THE GARDENING WORLD . 
535 
August 15, 1908. 
1 ' some days after repotting. Towards 
•: end of April, the sun quickly dries 
: soil, the plants must be examined 
: ce or thrice daily as to water, and 
Cl rer be allowed to suffer for the want of 
From early May the plants must be 
^dually hardened by being given more 
atilation, and may be stood outside 
t der a south wall towards the 10th of 
\y down in our genial climate. At the 
.-ae time the state of the weather must 
I taken into consideration, as a few de- 
s ees of frost after cold rain or hail sto'rms 
I iv wreck the previous two month's work. 
■ mat os Out of Doors. 
To grow Tomatos out of doors with any 
i irked degree of success, a soutn wall 
:jst be given for the plants, as our sea- 
ns are so fickle; you may get a good 
ar now and again, and a satisfactory 
op finished well on plants in the open 
irden, but the past summer was a lesson 
us that one cannot rely upon maturing 
crop so treated. Respecting soil to 
ant in, it is a very great mistake to 
ford strong manure of any kind, it only 
icourages rank growth, which is not a 
rerunner of a good set of fruit. Better 
7 far to afford a mulch of manure, and 
miodical applications of manure water 
soon as the first berries begin to swell. 
Secure the plants to the wall, only re¬ 
ining the leading growth, pinching out 
1 side laterals once a fortnight, and 
opping the leader when three or four 
unches of fruit are seen to be set, and 
5 the colouring begins, any preponder- 
ace of foliage should be cut away, not a 
holesale removal of leaves, but a part of 
ach leaf that is likely to shade the fruit, 
hould the autumn prove a wet one, it is 
good plan to place a frame light in front 
f the plant, it will prevent the rain fall- 
ig on the fruit and foliage, and likewise 
ssist in ripening the fruit. 
In case of early frosts, I have pulled up 
he plants and hung them up in a vinery 
r other glass structure, where a good per- 
entage of the fruit has finished off satis- 
actorily. It is these wet seasons that 
iring the Potato disease fungus, which 
requently attack the Tomato out of 
loors, as it belongs to the same order as 
he Potato. The affected leaves and 
ruit, as soon as detected, should be cut 
i ff and burnt. 
(To be Continued.) 
-- 
iwanley College. 
The Board of Agriculture has conferred 
lpon the Horticultural College, Swanley, 
Cent, the distinction of being the first 
tollege to be recognised in future under 
:he new training college regulations as a 
place where women "students may take a 
:hird year’s training, devoted entirely to 
aorticulture. 
Dunfermline Rose Show. 
All the leading Rose growers in the 
United Kingdom forwarded exhibits to 
the Rose Show at Dunfermline, held 
under the auspices of the Carnegie Dun¬ 
fermline Trust, which numbered in all 
571; as against 430 last year. The Carnegie 
championship prize for 72 cut blooms, 
Roses of 36 distinct varieties, was awarded 
to Hugh Dickson, of Belfast, who also 
received the National Rose Society’s silver 
gilt medal for the best Hybrid Perpetual 
or Hybrid Tea Roses. The specimen 
shown was Caroline Testout. 
Address : The Editor, The Gardening 
World, 37 and 38, Shoe Lane, London, E.C. 
The Editor invites enquiries, which may 
cover any branch of gardening. Questions 
should be as brief as -possible and written on 
one side of the paper only; a separate sheet 
of paper should be used for each question. 
Replies cannot be sent by post. 
Garden Plans. —Gardeners who would make 
the best use of this column are invited to 
prepare and forward to us a rough outline 
drawing or plan of their gardens, indicating 
the position of beds and lawns, the charac¬ 
ter and height of the fence or wall; posi¬ 
tion of vegetable garden, orchard, etc. The 
north side of the garden and any over¬ 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It 
should also be stated whether the garden is 
flat or on a declivity, and all large trees 
should be marked. Particulars of the na¬ 
ture of the soil will also help us to give 
satisfactory replies. When such plans are 
received they will be carefully filed, with 
the name and address of the sender, and 
will be consulted by the Editor whenever an 
enquiry is sent. 
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. 
