AugUSt 22 , 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
549 
3 ver white or yellow. Whatever the colour 
shoula be clear, fresh and in prime condi¬ 
tion. The lower or older petals should 
3t be faded, as that is a sign that the flower 
over. Then the bloom should be of good 
ze for each particular variety. A fancy 
ahlia is precisely like a show variety, ex- 
:pt in colour. When the florets are striped 
ad mottled, or if tipped with white or 
Alow, all such are termed fancy Dahlias, 
he same rules apply as for show Dahlias. 
ROSES. 
127. Rose Trees. 
1 have a Gloire de Dijon against a south 
•all. During the spring it threw out four 
traight healthy shoots from the stem about 
in. to 4 in. above the ground. This grew 
ntil they were 4 ft. long, and my idea 
?as to nail them to the wall for next year 
nd cut away the old wood. During my 
bsence the man who does a bit of garden- 
ng for me came and cut them off. I was 
ery mad with him, for I consider he has 
poiied the tree for next year, but he con- 
ends they should be cut away. Who is 
ight? (Rosery, Leicestershire.) 
vVe consider that yc.ur assistant did wrong 
n cutting away young stems from a Gloire 
le Dijon Rose. It is often necessary to get 
•oung shoots from the base to renew a plant 
•ntirely, but in any case a succession of 
•oung stems is an advantage as it enables 
/ou to get good Roses and plenty of them 
; rom near the base of the plant. It does 
lot necessarily follow that you will not 
lave any Roses next year, provided you nail 
m a number of shoots made this year on 
;he old stems, so as to cover the available 
space. The cutting of the shoots may in- 
luce them to start into fresh growth again 
his year, though it is more likely they will 
lot move again till next year, if they do so 
hen, as Gloire de Dijon is very variable 
in its behaviour, dependent largely upon 
the situation and whether it has a large 
top of old stems or not. You should cau¬ 
tion your man, however, not to cut way 
young stems in future, because so long as 
they are well ripened during the season they 
have been made they will furnish you with 
the best Roses in the following year. 
3128. Making a Rose Bed. 
Through the medium of your valuable 
paper could you tell me how best to make 
a Rose bed and also the best position for 
such? (W. D., Lancs.) 
Wherever you make a bed for Roses it 
should be in an open and sunny position. 
Keep it well away from trees, hedges and 
large bushes that would send roots into the 
bed and thus run away with the food and 
moisture intended for the Roses. At the 
same time shelter from the north and east is 
advantageous, and in any case you should 
avoid making a Rose bed in a wind-swept 
situation. If the soil is light, trench it 
2 ft. to 3 ft. deep and incorporate with it 
some heavy manure, such as pig or cow 
manure. On the other hand, if the soil is 
heavy, trench the ground, keeping the best 
material on the top, and use plenty of horse 
manure. Do this in good time, so that it 
will have a fortnight to settle before plant¬ 
ing at the beginning of November. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
3129, Fuchsias and Veronicas. 
Can you tell me the names of anv Fuchsias 
and shrubby Veronicas that would be hardy 
in this district, and say how far apart they 
should be planted? I have part of a border 
I want to plant them with, as I think the 
two different forms of plant would show 
one another off. (A. M. D., Midlothian.) 
No doubt these two kinds of plants would 
answer very well m a border, but the 
Fuchsias are likely to grow faster and be¬ 
come bulky sooner than the Veronicas. 
They might, therefore, be planted behind 
the Veronicas, and if placed alternately 
with them, the one will not hide the other 
too much. Some of the Veronicas will also 
be small to begin with, so that you would 
have to plant them not more than 13 in. or 
18 in. apart if you intend them to cover the 
ground. The Fuchsias might well be 3 ft. 
apart, though if you plant them at iS in. to 
begin with you can afterwards get them 
at the required distance by lifting every 
alternate plant and planting it elsewhere. 
Fuchsias that would be suitable for your 
purpose are F. Riccartoni, F. macrostemma, 
F. m. variegata (often named F. gracilis 
variegata) and F. globosa. There are several 
others which would possibly succeed with 
you, though the above, in our opinion, are 
the hardiest. In the way of shrubby 
Veronicas we would recommend V. Traversii, 
V. parvifolia, V. pinguifolia, V. salicifolia, 
V. diosmaefalia and V. decussata. The two 
last named and V. pinguifolia are the 
dwarfest growing and should certainly not 
be planted behind Fuchsias. 
