520 
THE GARDENING WORLD, 
August 8, 1908. 
d’Or planted near and similarly treated is 
not at all affected, but is growing splendidly. 
(J. N. A., Devon.) 
Your Rose is affected with the Rose leaf 
black blotch, caused by a fungus named 
Actinonema Rosae. It is not a very deadly 
fungus, and when only present in moderate 
quantity it merely disfigures the foliage. 
You should burn the worst of the leaves, 
then spray the remainder with a dilute solu¬ 
tion of Bordeaux mixture This will not kill 
the fungus inside the Rose leaf, but it will 
destroy the spores which come outside the 
leaf and thus prevent it from spreading and 
attacking other plants. You should spray at 
intervals of ten days, and that will destroy 
other spores which may come out later on. 
Next year, when you see any evidence of it, 
you can commence spraying again with a 
dilute solution, and this will prevent the 
fungus from disfiguring the foliage of your 
Roses. You may not, however, have any of 
the fungus next year, provided j'ou carefully 
collect and burn all the fallen leaves that 
have been diseased. 
3088. Dorothy Perkins or Lady Gay. 
Please inform me if enclosed blossom is 
Dorothy Perkins or Lady Gay. I purchased 
it for Dorothy Perkins. It has grown very 
quickly into a splendid tree, and at the pre¬ 
sent time is loaded with blossom. Also 
kindly instruct me how to treat after flower¬ 
ing. Ought I to cut off all dead blossoms, 
and how far back? (J. T., Beds.) 
The trusses of flowers you send us are those 
of Lady Gay, which has much deeper pink 
flowers than Dorothy Perkins and keeps its 
colour for a much longer period. The blos¬ 
soms will hang on the bush till they get 
quite pale and withered, but after they cease 
to be effective you can cut them off. It de¬ 
pends upon what room the young shoots have 
to properly expose their foliage and wood to 
light and air as to how much you may cut 
off. We have already cut away all the old 
wood, even right to the base, because there 
was not sufficient room to expose the young 
shoots to light and air while the old ones 
remained. You will get the best flowers and 
largest trusses from the young wood, which 
should be tied in full length. If you have 
plenty of space and can properly expose 
both the old and the young shoots to light 
and air, you could leave some of the old 
ones on. If space is limited, then you can 
cut them right away to the bottom, as soon 
as the Roses have faded. This will give 
the young shoots a much better chance to 
develop their wood and ripen it. 
3089. Crimson Rambler Turning 
Brown. 
I have a Crimson Rambler Rose tree 
against the front wall of the house, and it 
appeared healthy till quite recently. It also 
flowered splendidly in June, and has a few 
trusses on it yet, but the leaves are all turn¬ 
ing brown and blighted. Can you say what 
is the matter from the enclosed leaves? 
(C. W. D., Essex.) 
Crimson Rambler is very subject to red 
spider when placed against the wall of a 
house or similar situation. It makes a deal 
of rampant growth, and in dry seasons it 
almost invariably gets attacked with the red 
spider after reaching any size. It should 
really be planted where the wind can play 
through the foliage. In the way of remedy, 
you can syringe the plant with a strong solu¬ 
tion of Gishurst’s compound, or soft soap 
and water. The Roses should be forcibly 
syringed with this on two successive nights, 
in order to destroy the red spider. At the 
same time you should supply the roots with 
plenty of water and see that the water sinks 
into the soil instead of flowing away by the 
surface. This should improve the plant 
considerably. It might be worth while 
planting it in a more open situation next 
November, cutting it down rather severely. 
Some other varieties could be planted against 
the wall of the house. Longworth Rambler 
is a very good one for this purpose. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
3090. Shrubs for a Dry Bank. 
I should be glad if you would give me 
the names of a few shrubs that would cover 
a dry bank and look better than grass, 
which gets unsightly during August and 
afterwards, till the autumn rains make the 
grass spring up afresh. Please reply 
through the columns of the “ G.W.” 
(C. W .D., Essex.) 
Several plants of the Pea family are very 
suitable for covering dry banks, and amongst 
these you should plant Cytisus albus, C. 
scoparius, C. s. andreanus, Spartium jun- 
ceum, Genista tinctoria, Spanish Broom 
(Genista hispanica), double Gorse (Ulex 
europaeus flore pleno), Lavender, Rosemary, 
and St. John’s Wort (Hypericum calycinum). 
You need not use all of the above unless you 
like, but all of them are suitable and will 
furnish considerable variety. 
3091. Honeysuckle for Climbing' on 
Summer House. 
I am going to build a summer house of rus¬ 
tic work, and I want to plant Honeysuckle 
to climb all over it, so will you be so kind 
as to tell me of five kinds? I want them to 
be of different colours, fast growing, ever¬ 
green and sweet scented. What time would 
be the best to plant them, and please name the 
colour after each one. The soil is rich. (E. 
Hewitt, Hants.) 
It is very difficult to get all these desir¬ 
able characters in one and the same plant. 
