August S, 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
519 
Address: The Editor, The Gardening 
World, 37 and 38, Shoe Lane, London, E.C. 
The Editor invites enquiries, which may 
cover any branch of gardening. Questions 
should, be as brief as possible and written on 
one side of the paper only; a separate sheet 
of paper should be used for each question. 
Replies cannot be sent by post. 
Garden Plans .—Gardeners who would make 
the best use of this column are invited to 
prepare and forward to us a rough outline 
drawing or plan of their gardens, indicating 
the position of beds and lawns, the charac- 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
3081. Limnanthes Withering Up. 
My soil is very light and sandy, and 
Limnanthes Douglasii is withering up, al¬ 
though it flowered well during the recent 
spell of dry weather. All my other annuals 
are doing well with this exception, and I 
expected it to keep on blooming till Septem¬ 
ber at least. This is the first time I have 
grown it, and would like your opinion upon 
it. (J. Clark, Northumberland.) 
Limnanthes Douglasii flowers freely, like 
the Nasturtium, to which it is allied, but 
it does not last long as a rule, especially in 
sandy soil. If you want a succession of 
bloom you should make a sowing at the be¬ 
ginning of August and another at the be¬ 
ginning of April. The secret of keeping up 
a supply of blossom is to have different 
sowings of it going on in succession. The 
seeds sown in August would give the first 
supply of blooms in the following spring 
or early summer. 
3082. Blue and White Border. 
I am wanting a blue and white border 
about forty yards by four yards, so please 
could you give me a list of names in your 
next issue? I thought of having a line of 
tall plants at the back and two or three rows 
of shorter plants in front. I want a con¬ 
tinuous bloom through the spring and sum¬ 
mer. An answer will oblige. (H., 
Northants.) 
Blue flowers in early spring would be 
supplied by Anemone Hepatica, single and 
double blue, A. angulosa, A. apennina, and 
A. blanda. Later on, blue will be supplied 
by Myosotis sylvatica, M. alpestris Vic- 
toriae, Campanula turbinata, C. carpatica, 
and C. rotundifolia Hostii. You will note 
also that we have commenced with dwarf va¬ 
rieties, and this will help you in the arrange¬ 
ment of the border. The dwarf ones should 
come in the front line and the second size 
in the middle line, and last of all we shall 
name the tall ones for the back line. They 
are also pretty well scattered over the whole 
season from February or March till Octo¬ 
ber. Middle line plants are Polemonium 
caeruleum, P. humile, Erigeron speciosus, 
Centaurea montana, Campanula persicifolia 
grandiflora, Statice latifolia, S. Limonium, 
Veronica subsessilis, Platycodon grandi- 
florum, Aster Amellus, Echinops Ritro. The 
taller plants are blue Delphiniums in 
variety, Veronica longifolia, Eryngium 
amethystinum, E. planum, E. oliverianum, 
ter and height of the fence or wall; posi¬ 
tion of vegetable garden, orchard, etc. The 
north side of the garden and any over¬ 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It 
should also be stated whether the garden is 
-flat or on a declivity, and all large trees 
should be marked. Particulars of the na¬ 
ture of the soil will also help us to give 
satisfactory replies. When such plans are 
received they will be carefully filed, with 
the name and address of the sender, and 
will be consulted by the Editor whenever an 
enquiry is sent. 
Aster "Novi-Belgii densus, A.N.-B. Wm. 
Marshall. White species are more plentiful, 
and you should get, if possible, various 
forms of the Christmas Rose, also white 
varieties of the Lenten Rose, such as Helle- 
borus orientalis, Gertrude Jekyll, Anemone 
Hepatica, single and double white. Peren¬ 
nial Candytuft, dwarf Phloxes like Phlox 
Subulata Nelsoni, P. S. Nivea, Saxifraga 
decipiens, S. caespitosa, S. hypnoides, and 
S. Wallacei. All of these are relatively 
dwarf. In the second line from the front 
you can have Iris florentina, I. albicans 
Princess of Wales, I. sibirica alba, I. s. 
orientalis (Snow Queen), single and double 
white Pyrethrums, Malva moschata alba, 
and Oenothera speciosa. Still taller plants 
are Chrysanthemum maximum. King Ed¬ 
ward, Anemone japonica alba, Gelega offi¬ 
cinalis alba, Lysimachia clethroides, Chinese 
Peony Festiva maxima, and Chinese Peony 
Lady Godiva, Sidalsea Candida and Cam¬ 
panula persicifolia Moerheimi. The tallest 
plants for the back line would include 
Spiraea Aruncus, White Delphiniums, 
Lilium candidum, Campanula latifolia 
alba, tall, late white Phloxes, the white ever¬ 
lasting Pea (Lathyrus latifolius albus), 
Chrysanthemum uliginosum and Epilobium 
angustifolium album. At least fifty plants 
are included in the above list, so that you 
should have a good deal of variety. Pos¬ 
sibly elsewhere you will be able to find other 
blue and white flowers, but if you have any 
difficulty you can let us know, quoting the 
number of this answer. 
