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Address: Tlie Editor, The Gardening 
World, 37 and 38, Shoe Lane, London, E.C. 
The Editor invites enquiries, which ma\ 
cover any branch of gardening. Questions 
should be as brief as -possible and written on 
qne side of the paper only; a separate sheet 
of paper should be used for each question. 
Replies cannot be sent by post. 
Garden Plans .—Gardeners who would make 
the best use of this column are invited to 
prepare and forward to us a rough outline 
drawing or plan of their gardens, indicating 
the position of beds and lawns, the charac- 
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. 
3593. Grafting Oranges. 
In my greenhouse here I have got some 
Orange trees which just lately have been 
grafted with Lemons and Citrons, and as 
soon as they make young growth they all 
fall off, and they are quite fresh when they 
do so. I have them in heat between 50 de¬ 
grees and 60 degrees, with some Ferns which 
I think ought to suit them very well. They 
were taken to be grafted last November 
twelve months ago. Do you think it is the 
fault of the grafting? (A. D., Middlesex.) 
Without inspecting the grafting it would 
be difficult to say whether the failure was 
due to that or not. There are several ways 
of grafting, and if the graft is not so large 
as the stock the bark of the two should fit on 
one side at least. We are inclined to think 
that the failure was owing to the low tem¬ 
perature of the house in which you have 
been keeping them. They should not have 
taken such a length of time to form a good 
union if they had been put in the proper 
amount of heat when the graft was executed. 
There are two methods of grafting at least, 
one being termed crown grafting, and in 
that case the top of the stock is cut across 
and then a wedge-shaped groove taken out 
down the centre of it. The graft is then 
cut with a wedge-shaped point, and fitted in 
to this cut as exactly as possible. At least 
one side of the bark on the graft should fit 
that of the stock, but if both edges fit so 
much the better. The other method is to cut 
the stock so that it will have a wedge-shaped 
top. The graft is then cut down the centre 
so as to make a slit which will just fit on 
the top of the stock like a saddle. This is 
termed saddle grafting. The ordinary whip 
grafting, with or without a tongue, is also 
sometimes employed. The grafting might 
be done when the stock is just commencing 
to grow, and that should give an impetus to 
the graft which should not be so far ad¬ 
vanced. Tie up the union firmly, and cover 
it with some fine moss. Then place the 
grafted stock in a case with a bottom heat of 
75 degrees, and certainly not less than 60 
degrees to 65 degrees. This will make the 
roots of the stock active, and as the growth 
proceeds a union will form. Oranges mav 
also be rooted from cuttings taken at any 
time except when the plants are growing. 
They should have a bottom heat of 75 de¬ 
grees, and be placed in a glass case to re¬ 
tain the moisture about the foliage until 
roots have been formed. 
ter and height of the fence or wall; posi¬ 
tion of vegetable garden, orchard, etc. The 
north side of the garden and any over¬ 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It 
should also be stated whether the garden is 
flat or on a declivity, and all large trees 
should be marked. Pariiculars of the na¬ 
ture of the soil will also help us to give 
satisfactory replies. When such plans are 
received they will be carefully filed, with 
the name and address of the sender, and 
will be consulted by the Editor whenever an 
enquiry is sent. 
3594. Treatment of Swainsonia. 
What is the best way to treat Swainsonia ? 
I have two plants in 4 in. pots, with two 
shoots 2 ft. long which I raised last year 
from seeds. I wonder if I could use them 
for the end of a greenhouse on one side of 
the door. It would be on a stage at the 
front of the house. The space would be 
about 25 ft. across and a yard or so at the 
highest point from the stage to the glass. 
Do they flower on the previous year’s 
growth? (.Regular Reader, Notts.) 
