July 18, 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
475 
The Flower Garden. 
Watering. 
The recent spell of dry, hot weather, has 
been most beneficial to bedding-out plants 
where due attention has been paid to water¬ 
ing. With the exception of three or four 
nights the temperature has been compara¬ 
tively warm, and with moisture at their 
roots the plants have speedily become estab¬ 
lished in their new quarters. But there are 
some very poor specimens to be seen in cer¬ 
tain gardens, the result of neglect as re 
gards watering. Such neglect ought not to 
continue. It is useless taking a lot of 
trouble with plants before they are put out 
and then allowing them to almost perish 
in the flower beds. In many instances it is 
not too late to induce a vigorous growth in 
such specimens by regular applications of 
water each evening during dry weather. 
Faded Flowers. 
• Remove these at least twice each week. 1 
know there are many persons who are averse 
to the removal of any flowers from their 
bedding plants, thinking that by. doing so 
they,spoil the general effect. "But this view 
is quite a mistaken one. Especially is it 
advisable to pick off such blooms during the. 
few following weeks from the bedding-out 
time, as the plants, so relieved, make free 
growth and are so much more likely to 
bear a wealth of blossom later which will 
be continuous if the faded flowers be regu¬ 
larly removed. Furthermore, by doing this 
the flower beds look so much neater in every 
way. 
Layering: Carnations. 
It is now a suitable time to layer Carna¬ 
tions. If the work be left until late in the 
summer the soil becomes cooler, the vigour 
of the plants begins to wane, and the layers 
do not form roots quickly in the circum¬ 
stances, and are less likely to withstand a 
severe winter. 
The Compost. 
Do not rely solely upon the soil in the 
border, but procure some that is quite fresh 
and sweet. It should consist of loam, leaf- 
soil and sand. Use more sand if the loam 
be somewhat heavy, and less sand if it be 
light, or of a sandy nature. 
How to Layer. 
Fig. 1 shows how the layering should be 
done. Layers are side shoots branching out 
from the main stem of the old plant. First 
clear away any leaves, stones, or other 
foreign matter, and also a few of the leaves 
from the shoot to be layered. If several 
shoots be conveniently placed, they may be 
layered "in one heap of prepared soil. A, 
old plant; B, layer ; C, new compost. The 
layer should be pegged down firmly in the 
sandy soil. The stem of each layer should 
be partially cut through, and a small stone 
placed in the slit to keep the lip of the stem 
open. Surround the cut portion with sand 
before adding the prepared compost as a 
final covering. Keep the soil moist. 
Seeds to Sow. 
Perennials and biennials may still be 
sown. Indeed, it is wise to make a sowing 
now, as the resultant plants will prove use¬ 
ful to supplement those raised in June. An¬ 
tirrhinums and Brompton Stocks make fine 
plants from seeds sown now. 
Grafted Trees. 
These should always be examined to as¬ 
certain if all is going well with them. But 
at the present time extra careful scrutiny 
Fig. 2. Removing shoots from the stock 
of grafted trees. 
should be made. In some instances strong 
shoots will be growing from the stocks, 
which will, if left on, rob the grafts con¬ 
siderably. Remove all such shoots growing 
from the stocks. 
Fig. 3. How to tie up a Lettuce. 
Make up all cracks found in the balls 
of grafting clay (where the latter has been 
used), as, even when the grafts are grow¬ 
ing freely the clay balls should be kept 
intact as long as possible. Some grafts may 
have made very vigorous growth, and where 
such is the case some support should be 
given to them, otherwise they may be broken 
off by strong winds. In Fig. 2 the grafts 
are shown at A and the side shoots growing 
from the stock at B, B. The latter are the 
ones to remove. 
Wall Trees. 
Weakly and ill-placed young shoots of 
Apricots, Peaches, Nectarines, Pears, and 
Plums, should be cut out at cnce. It is a 
great mistake to allow all shoots to grow 
to form a thicket, as the surplus —the use¬ 
less—wood only overcrowds and injures the 
fruit-bearing branches which are to be left 
for next year’s crop. Where space admits 
all leading shoots should be laid in their 
full length. To cut off these now would 
mean the production of many young growths 
which would be quite out of place. 
Syringing- and Watering. 
Use the garden engine and forcibly 
syringe the trees which have been recently 
cleared of their fruits. This work is ne¬ 
cessary in order to cleanse the foliage of 
dust and insects. Give water freely, too, 
in drjr weather. Do not neglect the trees 
in this respect, whether the fruit be 
gathered from them or not. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Lettuces. 
In hot weather these plants are in great 
request, and the more tender the leaves the 
more they are appreciated. Some varieties 
form very close hearts, and the inner 
leaves blanch naturally. But in the case of 
varieties which do not blanch naturally, 
tying up should be resorted to. 
Fig. 3 shows how to tie up a Lettuce plant. 
The leaves should be quite dry when the 
plants are tie 5 , else decay may set in. Use 
soft raffia, or matting, and do not tie up 
the leaves too tightly. Allow for further 
growth. The specimens should be about 
three parts grown when the tying is done. 
Autumn-sown Cabbages. 
In northern counties a sowing of suitable 
varieties of Cabbage seed may be made this 
week. It is too early, though, to sow seeds 
in the southern counties. Select an open 
border, and sow the seeds thinly, broad¬ 
cast. 
Winter Greens. 
Continue to plant out these as ground be¬ 
comes vacant. 
Endive. 
Make a sowing of Endive now. The re¬ 
sultant plants will be ready for use in Oc¬ 
tober and November. 
Turnips and Radishes. 
The yellow-fleshed varieties of Turnips 
may be sown now. But other sorts need not 
be rejected if they are preferred. Also sow 
seeds of Black Spanish Radishes; the crop 
will be useful for salads. 
Clean Ground. 
Kill all weeds during fine weather. It is 
advisable to thoroughly clean the ground 
now; later it will be more difficult. 
Foxglove. 
The Amateur’s Greenhouse. 
Paint and Putty. 
During the dry spells which we almost in¬ 
variably experience during the month i f 
July, any leakages or defects in the various 
structures should he repaired, and the green¬ 
house generally renovated. A coat of paint 
on the outside is always advisable at least 
