ioS 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
February 13, 1909. 
ing and strong-growing for a town garden? 
(A. M. Webb, Middlesex.) 
No. 1 is crimson, shaded scarlet, and fra¬ 
grant ; No. 2 is scarlet-crimson, best in a 
cool season, but not particularly fragrant; 
No. 3 is also crimson, good in autumn and 
fragrant; No. 4 is not fragrant and not very 
suitable for a town garden. We should prefer 
Ards Pillar, which is velvety-crimson, and 
one of the best pillar Roses, but not very fra¬ 
grant. All would grow with you, we have 
no doubt, but if any were to be rejected, it 
would be No. 4. The others are strong-grow¬ 
ing and free-flowering. Dwarf, fragrant 
and crimson Roses are Alfred Colomb, Marie 
Baumann and General Jacqueminot. The 
last-named is, perhaps, the freest-flowering 
of the three, but all are distinctly and 
strongly fragrant. 
3624. Putting Slates below Roses. 
I take in The Gardening World every 
week. I should be much obliged if you 
would inform me upon the following :—I 
am putting some Rose trees in shortly, and 
have been advised to put a piece of slate at 
the bottom of the hole I am making to pre¬ 
vent the roots going too deep. Is this ad¬ 
visable, as I feel very doubtful about it ? 
(T. G. Blake, Essex.) 
We see no object in putting slates below 
Roses; nor, indeed, anything. It is an an¬ 
tiquated custom. The roots will go over 
the edges of the slate and then take a down¬ 
ward course if they have any inclination to 
do so. The slate would also prevent the 
moisture from rising directly to the roots in 
summer, ancf thus tend to keep the Roses un¬ 
duly dry. The proper way is to trench the 
ground 2^ ft. deep and let them go down if 
they care to. A mulching bn the top during 
summer would do more to keep the roots near 
the surface than by putting slates beneath 
the plants. It is our opinion that if the roots 
were kept unduly, dry by means of slates 
they would cease growing in July, and prob¬ 
ably would not bloom in the autumn, even 
if inclined to do so when grown under mere 
natural conditions. 
3625. When to Disbud Roses. 
I thank you for information re Clematis. 
I am sorry I did not give you a list of my 
Roses, but will do so now on the other side 
of this card. (A. G. Henderson, Stafford.) 
_ We have arranged your Roses in the sec¬ 
tions to which they belong, and here repro¬ 
duce them, so that “you can refer no them 
when we speak of treatment required by any 
particular class or variety. Hybrid Per- 
petuals in your list are Mrs. R. G. Sharman 
Crawford, A. Colomb, Frau Carl Druschki, 
Merveille de Lyon, Mrs. J. Laing, Xavier 
Olibo and Mrs. F. W. Sanford. Hybrid 
Tea Roses in your list are Killarney, La 
France, Robert Scott, Ards Pillar, Gruss an 
Teplitz, Marjorie, Captain Christie, Papa 
Lambert, Caroline Testout, Exquisite, 
Gladys Harkness and Betty. A number of 
them are suitable as climbers, or for cover¬ 
ing pillars, namely, Ards Pillar and Gruss 
an Teplitz, while Gloire de Dijon and Mme. 
Berard are best on walls. The Tea Roses 
you have are Souvenir de P. Notting, Mme. 
Berard, Princess Beatrice and Gloire de Di¬ 
jon. Dorothy Perkins is a Wichuraiana 
Rose, and suitable. for pillars, fences and 
trellises. W. A. Richardson is a Noisette 
Rose which should be grown as a climber or 
as a standard, and merely thinned out, but 
not pruned in the usual sense of the term. 
Duke of York being a China Rose of mode¬ 
rate growth, should be pruned back with¬ 
in 4 in. or 6 in. of the base of the shoots. 
With regard to your question on the subject 
of disbudding, we should say that that is 
only necessary in the case of Roses intended 
for exhibition. None of the climbers or Noi¬ 
settes in your list need be disbudded. As to 
the time concerning which disbudding can. 
best be done, that will determine itself. Ex¬ 
amine your Roses frequently when they are 
advancing to the blooming stage, and in the 
case of those you wish to exhibit remove the 
side buds as soon as you can lay hold of 
them between the finger and thumb without 
injuring the terminal bud, which is always 
the best one for exhibition, unless it has got 
accidentally damaged or injured by insects. 
In any case it is the one to retain for exhi¬ 
bition. The Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid 
Teas and dwarf Tea Roses are those most 
likely to give you exhibition blooms. 
3626. Tall Single Roses. 
Would you please name about half a dozen 
tall-growing, single Roses of different 
colours that I could grow on long stakes on 
each side of the walk down the middle of the 
garden. How should I prune them at plant¬ 
ing time? (W. Howson, Middlesex.) 
Tall-growing single Roses that would meet 
3'our case are Macrantha (flesh), Hiawatha 
(crimson), Moschata alba (white), Blush 
Rambler (blush), Carmine Pillar (carmine), 
and Jersey Beauty (pale yellow, finally be¬ 
coming almost white). When planting these 
it would be well to cut them back to 2 ft. 
from the ground, if tall, and if short, you 
could even cut them to 18 in. with advan¬ 
tage. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
3627. Flowering Climbers for Wire 
Arch. 