We doubt very much whether your Swain- 
sondas will flower this year if only raised 
from seeds, last year. They flower best 
when about 6 ft. high. We are not certain 
that you will be very successful in flowering 
them on a stage 3 ft. high, although it is 
possible that you may get a fair proportion 
of flowers by shortening the stems after they 
have finished growing, or at any time in 
winter before they commence making their 
growth. They flower on the young shoots 
that are made during the summer. As the 
plant increases in size you will have to give 
it an increasingly larger size of pot, using 
a compost of equal proportions of fibrous 
loam and peat with about one-sixth of sand 
well incorporated. Pot quite firmly. The 
operation may be performed in spring just 
as the plants are commencing to make fresh 
growth. The position by the greenhouse 
door would answer well provided the plants 
are well lighted, which we think they should 
be. They should also enjoy plenty of ven¬ 
tilation during the summer time, as the 
plant is a cool greenhouse subject. We 
think you could improve your chances of 
getting good flowers by having some wires 
on the roof of the house, to which you could 
train the stems in at full length. You 
would then reduce the matter to a question of 
thinning in early spring, after the shoots 
get in any way crowded. It may be the 
third or fourth season before it flowers well, 
but it all depends upon your successful treat¬ 
ment. If it is the commonly cultivated 
species the true name is Swainsonia coron- 
illifolia, although it has several other 
names. 
FRAMES. 
3595. Increasing: Echeverias. 
1 have a fine boxful of Echeveria that I 
used as an edging last year, and they did so 
well that I would like to increase them. 
How is this done? At present they are in 
February 6, 1909; 
a cold frame and look healthy. (Echeveria 
G lamorganshire.) 
Occasionally seeds would be ripened, an 
you could raise plants in that way. Th 
seeds are very small, however, and as th 
fleshy young plants would be liable to dam 
in dull, dark weather, you should not so\i 
them before April. The usual method, how | 
ever, of increasing the plant is to pull oh 
the offsets and place them in a shallow bo: 
of light sandy .soil to form roots by plant 
ing-out time. These offsets could even b 
pulled off at the end of May when beddin: 
out is being done, and planted straight awa- 
where you intend to plant them. The' 
should not be mixed with the large ones, bu , 
be planted by themselves. If you were , 
skilful propagator possibly you could als< 
raise them from leaves by taking off th< 
full}' grown leaves completely to the base 
and lay them on a pan of sandy soil whicl 
should just be kept moist, aDd little plant- 
may be formed at the base of each leaf 
Wooden pegs might be employed to fix the 
leaves on the soil until roots are produced 
The sand should just be kept moist. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
3596. How to grow Winter Heliotrope. 
I should be pleased if you would give me 
some information about the plants mentioned 
in the enclosed cutting. (R. A. L., Essex.) 
The Winter Heliotrope is correctly named 
Petasites fragrans, and it would not be quite 
correct to call it Tussilago fragrans in the 
light of present day knowledge. The 
flowers do not differ very much structurally, 
but sometimes the flowers may be all male 
and others all female, but Petasites can 
readily be distinguished by the large num¬ 
ber of flower heads it produces on a stem. 
Tussilago has only one. You may plant it 
in good soil in any part of the garden, bu: 
as it thrives well in shade, you could select I 
a shady position for it, and some shelter will 
be gained thereby, which will be convenient 
to the plant as it blooms in winter during ( 
December and January. Aponogeton dis- 
tachyon is more correctly named Cape. Pond i 
Weed than Winter Hawthorn. In mild win- | 
ters the plant continues in bloom, but the : 
summer season is really the time when it 
flowers the best. If you have a stream run¬ 
ning through your garden or a pond in it, 
you can either plant it in the bottom on 
some soil, or plant it in a pot and stand 
the pot below the water, as the leaves of the 
plant should float. Even if you have not | 
this convenience you can grow the plant the 
same way as Water Lilies are often grown, 
in tubs consisting of barrels sawn in half 
with some soil in the bottom, and then kept 
filled with clean water. The flowers smell 
of Hawthorn and are white. They come 
above the water. 
ROSES. 
3597. Growing Roses in Vases. 
I have a number of terra-cotta vases in 
which I grow Fuchsias and Geraniums in 
summer and would like a change. Could I 
glow any kinds of Roses in these vases that 
are 12 in. wide and deep? (Experiment, 
Cambs.) 
Roses may be grown in those vases, pro¬ 
vided they are of moderate growth. Very 
strong growing Roses would require larger 
tubs. You may try such varieties as Lady 
Battersea, Mme. Pernet Ducher, Fabvier, 
Petit Constant, Gloire des Polyantha, and 
the old Blush Monthly. All of these are 
pretty, free flowering, of dwarf habit, and 
branching. 
35 98. How to Prune Roses. 
As a reader of tout valuable paper 1 
should like to ask you, if possible, to give 
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