3100. Name and Treatment of Plant. 
Will you kindly tell me in your next issue 
of The Gardening World the name of the 
enclosed cutting. Is it hardy ? Also name 
the suitable position to grow it and other 
particulars. (E. Long, Yorks.) 
Your plant is a species of Mesembryan- 
themum,, but the flower had withered up. 
It is similar to the Hottentot Fig (M. edule), 
but smaller and would thrive under similar 
treatment. It is really a greenhouse plant, 
but may be grown in the open air during 
summer if you feel so inclined, planting it 
cut about the beginning of June. It should 
be potted in a compost consisting of two 
parts loam, one part sand and half-part 
leaf mould, with some finely-broken bricks 
to keep it porous. Give it a fair amount of 
water during summer if grown in pots and 
very little in winter Out of doors it will 
require no water. You can propagate it by 
cuttings about the beginning of September, 
allowing them to get partly dried by laying 
them on the potting bench for a day. Then 
insert them firmly in light sandy soil and 
leaf mould. Water them down immediately 
to settle the soil, but do not give them any 
more until they are really getting dry. 
Being of a succulent nature they require to 
be kept on the dry side at all times, except 
when making their growth during summer. 
ROOM PLANTS. 
3101. Campanula Drooping Away. 
■Could you kindly tell me through. The 
Gardening World what I can do with a 
Campanula. It seems to be drooping away. 
Can I take cuttings ? It is in a wooden box 
and the other day I saw a woodlouse. Do 
you think that they are destroying the 
roots It has been in the box about two 
years. (J. H. H., Beer, Devon.) 
It is just possible that woodlice might be 
attacking the roots if they are present in 
any number, but if the soil is properly ar¬ 
ranged they could not get at many of the 
roots. There may be something wrong with 
the drainage, seeing that you have had it ; n 
the box for two years. To save it the best 
plan would be to take cuttings of leafy 
shoots that have not flowered and the nearer 
you can get them from the base of the plant 
so much the better. Insert the cuttings 
firmly in very light sandy soil and water 
them down immediately with a rosed water¬ 
ing pot. Cover them with a handlight or 
bell-glass till rooted. 
3102. Geraniums in Winter. 
Gan you inform a first year novice whether 
potted Geraniums can be kept through the 
winter on a shelf in a warm kitchen? 
Should they be exposed to light or other¬ 
wise, and ought they to be watered fre¬ 
quently or not at all ? Also, is it possible 
to keep some in a fireless room upstairs ? 1 
should be very much obliged if you could 
let me know, as I have some fine plants, and 
means do not permit the expense of a glass¬ 
house. (F. Foley, Essex.) 
We daresay they could be kept on a shelf 
in a warm kitchen if it is fairly well 
lighted. We should keep them on the win¬ 
dow sill or on a table close to the window. 
They are really evergreen and would do 
best if watered when they require it. Just 
keep them on the dry side, but do not let 
them get dried up altogether. With a fire 
in the room possibly they might want water¬ 
ing once a week, but that is a matter for 
observation. You can also keep Geraniums 
in a fireless room upstairs, provided there 
is no severe frost. In that case you could 
take the plants awajr from the windows in 
very frosty nights, stand them near the 
wall of the room, and cover them with dry 
newspapers. They do not require fire heat, 
provided frost is not severe, and that is 
easily kept out in a room of a house. They 
will require less water where there is no 
fire. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
3103. Hardy Border Plants for Exhibi¬ 
tion. 
I should be much obliged if jmu would 
give me the names of a dozen hardy border 
flowers suitable for exhibition purposes in 
August. When would be the best time to 
plant them? (P. R. Woods, Derbyshire.) 
Hardy border flowers that bloom suffi¬ 
ciently late to be suitable for exhibition in 
August are Latfn'rus latifolius grandiflorus 
albus, Gaillardias,, Erigeron speciosus, Rud- 
beckia speciosa, Anemone japonica alba, 
Scabiosa caucasia, Echinops Ritro, Pent- 
stemon barbatus, Chrysanthemum King Ed¬ 
ward, or some other good variety, Heli- 
anthus multiflorus Soleil d’Or, Lobelia ful- 
gens Queen Victoria and Oenothera speci¬ 
osa. The sooner you can plant them in the 
autumn the better, so that if you get suffi¬ 
cient rain in September to make the border 