3083. Points of Gladioli for Exhibition. 
I should be pleased to know the points to 
be looked for in Gladioli for exhibition. (H. 
Staddon, Essex.) 
Your flowers should have good size, shape 
and texture, that is, they should be of good 
substance. The flowers should be in prime 
freshness, not fading through age, nor 
bleached by too much shading in getting the 
flowers to expand. The spikes should be of 
good length and the flowers all directed one 
way upon the stem. They should not be 
placed right and left on the edges of the 
stem, because flowers of that character can 
never be arranged to show their full beauty 
in a bunch of cut flowers. The aggregate of 
the flowers should also cover and hide the 
stem; in other words, they should not be 
scattered at intervals along it. The parts of 
the flower, that is, the petals in ordinary 
language, should be broad and overlap one 
another. If the stem has ten to eleven 
flowers all open at the same time, they 
should be excellent samples of their kind. 
There is an art in shading flower-stems so as 
to keep some of the flowers from making 
further growth for a time and of exposing 
another portion of the spike to sunshine so 
as to harden them into bloom. In these 
operations, however, you should be careful 
not to overdo the shading. Dark varieties 
should have very decided, uniform and 
bright colours. The lighter ones should be 
clear, soft and uniform. 
LAWNS. 
3084. Bristly Grass on Lawn. 
I prepared the soil and sowed down a 
lawn in April last and let the grass grow 
rather rankly the first time to let it get well 
established. I then cut it with the scythe. 
I found a good deal of a grass with a long, 
bristly head, and enclose you one. Please 
let me know what it is, and say if it will 
make a good lawn grass. It seems rather 
rank and loose, and if a weed, how can I 
get rid of it? (T. D. W., Cambs.) 
The grass you mention as being coarse is 
Wall Barley (Hordeum murinum). It is 
only an annual, and the best plan is to cut 
it so as to allow the good grasses to form a 
close sole. The Barley is not likely to 
trouble you any more if you take care "that 
none is allowed to ripen and scatter its seeds 
in the vicinity of the lawn. Even then you 
would not get much trouble from this grass, 
providing the law-i is fairly thick before 
next spring. The Wall Barley grows 
chiefly in rough, untilled places, and likes 
loose soil in which to grow. Very probably 
the plants grew in the neighbourhood of 
your lawn, which furnished the seeds that 
made your lawn appear rough. 
ROSES. 
3085. Roses Failing 1 to Bloom. 
Some of my Rose trees planted in March 
last have failed to bloom, but have one or 
two strong shoots or suckers coming up from 
the ground, and although they are strong 
they have no signs of a flower bud. Could 
you please say what is the matter, and what 
I should do to make them bloom? (T. D. W., 
Cambs.) 
In all probability the suckers you men¬ 
tion are those of the stock on which the 
Roses were budded. The Roses themselves 
have failed to grow. You could bud them 
a little below the ground line with some 
good varieties. When you have done this 
the suckers should be topped, and that will 
encourage the buds you have just put in to 
form a union. The suckers being already 
established in the situation, the varieties 
budded upon them should grow stronglv 
next year, even if they do not start this. 
3086. Red, White, and Yellow Roses. 
I intend planting a bed of red, white and 
yellow Roses next autumn. What varieties 
would you recommend, and in what order 
should they be planted? I mean what colour 
should go outside and which in the centre? 
Thanking you in anticipation. (T. Wilcox, 
Essex.) 
You could plant Frau Karl Druschki in 
the centre, and that being a strong grower 
will form a good background to the darker 
colours. For a yellow, you might plant 
Souvenir de Pierre Xotting. Liberty being 
a dwarf and free-flowering variety," might 
be planted round the outside. The flowers 
are of a rich, velvety red or crimson. 
3087. Black Spots on Gloire de Dijon. 
Will you kindly explain cause of black 
spots on enclosed leaves of a rose Gloire de 
Dijon, planted last autumn? The spots ap¬ 
pear, not only on leaves of last year’s wood 
but also on a fine and healthy young shoot 
made within the last few weeks." A Bouquet 
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