495 
July 2 5 , 1908 THE GARDENING WORLD. 
uning it, and what is the best way of 
ling it? (J. McC., Perthshire.) 
The necessary pruning may be given at 
ice, so that the tree may devote its energies 
the development and plumping up of the 
ood and buds that will furnish the Mos¬ 
ul next year. It is only necessary to cut 
ick the straggling portion of the branch 
itil it is in line with the rest of the tree 
hen cut into good rounded shape. Make 
e cut so that it will be as little noticeable 
possible. Sometimes this can be done he¬ 
ath or behind a young branch which would 
de the cut portions. The present is the best 
me to do it, as you can then see where there 
any real crowding. Hawthorns may be 
.irly dense without suffering any damage 
they have grown naturally without much 
tention in the way of pruning. 
055. Passion Flower Darkening a 
Window. 
A Passion Flower nailed to the wall of 
,e house is now making so much growth 
iat it is darkening the window with the 
,ng shoots that hang down from above, 
.ust these be cut away, or will it prevent 
le plant from flowering next year? (J. O., 
xon.) 
Cutting away shoots from a Passion 
lower at present will not prevent it from 
iwering next year, as it flowers on the 
iung wood made during the current season, 
t the same time, we think it would be well 
avoid making the Passion Flower appear 
>rmal by cutting away all the branches at 
lis time. A better plan would be to thin 
it the more bulky of the shoots and leave 
ime of the more graceful to hang down 
iosely, as this serves to hide the window 
id will not unduly darken it. Of course, 
you seriously object to branches hanging 
own in front of the window, only the 
lorter shoots could be left, and even those 
lat are left might be shortened. This will 
:medy the matter without spoiling the free 
id easy charm of what a wall climber 
tould be, especially those having the loose 
id graceful character of the Passion 
lower. 
FRUIT. 
056. Treatment of Strawberries. 
How should I treat Strawberry plants 
lat have done fruiting ? The ground has 
?en getting very weedy since the straw was 
at on. Should this be taken off, and what 
lout the runners? (J. O., Oxon.) 
After the fruit has all been gathered the 
1st plan would be to take off the straw, as 
iat enables you to clean the ground. Un- 
■ss you require the runners for making a 
:esh plantation they should also be severed 
rom the parent plants, so that all the rough 
laterial may be cleared away. On the other 
and, if you desire to make a fresh planta- 
on you must leave as many of the runners 
3 will be necessary to plant the ground, 
he ground should then be hoed and the 
eeds raked off. It is quite a mistake to 
llow the ground to bear weeds, even al- 
|tough the Strawberries have finished fruit- 
tg. The weeds not only rob the Strawberry 
lants of the food in the ground, but they 
11 the soil with seeds that will keep you 
jusy for years afterwards in keeping them 
own. You cannot, therefore, keep the 
round too clean. 
057. Young Canes of Loganberry. 
I have a Loganberry which has a quan- 
ty of fruit on it. The new shoots are very 
rong and of great length. Could I shorten 
Ack these shoots, and when? The trellis 
a which they are grown will scarcely take 
lem. The old canes should be cut away 
iter on, should they not? (Devonia, 
>evon.) 
It would be a pity to shorten the canes of 
ie Loganberry if you can accommodate 
them at all, as they should produce fruit in 
proportion to their strength and length. A 
good plan, therefore, would be to raise the 
height of the trellis, and if this could not 
be done on the same plan as the present 
trellis you could strain a wire about 12 in. 
to 15 in. above the trellis, so that the canes 
may be laid in more nearly their full length. 
Loganberries do produce canes of great 
length after they get thoroughly established. 
It is for this reason that we advise you to 
increase the height of the trellis by some 
such simple means as we have described. 
When they were first put into commerce few 
people had any notion that they were capable 
of attaining such a height. If it is necessary 
to shorten the canes at all by merely taking 
off the slender unripened tips this could be 
done in March. In the meantime, the canes 
that are in bearing now may be cut right 
away as soon as ever they have had all the 
fruit gathered. There is no necessity for re¬ 
taining them after the fruit has been 
gathered. On the other hand, the young 
canes will benefit by the increased amount of 
light and air about them. 
3058. Transplanting Grafted Trees. 
I have tried my hand at grafting some 
Apples and Plums this year, and they have 
made about 18 in. of growth since they were 
done. I should be pleased to know through 
The Gardening World if I could safely 
transplant them in November next. (Novice, 
Middlesex.) 
The young or maiden trees may be lifted 
with perfect safety and replanted during the 
first fortnight of November. In the mean¬ 
time, there is a danger that the grafts may 
be broken by wind and rain storms, as they 
may not yet be very firmly united with the 
stock. If your garden is in any way ex¬ 
posed to wind, or the plants liable to other 
accidents, a good plan would be to put a 
stake to each and make it secure at once. 
