July 18, 1908. the GARDENING WORLD. 470 
matter by lifting the turf and putting in 
some soil if the portions where the beds used 
to be become hollow. 
3028. Toadstools on Lawn. 
For some years past a ring of fungus or 
toadstools has appeared on my lawn, and it 
is getting bigger. Can you tell me what 
causes this and what I can do to stop it? 
The grass generally is good, but inside the 
ring it is very patchy. (J. D. Williams, 
Cornwall.) 
The fungus you mention is the fairy ring 
Mushroom, which usually occurs on lawns 
and in meadows frequented by cattle. You 
should give the ring, right to the outer edge 
of it, a good dressing of lime and kainit, 
giving particular attention to the outer and 
deep green portion of the ring to destroy the 
mycelium of the toadstools beneath the sur¬ 
face. Next autumn top dress the centre of 
the ring with well-rotted farmyard manure 
or old potting soil. If the grass has died 
out in places it would be well to sow some 
grass seeds on the bare patches, commencing 
early for the purpose of giving grass seeds 
time to germinate while the weather is still 
fine. The lime and the kainit will help to 
kill the fungus. Another plan is to lift, the 
turf and take out a ring of soil well beyond 
the outer edge of the ring. Then dig in a 
good dressing of lime and kainit in this 
portion ; then either use fresh turf and soil 
or give the old turf a good dressing of lime 
and kainit after you lay it down. 
HEDGES , 
3029. Green and Golden Privet Hedge. 
Can you tell me how I can manage a Pri¬ 
vet hedge planted with green and golden 
varieties alternately ? The green portions 
are getting broader every year And the yellow 
portions narrower. It is about 4 ft. high. 
(D. Little, Devon.) 
The reason for the disparity between the 
green and the golden Privet is that the 
green plant always grows much more 
strongly than the variegated one. It is, 
therefore, necessary to trim the green one 
rather more closely than the yellow one when 
rearing the hedge. It is easy to do at this 
time, as the green one can simply be cut well 
back to its proper limits allowing the yel¬ 
low one to extend rather more freely. Af¬ 
ter both have reached their proper height 
with such attention as this there is usually 
little difficulty in managing them. As it 
is, we would recommend you to cut out pieces 
of the green Privet where it abuts upon the 
yellow. This could be done at once with 
a knife and possibly the yellow one will 
occupy the space thus made. You need not 
make any visible holes in the hedge, but 
wait until the yellow fills up the space pro¬ 
vided before cutting the green back any 
more 
ROSES. 
3030. Moving Roses. 
Please say if Rose trees will be injured 
or otherwise by being moved and what is the 
best time to plant a William Allen Richard¬ 
son, both on a north and a south wall ? (Con¬ 
stant Reader, Yorks.) 
If you can get Roses in pots you can plant 
them now if the ground is in good condition 
to receive them, otherwise it should be well 
prepared. We should not advise you to lift 
any Roses just now, as they are in full 
growth, and the hot weather would almost 
certainly be fatal to them. It would be in 
any case to many of them. The only con¬ 
ditions under which we should attempt it 
would be to cut the Roses well back, leaving 
only a few leaves upon them. Then we 
should lift the roots as intact as possible, 
and dip them well in a pail of thin mud. 
That would help to preserve the moisture in 
them till they commence fresh growth. The 
best time to giant William Allen Richard¬ 
son would be the last fortnight of October 
and the first fortnight in November, 'lhat 
is also the time for Roses generally. It does 
better on east and west aspect walls than 
upon north and south. On a north wall it 
1 would scarcely get sufficient sunshine to ma¬ 
ture the wood and cn a south wall it pro¬ 
bably gets too much heat during the sum¬ 
mer. If you must plant on these aspects then 
see that the plants will be fully exposed to 
light. They should not be overhung by 
trees, otherwise you cannot expect them to 
succeed. 
3031. Roses Mildewed. 
Some of my Rose trees are badly mildewed, 
although I have been using sulphur upon 
them. They are near a large tree and are 
shaded during a period of the day, and the 
soil is rather dry. Any information would 
much oblige. (B. Kemp, Sussex.) 
Flowers of sulphur dusted upon the leaves 
answer the purpose admirably during the 
early part of the season, while the fungus 
is in its first stage of existence. Later on, 
however, it enters upon another stage and 
is mere difficult to get rid of, while it is 
more dangerous to the health and well-being 
of the Roses. At this second stage, there¬ 
fore, it would be well to spray them with 
sulphide of potassium at the rate of 1 oz. to 
three gallons of water. This is not so un¬ 
sightly as sulphur, and after a time it may 
be washed off with clean water. Leaves or 
flower buds that are very badly infested with 
the fungus could be removed and burned, as 
such flowers cannot open and the leaves can¬ 
not be of much service to the trees. 
3032. Dorothy Perkins Dropping Its 
Buds. 
Can you please tell me why some Roses 
of Dorothy Ferkins have dropped many of 
their buds, although this is the secoiid sea¬ 
son since they were planted ? Only some of 
the buds have dropped from each bunch, not 
the whole of the bunch. (M. 'C. Matthews, 
Wilts.) 