Most of the Honeysuckles are deciduous, but 
commence growing early. If the autumn is 
mild, however, they retain their leaves till 
late in the year. The most showy Honey¬ 
suckle is the scarlet one, Lonicera semper- 
virens, which is evergreen when grown in a 
greenhouse, but is deciduous out of doors in 
all the colder parts of the country. The 
flowers are scentless. A sweetly scented one 
is L. fragrantissima, with small white 
flowers and nearly evergreen leaves. L. 
japonica aureo-reticulata has pale yellow, 
fragrant flowers, and is evergreen in warm, 
sheltered districts. One of the best for your 
purpose is the late Dutch variety of our 
common Honeysuckle, L. Periclymenum. 
Another one for the sake of variety is L. 
Caprifolium, with fragrant yellow flowers. 
Those of the late Dutch Honeysuckle are red, 
passing off to yellow when fading. Some 
shade of yellow, indeed, is the more common 
hue amongst them, but our native Honey¬ 
suckle is sometimes tinted with red, as in 
Late Dutch. The first fortnight of Novem¬ 
ber is the best time to plant the above. 
VEGETABLES. 
3092. Marrows Failing to Fruit. 
Could you inform me why it is that my 
Marrow plants will not produce any fruits? 
They are fine, large plants, but not one Mar¬ 
row have I got out of four plants. There is 
abundance of bloom, but no Marrows. If 
you tell me how to get Marrows from them 
I shall be obliged. (J. G. Bishop, Middle¬ 
sex.) 
You do not tell us the conditions under 
which your plants are growing, whether in 
frames or in the open ground. As they are 
strong, we presume they are too much 
sheltered in consequence, especially if in 
frames. Another-supposition is that they re¬ 
quire an abundance of water to make them 
hold their fruits. They do not bear well 
unless they have a lusty vigour well sus¬ 
tained by root action. You should therefore 
get the stems thinned out by removing some 
of the weaker shoots where necessary, or by 
spreading them further over the ground. If 
they are in frames, the sashes should not 
now cover them, so that some of the steins 
might be allowed to run outside the frame. 
Keep them well watered in hot, dry weather. 
You might hand fertilise some of the flowers 
by taking those flowers that have no berry 
beneath, pull off the corolla, and lay the 
anthers into those flowers that have a fruit 
or berry below the corolla, that is, at the 
base outside. We have made these sugges¬ 
tions as it is only guesswork on our part as 
to what is the matter with your Marrows. 
If you follow out the directions and if your 
ground is sufficiently exposed to sun and 
air, you should have no difficulty in getting 
Marrows. 
3093. Tomatos with Side Shoots. 
Some of my Tomato plants are sending 
out side shoots with clusters of flower buds 
on them. I am told these should be cut off, 
but surely the flowers should not be cut 
away. A hint or two would much oblige. 
(B. T. W., Wilts.) 
It is necessary to regulate the growth of 
Tomatos, otherwise they might continue 
sending out side shoots indefinitely all the 
season, and setting fruits which they could 
never ripen before the end of our season. 
The bunches of flowers do not appear in the 
axils of leaves but on the side of the stem. 
Every leaf will give rise to a shoot at its 
base in course of time, and if you have any 
scarcity of flowers, or bunches of fruit near 
the base of the plant, it might be well to let 
some of these side shoots bear one bunch, so 
as to get the requisite number of bunches as 
early in the season as possible. All the 
other side shoots on the plant should be 
pinched out at an early stage of their growth. 
If you have about four or five bunches of 
fruit on a stem the top of the main stem 
should be stopped likewise. All other shoots 
that make their appearance afterwards should 
be pinched out as soon as you can lay hold 
of them. 
FRUIT. 
3094. Sowing; Seeds of Cape Goose¬ 
berry. 
I am a constant reader of your paper and 
should be glad if you would let me know 
through its medium the proper time to sow 
the seed of the Cape Gooseberry, and whether 
the plants will grow out of doors. (George 
Dyer, Somerset.) 
The Cape Gooseberry is a shrubby plant, 
and must be of some size before it will fruit. 
You should therefore sow it at once, so as to 
lose no time. Place the seeds in a tempera¬ 
ture of 60 degrees, just as you do when 
raising Tomatos, and when the plants have 
made one rough leaf pot them off singly in 
thumb pots. As the latter show roots well 
through the soil, repot them from time to 
time into a larger size. During November 
and December they will not make much, if 
any growth, but whenever growth is taking 
place you should encourage them by shifting 
them on. Keep them in a greenhouse till 
the weather gets fairly fine in May, then 
harden them off by placing them in a cold 
frame for a short time and then plant them 
out in a well-prepared position at the foot 
of a south, south-east, or south-west aspect 
wall. If you have a number of them, they 
should be planted about four feet apart and 
trained upon the walls. The Cape Goose¬ 
berry should prove hardy in your seaside 
position, as it is very nearly hardy in the 
neighbourhood of London. If planted out 
in a greenhouse, however, the plant would 
grow best and ripen more fruits than it 
would against a wall in the open. With a 
number of plants, you can try both plans. 
GARDEN ENEMIES. 
3095. Blue Bottle Flies on Grapes. 
Having been a reader of your valuable 
paper for a great number of years, can you 
