9 ° 
TUB GARDENING WORLD 
February 6, 1909. 
front line are Lady Battersea (cherry-crim¬ 
son), Liberty (crimson), Mrs. W. J. Grant 
(rose-pink), Mme. Pernet Ducher (canary- 
yellow), Princesse de Sagan (cherry-red), 
Camoens (glowing rose), and Mme. Ravary 
(orange-yellow). All of these are H.T.’s 
except Princesse de Sagan, a Tea Rose. We 
have named the colours of the seven we have 
added in order that you may be able to 
arrange them to agree with the pillars in 
the back row. The twelve unnamed varieties 
are unfortunate for permanent planting, un¬ 
less they turn out to be good sorts. At the 
same time, some of them may be too tall for 
the front row. We presume that you are 
going to trench the border before you com¬ 
mence planting. It should be trenched 2 ft. 
to 2^ ft. deep, and well manured at the same 
time. We are aware that Roses do well in 
your district. 
3601. Rose Trees not Producing any 
Roses. 
I planted a Rose tree Marchioness of Lon¬ 
donderry last April, and was surprised to 
get no Roses from it. It is planted on a 
sandy border, and had a good supply of 
water through the summer. Could you sug¬ 
gest anything I could do to it ? I may men¬ 
tion it was cut back to about t; in. or 6 in. 
except for one or two stems, which were left 
about 1 ft. Your advice would oblige. (G. 
F., Yorks.) 
Marchioness of Londonderry is a H.P., but 
not a very free flowering one. It is really 
only an exhibitor's Rose. It grows 
vigorously, and requires some time to get 
established before it flowers freely. It 
should, however, flower during the coming 
summer. It was too late in being planted to 
expect much from it during the first year. 
During the third or fourth week in March 
you may prune it, cutting back the weaker 
shoots to six eyes and the stronger ones to 
eight eyes. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
3602. Distinguishing Features of Aza¬ 
leas. 
What are the distinguishing features of 
the Azaleas which are termed mollis, Ghent 
and rustica? (Regular Reader, Notts.) 
Azalea mollis is correctly named Rhodo¬ 
dendron sinense, and is distinguished from 
the Indian Azalea by being deciduous and 
having very large flowers of some shade of 
orange, coppery yellow or dark and pale 
j^ellow. The varieties are fairly hardy. 
Ghent Azaleas are hybrids of the hard}r 
deciduous American Azaleas, such as R. 
nudiflorum, R. calendulaceum, R. viscosum 
and R. flavum, from the Caucasus and the 
Levant. They are, in short, hardy Azaleas 
of our shrubberies that lose their leaves in 
winter. They have been called Ghent Aza¬ 
leas because the hybrids have mostly been 
raised by the growers at Ghent. Azalea rus¬ 
tica is a small-flowered form of R. sinense 
with deciduous leaves —that is, which fall 
away in winter. Mollis and rustica are 
more used for forcing and for greenhouse 
culture than for growing in the open, though 
they are both hardy, and may be grown in 
the shrubbery. 
3603. Evergreen Climbers for Arch. 
We erected a large trellis-work arch to 
the entrance of one of our public walks, 
12 ft. span, 15 ft. high, 2 ft. front to back at 
least. There is no brick-work. It is at the 
entrance across the road. I have ordered, 
and have had them in, from Smith, Wor¬ 
cester, four Clematises and two rambler 
Roses. I should like some evergreen plants 
to take the nakedness off in winter. I should 
like to make it a joy for ever and something 
to clothe it soon. Will you kindly give me 
the names of a few nice, pretty plants that 
you can recommend? One side faces south, 
the other north. (Tomas, Pembrokeshire.) 
YVe should have no difficulty in recom¬ 
mending climbers that would suit your pur¬ 
pose. Two of the best for your district, we 
consider, would be the Fiery Thorn (Cratae¬ 
gus Pyracantha Lelandi), which is nearly 
evergreen and is covered with berries until 
the birds destroy them, though they are not 
very greedy upon this type ; the other is Es¬ 
callonia macrantha, which is a handsome 
evergreen with rose-coloured flowers, and 
does well anywhere near the sea. Garrya 
elliptica has evergreen leaves and flowers in 
winter, but we do not think it would grow 
so fast as the two already named. The white 
Jasmine (Jasminum officinale) loses its leaves 
in winter, but the shoots are evergreen. It 
is rather a rampant grower, and would be 
likely to appropriate too much of the space 
which should be occupied by Clematis and 
rambler Roses. You could, however, regu¬ 
late these evergreens by pruning in summer. 
The winter-flowering Jasmine would be less 
rampant, but possibly it would be too ex¬ 
posed to flower well in winter. 
3604. Name of Escallonia. 
Some time ago I passed Langland Bay and 
saw some splendid trees, which' I was told 
were Escallonia. Could you give me the full 
name of them, and say whether they would 
be hardy here? Our district is more smoky, 
but probably quite as mild. (Echeveria, 
Glamorgan.) 
It is quite possible that the trees you saw 
were Escallonia macrantha, which does well 
in various situations in proximity to the 
sea, more especially along the south-western 
coast of England and Wales. We have no 
doubt it would prove quite as hardy with 
you as at Langland Bay. The smoke will 
not be very detrimental to it, because the 
leaves are as smooth as a Holly. Conse¬ 
quently the filth in the atmosphere does not 
hold on after a good shower. 