We presume the stocks on which you have 
put them are young and that you did not 
refer to old trees that have been cut down 
and grafted. In that case the roots may be 
so deeply established in the ground that it 
would be a more or less severe check to the 
trees starting in spring, although with fairly 
ordinary care we do not think there would 
be much risk. 
3059. Grapes Splitting. 
I have a house of Black Hamburgh 
Grapes,, and on looking over them the other 
day I found two berries split. Can you 
give me any idea of the cause of it ? They v 
are fairly strong and the border is outside. 
I also give plenty of air and leave a little 
on at night. Do you think it is right my 
doing so? My house is also rather damp 
and drips through at places. If you will 
give me some information about it I shall 
be greatly obliged. (A. D., Middlesex.) 
We think the splitting is due to the sud¬ 
den advent of copious rain after a droughty 
time. The same thing happens, especially 
in the case of inside borders, when the Vines 
are allowed to get dry at the roots and then 
heavily watered. Black Hamburgh is not 
very liable to this misbehaviour, but Madres- 
field Court is very much addicted to it. It 
simply means that the growth of the berries 
has been somewhat checked through an in¬ 
sufficient supply of moisture at the roots 
and the skin gets hard. Then when the 
roots are suddenly supplied with water, 
whether naturally or artificially, the berries 
get more water than the hardened skin can 
accommodate when it bursts or splits. Your 
border being outside was first subjected to 
the long-continued drought and then heavy 
rainfall. We presume this as you made no 
mention of watering. The giving of plenty 
of air is right and proper at this season of 
the year with a little at night, which pre¬ 
vents the moisture from condensing on the 
berries. It is not right, however, to have 
a faulty roof, as drip continued over 
ever so snort a time will ao damage to many 
plants that are less tender than Grapes. In 
dry weather the roof of the house should be 
examined and all broken pieces or cracks 
put right with glass or putty, as the case 
may be. On the other hand, you could in 
all probability have prevented this cracking 
by giving the border a good watering at in¬ 
tervals of ten days while the drought lasted. 
This would have kept the berries supplied 
with moisture, and growing Grapes should 
always have a steady supply of moisture 
while the berries are swelling and until they 
are ripe. This, of course, requires a deal 
of attention in examining the border to find 
whether watering is really necessary or not, 
but outside borders in a droughty time re¬ 
quire water. 
3060. Raspberries Failing. 
Can you tell me in your paper what is the 
cause of Raspberries failing like the en¬ 
closed ? My canes had heaps of blossom, 
but they came to nothing better than the 
specimen herewith. (West Chinnock, Soms.) 
We have carefully examined the spray of 
fruit you sent us, and being perfectly free 
from vermin and fungus the only conclusion 
we could come to was that the plants have 
been suffering from want of moisture at the 
roots. Raspberries often fail in this way, 
especially in the south and eastern part of 
England, and the recent drought would ac¬ 
count for your failure. The flowers have 
evidently been produced and the berries set, 
but they failed to swell. If the ground 
gets very dry, Raspberries cannot avail 
themselves of the food in it for lack of 
moisture, as the roots are produced chiefly 
near the surface. In a state of nature Rasp¬ 
berries succeed best on the margins of woods 
and in open glades where the roots get 
covered with the fallen leaves and where the 
soil never gets very dry nor baked. You 
can guard against this another year by 
mulching the ground with something that 
will retain the moisture even if it supplies 
no food to the Raspberries. If you can give 
two or three inches of partly-fermented horse 
manure or 3 in. of leaf mould or even 4 in. 
of grass from the mowing machine, this 
would keep the ground cool and preserve the 
moisture in it and the Raspberries could 
hardly fail to profit by it. After the mulch¬ 
ing has been put on you could even water 
the ground with the hose if you have got 
water at command. For instance, the mulch¬ 
ing could be put on at the end of May or 
earlier, and watering could be commenced 
as soon as the Raspberries have passed out 
of flower if the weather is in any way 
droughty. We think if you adopt this means 
that you will have no difficulty in getting a 
crop of Raspberries. 
NAMES OF PLANTS . 
(A. M. R.) 1, Epilobium angustifolium 
brachypodum; 2, Oenothera fruticosa Fra- 
seri; 3, Campanula glomerata alba; 4, Lia- 
tris spicata ; 5, Anthericum Liliago; 6, ap¬ 
pears to be Buphthalmum salicifolium, but 
you might have sent us better leaves; 7, 
Veronica Teucrium; 8, Tibouchina semide- 
candra (formerly named Lasiandra ma- 
crantha). 
(J. G.) Viburnum dentatum or Arrow- 
wood. 
(Lawjmr, Beds.) 1 to 17 are varieties of 
Roses which we cannot undertake to name. 
They should be compared with a named col¬ 
lection. Nos. 4, 5, 7 and 8 are old garden 
Roses, which we seldom see nowadays. 
Florists’ flowers generally, such as Chrys¬ 
anthemums, Carnations, Pelargoniums, and 
other garden subjects should all be compared 
with a named collection, and we think the 
Rose grower who supplies you with plants 
would be willing to help you. 
