walls. If there 
are too many on the wall some of the smaller 
ones or those that could best be spared could 
be lifted and planted elsewhere. Then the 
Roses that you admire most should be 
trained either .to the top of the wall and 
then you can bend them horizontally along 
the upper part cf the wall, or take the Rose 
shoots up the wall in a slanting direction, 
spreading them out sufficiently to get in a 
good length of stem upon the wall. At the 
same time the very old stems, could be re¬ 
moved, and also the weak ana useless shoots. 
The remaining ones could then be nailed 
in straight, but in a slanting direction up 
the wall right and left from the middle of 
the bush somewhat after the style of a fan- 
trained Apple tree. The weak, unripened 
tips may be removed. You will get more 
Roses from them when trained in this 
fashion than if you trained them upright, 
and- then cut them level with the top of the 
wall. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
3489. Planting Honeysuckle. 
In a small plantation near by here a lot 
of very dwarf Honeysuckle grows wild and 
I thought of planting some of it to cover 
the rustic porch of our house. I have never 
seen any flowers on it and I want to know 
if it would flower well if cultivated. 
(T. M. C., Lines.) 
The Honeysuckle you mention is not likely 
to flower at" all, so long as it has to grow 
in the shade of trees. Just how long it 
wc-uld take to reach a flowering state when 
brought into cultivation we could not say. 
It would probably take some years to attain 
anything like a free-flowering condition if 
grown from plants that had been under the 
shade of trees for years. A much better plan 
would be to get some of the cultivated 
vaiieties of Honeysuckle, which would much 
mere quicklv get established and bloom 
freely. For instance, there is the Early 
Dutch and the Late Dutch, which are both 
varieties of the common Honeysuckle and 
obtained at a moderate cost from mostly any 
nurseryman who grows trees and shrubs. 
3490. Pruning a Yellow Jasmine. 
On one end of cur house facing the east 
is a large plant of the yellow Jasmine now 
in bloom, but the shoots are so numerous that 
there is no room to nail them up. What is 
the best plan of pruning the plant and how 
much should I cut/ (T. L. W., Essex.) 
As the winter-flowering Jasmine blooms 
so late and early in the year, there is no 
difficulty in the matter of piuning it. All 
you have got to do is to wait until it goes 
out of flower and then prune it into the 
shape that best fits the situation. It may 
be pruned at any time up to the end of 
March and the young shoots that are made 
after that will ripen and plump up their 
flower buds before the flowering season again 
comes round. There need not oe an}' loss of 
a season, therefore, as the proper time for 
pruning is just after the plant has ceased 
to be ornamental for the sake of its flowers. 
You can single out those shoots which are 
too weak or tco old and cut them back 
nearly to the principal stem fiom which they 
arise. Some gardeners would commence bv 
undoing the whole of the nailing and nail 
it up afresh, but if you take the trouble to 
cut and remove only those stems which are 
useless or which produce ciowding it will 
save you some amount of trouble in renailing 
the ciimber. The plan is to get the whole 
of the wall coveied with shoots at a fair 
distance apart and then the shoots that are 
pioduced in summer may be allowed to hang 
loosely until they have finished flowering, 
or if you require them to look more tidy each 
of the long shoots from which you expect 
flowers could be tied in to a nail or upon 
arother shoot, using raffia for the tying. 
This will be sufficient to hold the shoots 
until after flowering time, when the shoots 
can be cut to a bud near the base. Prune, 
and regulate the plant every year, and the 
Jasmine will always appear neat. 
VEGETABLES. 
3491. Purple Broccoli Unsatisfactory. 
Would you please say why my purple 
Broccoli produces only small heads no 
thicker than the thumb, though the plants 
are large and healthy? My soil is too heavy 
for the white winter and spring Broccoli, 
though I can manage different sorts of 
Cauliflower in summer and autumn. (T. 
Groves, Middlesex.) 
By purple Broccoli you no doubt mean 
Purple Sprouting Broccoli. That is a very 
hardy kind which is often used to give a 
supply of sprouts in winter, but it does not 
produce heads like the Cauliflower or the 
white Broccoli, such as you indicate. All 
you have got to do is to cut those shoots as 
far back as they are quite tender and boil 
them with, the small leaves upon them. You 
will find they make good eating, although 
the variety produces no dense heads. The 
colour may not appeal to you like the white 
Broccoli, but so far as the palate is con¬ 
cerned it leaves nothing to be desired. It is 
really the old type of Broccoli, which means 
Sprouts, and is often grown yet to give a 
winter supply in heavy soils and in cold 
parts of the country. 
FRUIT. 
349 2. Dessert Apples for Succession. 
As Apples do well in this district I have 
a fancy that I oould grow a portion, at 
least, of what we require, and they would 
be better quality than many we get in the 
shop, because they are often past their best 
before we get them. Please name half a 
dozen sorts that would be in season over as 
long a period as possible. Thanking you 
in advance. (Dessert Apples, Hereford¬ 
shire. ) 
If you have only one tree of each sort you 
could scarcely expect to keep up a complete 
succession, as some of the varieties may fail 
in certain years. The varieties we select ex¬ 
tend from July or August until May follow¬ 
ing at least. In other words, they keep in 
season between those periods, and we have 
placed them in their order of ripening. 
They are :—Beauty of Bath, Worcester Pear- 
main, King of the Pippins, Cox’s Orange 
Pippin, Court Pendu Plat, and Sturmer 
Pippin. The last keeps till May or June 
if properly stored, and is not fit for eat¬ 
ing until well into spring, when it becomes 
tender. 
3493. Fruit Trees on Grass or Other¬ 
wise. 
Having come into possession of a good 
sized garden, I want to grow some fruit 
trees, and would like to sow down this part 
in grass, as I think it would save a deal of 
work in keeping t.he ground clean. Would 
the grass impoverish the ground cur rob the 
trees in any way, or would you advise any 
other scheme? (Enquirer, Devon.) 
There is a considerable amount of differ¬ 
ence of opinion about having fruit trees on 
grass or otherwise. We have seen them 
doing well under both conditions. It is 
