798 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
December 26, 1908. 
generally admitted, however, that young 
trees make most progress and give bigger 
fruits if planted on ground that is kept 
regularly hoed or cultivated during the 
summer. You speak about saving work in 
keeping the ground cl'earr, but unless you 
keep sheep or cows to eat the grass you 
would have to out it with the scythe, ' and 
that would entail cutting 1 it at least twice a 
year to keep it in any way neat: Grass is 
also considered by some to encourage such 
vermin as winter moth and Apple blossom 
weevil, which find a suitable place for hid¬ 
ing in the undisturbed soil. By planting 
the trees on bare ground and keeping it fre¬ 
quently hoed during the summer thus would 
not only keep down ,the weeds but retain the 
moisture, and this would contribute to size 
of the fruits. Grass must impoverish the 
ground to a certain extent by extracting 
nourishment from it, but it also keeps the 
surface too dry, at all events for young 
trees. There is another point of view from 
which you may look at the question, and that 
is the full and economical occupation of 
the ground with some or other useful crop 
that you may require. The trees must be 
planted a certain distance apart to get satis¬ 
faction from them for any number of years. 
At the same time when the trees are young 
there will be sufficient space for growing 
other kinds of fruit, such as Gooseberries 
and Black or Red Currants, or even Rasp¬ 
berries. Any of these fruits could be 
planted in such a way as to leave the 
ground suitably open for cultivation during 
summer. Ground that is frequently stirred' 
does not take so much time to run over it 
as ground that is left until it gets hard. 
Thus, if you get a planet junior, which is a 
kind of hoe upon wheels, you can get over 
the area much more quickly than by the or¬ 
dinary Dutch or even the draw hoe. Various 
bulbs or flowers could be grown in lines be¬ 
tween the trees, and »it would be an economi¬ 
cal way of using the ground if you find such 
things useful. 
3494. Brambles for a Pergola. 
We are fond of Brambles or Blackberries, 
and think they would fruit well here if 
given good treatment. I understand they do 
well if tied up to stakes like Raspberries, 
What we propose doing is to make a pergola 
in the far end of the garden and plant 
Brambles against the pillars so as to get a 
good length of rod. Do you think they 
would fruit if grown in this way? Should 
they be planted on. the sunny side or partly 
shaded? What variety would you recom¬ 
mend. (Pergola, Herts.) 
There is no reason why Brambles should 
not succeed by the method of culture you 
suggest. They may be trained to pillars or 
wires precisely like Raspberries, but as the 
stems grow longer it would be profitable to 
let them run up as high as they will and 
train them on the pillars of the pergola.. 
As Brambles usually require the whole 
length of the season to ripen their fruits be¬ 
fore the autumn rains spoil them, you should 
plant them on the sunny side. Tihe cut- 
leaved Bramble (Rubus Laciniatus) is a very 
good one for the purpose, and fruits well 
after it is thoroughly established. Like 
Raspberries, it would not fruit the first year, 
and, indeed, the stems ought to be cut down 
within 2 ft. of the ground for the first' season 
to enable the plants to get established and 
throw up young shoots from the base. 
After the plants are well established they 
may be treated much in' the same way as 
Raspberries by cutting out the old'stems 
after -they have fruited and tying .-in the 
young ones to take their -place. The Logan¬ 
berry produces fruits of-large sizeafid- hand¬ 
some -appearance, and could- be grown under 
the same conditions.. You should trench the 
ground, where you intend to plant them, and 
they, will soon get-established, . 
GARDEN ENEMIES. 
3495. American Blight on Apple Trees. 
I would feel much obliged if you would 
let me know how to cure my Apple trees, 
which, are getting in a bad way. I have 
been told it is American, blight. The trees 
are well sheltered with a high hedge, but 
they, do not bear as well as they used to do. 
(R. E. S., Surrey.) 
Hedges in the .neighbourhood of fruit trees 
axe no great help sometimes, but particu¬ 
larly if the trees come close to the hedge. 
The shelter they give under those conditions 
is favourable to the American blight, which 
seems to increase more rapidly when well 
sheltered than in exposed situations. You 
could have no better time than the present 
in trying to subdue the blight, as only a few 
insects may be present in the knots or broken 
places in the bark where they are now shel¬ 
tering. Eggs may also be laid in such situa¬ 
tions. If you have any such rough places 
on the trunk or branches of your trees yon 
should out off all the rough portions of 
bark until you get them perfectly smooth 
without cutting into the live bark more than 
you can help. Then make up a solution of 
Gishurst compound at the rate of 4 oz s. to 
tihe gallon of water. Then with a half-worn 
brush you could scrub every portion of the 
bark where you have been trying to smooth 
the broken pieces. The Gishurst compound 
will serve to destroy the aphides sheltering 
in the cracks. Some trees affected with 
American blight offer shelter for the insects 
upon the roots during winter. You should, 
therefore, uncover the roots close to the 
stems and see if any of the blight is present, 
and if so make up some stroon-g soapsuds and 
well soak the soil about the affected roots. 