I wish to fix a wire arch over a garden 
gate which faces south-west, but gets a good 
deal of wind. I want to plant two climbing 
flowering trees to cover it. Would you 
kindly name one or two suitable for this? 
As it is twelve miles from town, we get little 
'or no smoke. The flowers should not be too 
tempting to passers-by', as it is close to a 
quiet road. Also, please say when would be 
the best, time to plant them. The garden is 
only a small one. (T. H. S., Yorks.) 
Two flowering plants that would succeed 
with you and not be too tempting to passers- 
by are Jasminum officinale, the white- 
flowered, sweet-scented Jasmine, and the 
climbing Knotweed (Polygonum baldschu- 
anicum), with small pinkish-white flowers, 
produced, in great profusion. The leaves of 
the Jasmine are so fine that the wind would 
not get much hold upon them. A second se¬ 
lection would be the Early Dutch and Late 
Dutch Honeysuckles, which should succeed 
if the .wind is not too great — that is, if the 
place is not really wind-swept owing to the 
situation of the houses or other obstructions 
which cause the wind to get concentrated in 
certain positions. There is also a very hand¬ 
some climber named Aristolochia Sipho, with 
large, heart-shaped leaves and inconspicuous 
flowers. Usually only the green leaves will 
be present, but a well-grown climber of this 
is very handsome. We do not think it would 
do.well if the place is wind-swept, otherwise 
it is perfectly hardy. Any of these may be 
planted at once. Take care to have large 
holes taken out and the soil loosened well 
down below, as this will give the climbers 
a good start and the arch will be all the 
sooner covered. 
FRUIT. 
3628. Wash for Apple Trees. 
During the latter part of summer, after 
the time for blooming, the green fly was on 
the leaves of my Apple trees in great num¬ 
bers.. Gould if be washed with something 
during the winter months to any advantage’ 
(G. F., Yorks.) 0 ‘ 
The present is a good time, to use caustic 
alkali wash upon your trees, as it will kill 
the insect eggs upon the trees, as well as 
destroy moss and lichen, which would serve 
as shelter. The soda and potash spray-fluid 
would be the best to use. This consists of 
1 lb. of caustic soda (70 per cent, strength), 
1 lb. of carbonate of potash (80 per cent! 
strength), L lb. of soft soap, and make the 
whole up to ten gallons with water. The 
method of preparing it is to get a tub or 
The Best is 
always the 
Cheapest. 
Some Reasons why Vi-Cocoa Relieves 
Exhaustion amt Creates Energy. 
The best is always the cheapest in 
the end, and Dr. Tibbies’ Vi-Cocoa 
is indeed both best and cheapest. 
Ordinary cocoas do not possess its 
great natural nutrient properties, and 
therefore are to it as water is to wine. 
As a regular family beverage, Vi- 
Cocoa is infinitely preferable to tea 
and coffee, which produce nervous 
irritation, and is far and away 
superior to the brain-destroying 
alcohol. 
There is no more nourishing food 
beverage than Dr. 
Tibbies’ Vi-Cocoa, 
which, by promoting 
the animal heat, will 
keep the body in a 
healthy glow. You 
have not yet tried Vi-Cocoa. Why 
not try it to-day ? Every grocer 
sells it in 6d. packets, and gd. and 
is. 6d. tins. 
You can try it free of expense. 
Write to Vi-Cocoa, 12, Henry Street, 
London, W.C., for a dainty sample 
tin of Dr. Tibbies’ Vi-Cocoa free 
and post paid. It is a plain, honest, 
and straightforward offer. It is done 
to introduce the merits of Vi-Cocoa 
into every home. 
barrel capable of holding 10 gallons. Dis¬ 
solve the soda and potash in a little water, 
then dissolve the soap in hot wa^or, and add 
it to the rest. Then add water to make up 
■to 10 gallons. The tree can then be sprayed 
with this solution so as to just moisten the 
whole surface of the trunk and branches. Do 
not wait until the buds expand, otherwise 
they will get injured. This spray has a 
burning effect upon the hands and clothes, 
so that you should' select a still day for the 
operation and wedr gloves and old clothes 
while spraying. 
S OILS AIMD MANURE S. 
3629. Wood Soot or Coal Soot. 
I would like to know if wood soot can be 
used, or is coal soot necessary for watering 
plants ? What quantity should be used, and 
how should it be mixed to dissolve? (He¬ 
lene Bojanczyk, Russia.) 
Soot would consist largely of carbon, 
whether it was derived from wood or coal. 
It also contains a small percentage of am¬ 
monia, which is the valuable part of it as 
a plant manure. There should be as much 
ammonia in wood soot as from coal soot, 
and we see no reason why you should not use 
it as successfully as coal soot. Possibly 
there would be more ammonia in the wood, 
especially if young wood, than in coal. The 
method of using it is to put a peck or gal¬ 
lon of it in a bag or coarse sack, tie it and 
submerge this in the tank of water. The 