VEGETABLES. 
3605. Peas and Mildew. 
Last year my Peas got badly attacked with 
mildew, and I was told it was owing to. the 
drought. Can this be prevented next sum¬ 
mer? (J. C., Beds.) 
If you take the trouble to trench and 
manure the soil of your garden, so as to 
get a good depth of loose and fertile material, 
the Peas will make better growth and be 
less liable to mildew, even in a hot season. 
Shallow digging is largely responsible for 
mildew in garden Peas, especially in light 
soils and in dry seasons. Besides trenching 
and manuring at the present time, when you 
are about to sow the seeds you should take 
out a trench 12 in. to 18 in. deep, put some 
good manure in it, mix it with soil in the 
trench, then put 3 in. or 4 in. of soil on the 
top of that and sow the seeds. The trench 
need not be entirely filled up, but left some¬ 
what hollow, so that any rain which may 
fall will run into the trench instead of away 
from it. Watering can also be given with 
great advantage, and if you cover the sur¬ 
face of the ground with littery manure be¬ 
fore watering, so much the better. 
FRUIT. 
3606. Apple Tree not Bearing Fruit. 
I should like your advice as to what I 
could do with an Apple tree which last 
summer had neither bloom nor fruit. The 
year previous it grew only four. During 
the latter part of summer, after the time for 
blooming, the green fly was on the leaves in 
great numbers. This autumn I took it up 
and re,planted, but could not detect any¬ 
thing wrong with the? roots. Could it be 
washed with something during the winter 
months to any advantage? (G. F., Yorks.) 
Perhaps ycur tree required root-pruning, 
and the lifting which you accomplished in 
autumn would answer this purpose. Some 
trees do not bloom every j r ear, and can onl 
produce heavy or good crops at intervals 0 
two or five years, according to the variety 
It may have been that the soil was poor, ani 
in that case a good dressing of cow manur 
at the end of Mayr would be an advantage 
Artificial manures that would prove suitabl 
would be some of the general manures ad : 
vertised in our pages. Not knowing the cii 
cumstances of the case, we make these sug 
gestions. The presence of green fly upoi 
tne tree was very detrimental to the healtl 
of the same in proportion to the amount 0. 
foliage or young leaves which the aphide 
damaged. In any case, you should endeavou- 
to destroy them when they first make theii 
appearance. Do not wait until the leave! 
are getting curled or covered with black ex 
crement, as the damage is then done. Ii 
would be easier to destroy them in the early 
stages, but washing the tree with strops 
soapy water, driven with some force agaiaft 
the tree, would do some good; or anotha 
plan would be to syringe the tree thoroughly 
with the soapsuds in which some tobacco- 
water had been used. Then, next morning 
you could apply the garden engine or the 
syringe with clean water, to wash down t® 
fly that have oeen sickened by the insecticide | 
the previous' day. If the leaves are curlec 
in any way, it may be necessary to syringe 
them for the purpose of wetting them. Then; 
get tobacco powder and dust it in amongst 
the leaves by the hand or by a powder dis¬ 
tributor. We think your tree will be more) 
inclined to flower next year, but if there 
are no flower buds on it, you will have tc 5 
wait another year to get the results of the 
transplanting, which inclines the tree tc 
grow more slowly and to produce flower 
buds. For a wash, see next week. 
3607. Length of Apple Tree Shoots to 
Leave. 
Am I right in presuming that the branches 
of pyramid Apples, also bush trees, should 
be about r8 in. to 20 in. apart or there¬ 
abouts at their extremities—that is, if they 
were planted ro ft. or r2 ft. apart, and they 
have grown out to their allotted space? 
(Regular Reader, Notts.) 
If they have reached their allotted space, 
they should then be held in check. It would 
be quite useless to allow the branches of 
neighbouring trees to interlace with one an¬ 
other. Besides the shading of the tree, the 
crowding would also encourage and shelter 
various insect pests. The leading shoots 
must be stopped within a bud or two of the 
base if they have reached the limits that yc* 
can afford them. If this is done towards the 
end of July or in August, that will have-* 
the effect of encouraging the growth of flower 
buds and checking the- rampant and useless 
shoots. It will also allow the light better 
to fall upon the fruits you may have 'on the 
trees. In case of varieties producing flower 
buds at the end of shoots you could leave 
the shoots until the fruits have been gathered 
and then cut them back to the base. 
3608. Gritty Pears. 
I have a tree of Beurre Diel Pear and an¬ 
other unnamed one, which are very full of 
grit even when ripe. Some of them were 
also very much cracked. Can you say what 
this was owing to, and how I can prevent it, 
if possible? (J. Webb, Beds.) 
Some varieties of Pear are liable to be 
gritty in poor or dry soils, or when old and 
neglected. Beurre Diel is naturally in¬ 
clined this way, but it should be agreeable 
eating if the pieces of grit are not large. 
You say some of them were cracked, so that 
in all probability they were damaged by the 
fungus which causes scab on Pears. When 
the trees are attacked early in the season, the 
fruits do not grow regularly, but may be 
more or less indented where attacked by the 
fungus in their early stages. The remedy - 
for the first-named causes would be good cul¬ 
tivation and manuring. The remedy for the- 