This feature of Dorothy Perkins may be 
peculiar to the Rose itself, and in any case 
it is fairly general this year, at least in 
light soils. It may be that the rainfall was 
scarcely sufficient to enable the plant to open 
all the flower buds produced. An unusually 
dry soil in a warm season would bring about 
the same result. On the other hand, Roses 
are tender while making their young growth, 
and these buds may have got a check during 
the cold nights that preceded the recent hot 
weather. If you have reason to suppose it is 
due to the dry soil of to the dry season, 
you could give the Roses a good drenching 
of water, and even mulching with farmyard 
manure. The soil could first be loosened on 
the 1 op, the manure put on and then the 
water applied. This should help them in 
making growth, even after they have passed 
out of flower. 
3033. Pruning a Mois Rose. 
I should be glad to know your opinion 
about the pruning of Moss Roses. They are 
pruned pretty close back every year, but 
they do not give so many blooms as others 
not far from here and which get very little 
or no pruning. (J. D. Lloyd, Norfolk.) 
No doubt you can get the best blooms from 
Moss Roses when they are pruned back in 
regulation fashion, but you must always re¬ 
member that this type, as well as various 
other Roses that are grown for garden deco¬ 
ration, need not be pruned so hard as for 
exhibition purposes. Indeed, some people 
do not prune their Moss Roses at all bevond 
removing dead wood and the unripened tips 
of long shoots So long as the shoots are 
thinned out sufficiently-to let light and air 
play freely amongst them they may even be 
left at full length. After a time, however. 
some of these long shoots could be thinned 
out, giving preference to the young ones. 
The old ones can then be removed right to 
the base. They may even be left in the 
natural form, or if you have plenty of space 
the long shoots may be laid down in March 
and held in that position by means of stout 
pegs. They will then throw out shoots all 
along the better ripened portions of last 
year’s wood and give you more Roses than 
if hard pruned. If you do not like them 
pegged down in this fashion they may be 
left in the form of bushes. 
3034. Bouquet d’Or Failing:. 
I have a climbing Rose tree. Bouquet d’Or, 
which is apparently dying back. The leaves 
are turning yellow and dropping off. The 
wood looks dry and dead. The later blooms 
are puny. This tree was planted about three 
years ago when it was a young plant. It 
is against a wall with a wooden trellis. 
The aspect is southerly. Up to quite re¬ 
cently it has been a most satisfactory tree, 
blooming well and freely, as it did again 
this spring. I have cut off the worst-look¬ 
ing parts and taken to syringing it every 
evening. The soil is kept well hoed round 
the roots. It is not Rose canker, as there is 
no swelling and the trees on either side of 
it are robust and health}'. Can you suggest 
any remedy or better treatment ? (Rosarian, 
Hereford.) 
The Rose Bouquet d’Or is more suitable 
for east, west and north aspect walls than 
a south one. This, therefore, may be against 
the plant to some extent, but not actually 
knowing the circumstances of the case we 
can only make suggestions as to the cause 
of the failure. If the soil W'as not prepared 
by trenching or taking out a big hole before 
planting, the roots may be struggling in a 
shallow soil. A partial remedy for that 
would be mulching with cow manure and 
liberal watering. If this is not the camse it 
may be accidental failure, as individual 
plants sometimes go wreng without apparent 
cause. You should apply the mulching and 
watering, and if the Rose does not improve 
take cuttings in October next. If the Rose 
is still deteriorating or does not bear suffi¬ 
cient flowering wood to make it worth lead¬ 
ing, you could lift it and plant a strong 
cutting after it has been rooted. The soil 
should, of course, be prepared by taking out 
a large hole, seeing that the bottom is suffi¬ 
ciently porous to allow superfluous water to 
drain away. If the natural soil is poor, use 
some well-fermented cow manure and lime 
rubble, mixing them well with the soil. You 
may try other plants of it on some other 
aspect if you have convenience for the same. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
3035. Name of Shrub and Treatment. 
Would you be so kind as to tell me the 
name of this? 1 saw it growing as a hedge, 
and it makes a capital subject for the pur¬ 
pose. Do you think cuttings put in just now 
would take root, or would you prefer to 
wait —say, about the month of September or 
so ? The growth is full of sap, and I would 
have waited till then, but I got them sent, 
so I have done the best I could. (G. S.) 
You can use soft-wooded cuttings at the 
present time if you still have got them alive. 
Cut them below a fairly firm joint and in¬ 
sert them firmly in pots of light soil consist¬ 
ing for the most part of sand. , Stand the 
pots in a cold frame or, better still, under 
a hand-light that may be kept closed. It 
is necessary to maintain a moist atmosphere 
for a time to prevent the leaves from flag¬ 
ging too much. Unless you have some ex¬ 
perience in propagating at this time of the 
year, we think you would have been much 
more certain of success if you had the cut¬ 
tings about the end of September. The cut¬ 
tings may be 5 in. cr 6 in. long to put in 
