July 25, 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
485 
If possible, dull, showery weather 
should be selected for Rose budding, and 
it should be borne in mind that the stocks 
should be kept well supplied with mois¬ 
ture for some little time previous to the 
operation being performed, to cause the 
bark to part readily from the wood be¬ 
neath. The common Dog Rose is usually 
employed for budding half-standard and 
standard grown Roses, and two-year-old 
Briers, grown from seeds or cuttings, and 
Manetti stocks for dwarf or bush Roses, 
both classes of stocks being obtainable 
from nurserymen at a very cheap rate. 
Although the operation of budding is 
performed in a similar manner for both 
standards and bushes, the buds for the 
former must be inserted in growth of the 
current season and not in the main stem, 
whilst for bush Roses the buds must be 
inserted in the main stem. Fig. 1 of the 
sketches herewith illustrates a standard 
Brier prepared ready for budding, two 
branches at the top being retained to re¬ 
ceive the buds, in the upper side as near 
the main stem as possible, as indicated. 
Bush Roses should be budded either 
just above or below the ground level in 
the position indicated by the T in f igs. 
2 and 3, the latter method being prefer¬ 
able when practicable. Buds for budding 
purposes should be plump and be selected 
from well matured growth that has borne 
flowers, and be taken and prepared in the 
manner shown in Fig. 4. The shoot con¬ 
taining the selected bud or buds should 
be removed from the tree, the spines be 
rubbed off, and the leaves at the bud be 
removed, a small portion of the leaf stalk 
being left as shown. 
■ The bud should be cut out with a sharp 
budding knife, which must be inserted 
about half an inch below the leaf stalk 
and come out a similar distance above the 
bud, the cut being just deep enough to 
bring a thin slice of wood away with the 
bud. Before the bud can be inserted this 
thin slice of wood must be removed by 
lifting up the lower end with the point of 
the knife, as shown in Fig. 5, placing the 
thumb on the uplifted end and pulling it 
out. The appearance of a small round 
hole at the back of the bud, as Fig. 6, 
after the wood has been taken out, indi¬ 
cates that the vital part has also been re- 
>ved and the bud rendered useless. 
The stock should be prepared to receive 
the bud by making a T-shaped cut with 
the knife just through the bark, as shown 
in Figs. 2, 3 and 7. With the haft of the 
budding knife gently raise the bark on 
each side, insert the bud and push it well 
in, as shown in Fig. 8, using the leaf stalk 
as a handle for so doing. Any portion of 
the shield or bark of the bud that projects 
out of the incision in the stock must be 
cut off level with the transverse cut, as 
shown in Fig. 9. Tie in the bud with 
raffia, as shown in Fig. 10, binding it 
firmly but not too tightly round the 
branch or stem. The buds should be fre¬ 
quently examined, and if the raffia ap¬ 
pears too tight it should be readjusted to 
allow the swelling bark plenty of room. 
When growth becomes dormant the ties 
may be removed altogether, and the 
branches in which the buds are inserted 
be shortened one half, as indicated by the 
letter A in Fig. 1, whilst some time dur¬ 
ing the following March the remainder 
of the branch as far as the bud should be 
removed at the point B. 
Ortus. 
- +++ - 
Dianthus 
Napoleon III. 
Cl l _-_ _ 
Method Propagating. 
This, the most beautiful of all the 
“male Pinks,” has a great tendency to 
flower itself to death, and unless this 
characteristic is fully understood, and 
guarded against, the whole stock may very 
soon be entirely lost. Many growers have 
suffered this loss, and it is really difficult 
:o obtain the true variety, as an inferior 
mrt is sometimes confounded with the 
genuine kind, being much less liable to 
die off. The only sure way to keep the 
true stock, when once it is obtained, is to 
root cuttings every year. 
These cuttings are not always easily 
crot, so to ensure the required number 
being available, some of the plants should 
be cut down at once, and the cuttings se¬ 
cured as soon as they become large 
enouuh. I find that it is difficult to have 
cuttings ready in this district before the 
beginning of September, but further 
south they ought to be available much 
earlier. Try to secure a heel with each 
cutting, although this is not really essen¬ 
tial. Insert in boxes of sweet, sandy soil, 
place in a cold frame, and keep close and 
shaded for a few weeks. Afterwards admit 
abundance of air on all favouiable occa¬ 
sions, and should the cuttings show signs 
of throwing up flower stems, as they most 
likelv will, pinch off well down, and the 
resulting plants will be nice and bushy. 
Plant out in April. 
■Dt ITU 
How to Bud Roses. 
Preston House, 
F-^lithgow. 
