January 30, 1909. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
59 
Liliums in Pots. 
L'ew bulbous plants are more appre- 
c ted than Lilies, and of the innumer- 
a.e varieties grown the following can be 
rommended as some of the best for pot 
cture:—Lilium auratum, L. Harrisii, L. 
sxiosum, L. Brownii, L. candidum, L. 
Mpomene, L. Henryii, L. Kraetzeri, L. 
ligiflorum and L. giganteum. Pur- 
cised Lily bulbs must not be allowed to 
nain in’the package or be exposed to 
f air for any length of time before being 
p ted, or they will become dry and 
nhered, and lose much of their .strength 
al vitality. The bulbs should either be 
pted immediately they are received, or 
b three parts buried in shallow boxes of 
cist leaf-soil and sand, and be stood on 
a;helf in a cool greenhouse or frame 
>;:il they can be potted, this treatment 
. ping them in good condition. 
V point to be borne in mind is that 
Lies are divided into two groups, 
timely, varieties that root from the base 
<j the bulb only, and those that emit 
flits from the stem just above the bulb 
well as from below. Bulbs of the 
f mer type may be potted in the usual 
'y, as shown in Fig. 1 herewith, but 
tise belonging to the latter class must 
(her be potted low down in deep pots 
: shown in Fig. 2, or be repotted as the 
sm roots are produced, an excellent 
rnpost for pot Lilies being four parts 
t fy loam, two parts fibrous peat, one 
] rt dried decayed cow manure, and one 
] rt leaf-mould, a little coarse sand or 
J id grit also being advisable if the peat 
< itains very little sand. 
mx or seven inch pots are usually large 
enough for one bulb, whilst a twelve inch 
pot will accommodate three or four bulbs. 
Well drain the pots with crocks and a 
layer of rough compost or fairly fresh 
leaves, and place some coarse sand 
around the base of each bulb, and also 
around the crown, as indicated in Figs. 
1 and 2-, to prevent decay and assist root¬ 
ing. The compost should be nicely moist 
so that the water will not be required 
until growth commences, and it must not 
be made too firm either round or on top 
of the bulbs. Cover each pot of bulbs 
with an inverted pot, and either plunge in 
ashes out of doors in a similar manner 
to Hyacinths, or stand the pots in a cold 
frame. 
When growth has freely commenced the 
plants should be graduallv exposed to the 
light, and be transferred to a greenhouse 
with a temperature of from forty-five to 
fifty-five degrees, or if early flowers are 
required, they may be subjected to a 
forcing temperature of from sixty to 
seventv-five degrees. As soon as the stem 
roots are about half an inch in length, 
as at A in Fig. 3, the bulbs must either 
be repotted or top-dressed, as the case 
may be, as at B, with rich compost of a 
rather lumpy nature. L T ntil the pots are 
well filled with roots the bulbs require 
very little water, but when in full growth 
ample quantities should be given, to¬ 
gether with occasional applications of 
weak liquid manure and artificial fer¬ 
tilisers, and to ensure sturdy healthy 
growth plenty of light, air and sunshine 
is essential. 
When the plants have finished flower¬ 
ing, they should be stood outside in the 
open air, the seed pods be cut off, and 
water be gradually withheld, and when 
the bulbs have been dried off, the pots 
should be. laid on their sides. Liliums 
may be propagated by planting the off¬ 
sets that are produced on the bulbs in the 
manner shown in Fig. 4. These should 
be removed as in Fig. 6, and be planted 
in a pan of sandy soil as Fig. 7, and in a 
few years’ time they will develop into 
flowering bulbs. Scales detached from 
the bulbs as shown in Fig. 5 may also be 
inserted in a pan of sandy soil, as shown 
in Fig.8, and these in time will produce 
useful flowering bulbs. 
ORTUS. 
-*+*- 
Wallflowers in Pots. 
Everybody loves these old-fashioned 
sweet-scented flowers, but not very many 
grow them in pots, for early bloom. I 
do not know the reason for this neglect, 
as there is really very little trouble in 
having fine sturdy plants that will give 
a fine display some weeks in advance of 
the outdoor plantations. The plants are 
treated as if for bedding purposes until 
autumn, when they are lifted with good 
balls of earth and placed in pots. A 
good soaking of water is given, and the 
plants are stood under a north wall until 
established. Afterwards place them in a 
cold frame, and give abundance of air, 
as a damp stuffy atmosphere causes the 
leaves, and sometimes the shoots, to 
damp off. It is not too late even yet to 
lift a few plants for trial, potting firmly 
and placing them in a cool greenhouse, 
giving all light available, and in due time 
a fine display is assured. All the good 
single varieties are. suitable, while the 
double German section gives far better re¬ 
sults in pots than if planted out of doors. 
After growth is started, a slight top-dres¬ 
sing of Thomson’s manure is a great help 
to the plants. 
C. Blair. 
Preston House, 
Linlithgow. 
-- 
Apple Encore. 
The above is one of the new 
Apples raised by the famous pomo- 
logist, Mr. Charles Ross, who 
has recently retired from gardening. 
It is the result of crossing Warner’s King 
with Northern Greening. The Apple is 
very' large, ovate, yellow, and heavily 
shaded, streaked and mottled with red on 
the sunny side. Hitherto it has not been 
so highly coloured as it was during the 
past autumn. The eye is half closed in 
a deep wrinkled cavity. The stalk is 
short, stout and deeply inserted in a 
rounded cavity. It is a cooking Apple, 
and one of the latest keepers, remaining 
good till June if properly stored. The 
tree is a strong grower and free bearen 
It had previously received an Award of 
Merit from the R.H.S., and when brought 
to the meeting on the 22nd ult. by Messrs. 
J. Clieal and Sons, Crawley, Sussex, it 
was accorded a First Class Certificate. It 
is a very handsome Apple, and judging 
from its qualities, will become a popular 
Apple in the future. 