You could also put a good dressing of fresh 
wood ashes over the roots before you again 
cover them up. This will destroy the 
aphides and prevent them from crawling up 
the trees when they again come into leaf. 
In summer time keep a sharp look out for 
the first sign of the woolly tufts that indi¬ 
cate the presence of American, blight. You 
cannot then wash the trees in strong insecti¬ 
cide on account of tihe leaves, but as the 
tufts or colonies of aphides are still small 
you should destroy them, by having a jar of 
methylated spirit and a painter's brush, so 
that you can dip the latter in the methylated 
spirit and brush the affected spots. Even if 
you succeed in destroy!n.g the insects upon 
your trees at the present time you must re¬ 
member the possibility of others arriving 
from elsewhere during summer, hence the 
reason for keeping .a sharp look out for the 
first arrivals. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
3496. Growers of Cut Flowers. 
I shall feel much obliged if you can give 
me the names and addresses of any large 
growers of cut flowers, supplying Covent 
Gaiden or the trade. (X. Y.. Haddington¬ 
shire.) 
I he following are the names and addresses 
of some growers of cut flowers for market : — 
Mr. Philip Ladds, Swanley Junction, Kent: 
Messrs. Butler Bros., Burr Farm Nurseries, 
Bexley Heath, Kent; Mr. J Tulley, Rose, 
Nuisery, Enfield Highway, Middlesex; Mr. 
Milton Hutchings, Field Heath Nurseries, 
Hillingdon, Uxbridge, Middlesex; Messrs. 
Cragg, Harrison and Cragg, Merrivale Nur¬ 
series, Heston, Hounslow, Middlesex; Mr. 
F S. Groundsie, Heatherside Nurserv, Dart- 
ford Heath, Kent;. Mr. G. Pnckett, St. Ann’s 
Road-. South Tottenham, Middlesex. 
-— 
The word “verbena ” meant originally 
“a sacred bough.” 
NAMES OF PLANTS. 
(D T.) 1, Quercus Ilex or Holly Oak, 1 
a Holly; 2, Berberis Aquifolium or.’y 
honia ; 3, Prunus lusitanica or Portus 
Laurel; 4, Erica carnea. 
(R. D. Henderson) 1, Abutilon megaj 
tamicum; 2, Erica gracilis nivea; 3, Ptei 
Wimsettii; 4, Lomaria gibba. 
(-C. W.) 1, Snow in Summer (Cerastiv 
tomentosum; 2, Lamb’s Tongue (Stach 
lanata); 3, Euon}'mus japomeus aureus. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVEI 
Sutton and Sons, Reading, England 
Sutton’s Amateur’s Guide ir. Horticultu 
for 1909. 
Horace J. Wright, Dault Road, Wand 
worth, London, S.W.—Catalogue of Swe 
Peas, Vegetables and Flower Seeds, 1908. 
TRADE NOTICE, 
John K. King and Sons’ Catalogue. 
We are reminded of the “time for seed 
by the receipt of the “Manual of Garde 
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Cultural Directions for Amateur and Pr 
fessional Gardeners,” from Messrs. Jot 
K. King and Sons, Seed Growers of H 
Majesty the King, Coggeshall, Essex; ai 
Reading, Berks. Those who think this 
a mere seed catalogue will be greatlv mi 
taken, for it is one of the most practic. 
books that has come under our node 
The printing is excellent, and nothir 
could be more effective than its gener, 
arrangement. The cultural notes on veg 
table and flower growing are remarkab 
practical, while an article on " Inse 
Pests” deserves careful perusal. There 
also an article on “French Gardening 
which is one of considerable intere: 
There are no less than 106 splendid illu 
trations, principally from photographs, i: 
eluding those of Messrs. John K. Kin 
and Sons’ large Seed Farms, with fielt 
of their Giant Flowered Sweet Peas. T 1 
Book may be had for 3d. in stamps, whic 
only covers the cost of postage, and v 
recommend all our readers interested i 
gardening to send to Messrs. John K. Kir 
and Sons, Coggeshall, Essex, or Readini 
Berks., for a copy of it. 
MOST EASTERLY NURSERY 
For Hardy Stuff bound to thrive. FOREST TREI 
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Yew, Box, Holly, 1 ft., 2/6 doz., 12/6 100. 
Laurel Rotundifolia (hardiest), large evergreeu leav 
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Poplars,.- ii er-lenf or Black Italian ; unequalled for ra| 
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Elms, Sycamore, Limes, Chestnut, Birch, Ash, 4 h 
ft., 3(6 doz., 15/- 100 ; 5 to 6 ft., 5/6 doz. 
Larch Fir (fastest-growing Fir), 2 ft., 1/6 doz., 6 /-100,4 
1,000 ; 3 ft., 2/- doz., 8 /-100 ; 4 It., 3/- doz., 15/- 100. 
Spruce Flr.lJ ft., 2/- doz., 10/- 100 ; 2 ft., 2 6 doz., 15/-1 
Xmas Trees, specially selected, good shape, 2 ft, 3/- dc 
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12 8-in., 20 6-in., 505-in., 50 4-in., 50 3-in-, packed in ora 
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