3130. Rhododendrons Flagging. 
Some of my Rhododendron bushes are 
flagging very much, and although I have 
given them some water they 'do not improve 
much. What am 1 to do? (Subscriber, 
Sussex.) 
Probably there is a good deal of chalk in 
your soil—at any rate, there is plenty in 
the near neighbourhood. In soils of that 
character Rhododendrons do not long keep 
in healthy condition if planted in the 
natural soil. The best plan in that case 
would be to take out the natural soil in 
spring to a depth of 2^ ft. and while avoid¬ 
ing the use of chalk material you should 
get peat and leaf mould, using this entirely 
or at least more than half of what is neces¬ 
sary to fill the trenches that have been taken 
out. Peat alone would be sufficient if you 
can procure it, but leaf soil is a substitute. 
Before you can expect Rhododendrons to 
thrive for any length of time in soil that 
contains chalk, it is necessary to replace the 
soil by something different than the natural 
material. Even if you get loam from an¬ 
other source it would be well to use a half 
either of peat or leaf mould. 
3131. Propagating Lavender. 
When is the best time to propagate Laven¬ 
der and what is the best way to do it? I 
have only a cold frame. I will look in The 
Gardening World for an answer. (D. 
Bentley, Berks.) 
Lavender may be propagated in a variety 
of ways, but chiefly by cuttings and by 
layering. It can be done at the present time 
in a cold frame by getting short side shoots 
of young wood, taking them off with a small 
heel of the old wood if possible. Insert 
these firmly in very sandy soil, water them 
with a rosed watering pot, and keep the 
frame closed until the plants show signs 
of having rooted. Cuttings can also be taken 
in September and put in trenches, allowing 
a foot between the trenches. You can 
also readily layer Lavender in the spring 
by bending down some of the branches and 
covering the bent portion with soil. Even 
although not cut in the same way as is done 
with 'Carnations, the layered stems will 
produce roots during the course of the 
summer. 
3132. Shifting Philadelphus coronar- 
ius. 
Will you kindly inform me through the 
columns' of The Gardening World when is 
the best time to shift a Philadelphus coro- 
narius, which has been in its present position 
about four years and is shut in by other 
trees ? (G. F. Cousens, Middlesex.) 
The shrub may be lifted with safety about 
the end of October or the beginning of 
November, when the soil is quite moist with 
autumn rains. At present it is far too dry 
for the transplanting of shrubs. The leaves 
will have mostly fallen by that time, but 
in any case they will have fulfilled their 
mission. Seeing that the plant has been 
established for four 3'ears, you should dig; 
a trench round it, avoiding the' cutting of 
the roots as much as possible, the aim being 
to get plenty of fibrous roots, and if you 
can leave a fair ball of soil with the plant 
so much the better. Tread the soil firmly 
about the roots, but if properly moist it 
will require no water at that time of the 
year. 
3133. Swellings on Leaves of a Shrub. 
I should be much obliged if you would 
tell me the name of the disease from which 
this shrub is suffering. Most of the leaves 
on this shrub, as you may observe, have 
white excrescences on them. (B. E. Thomas, 
Breconshire.) 
The specimen you sent us was a branch 
of the grey Sallow (Salix cinerea). The 
leaves have, at an earlier stage, been punc¬ 
tured by a sawfly named Nematus gallicola, 
which laid an egg in each place that was 
punctured. From this a grub hatches out, 
and as the grub gets larger so do the 
pea-like swellings on the underside of the 
leaf. You will find a caterpillar in each 
if you cut it open. As the enemy lives 
inside the leaf you cannot apply any in¬ 
secticide that would be of any service. The 
only way is to remove the leaves while the 
galls are still quite young and allow them 
to dry up, thus killing the caterpillar in¬ 
side. Many of them are now in an advanced 
stage of development, and it would be more 
certain to be effective if you burn the leaves 
containing the galls. This will, no doubt, 
make the tree rather bare but not kill it, and 
next year you will be saved a deal of 
trouble if there are no infested Sallows in 
your neighbourhood. 
3134. Transplanting Wild Heather. 
Last year I found some very pretty 
varieties of Heather, including a scarlet one 
and a white one. I brought these two home 
and planted them in the garden, but al¬ 
though they lived through the winter they 
gradually died when the fine weather began. 
Do you think it possible to grow the Wild 
Heather in the garden, and if so, please tell 
me how to treat it. (W. Rea, Sussex.) 
Most plants belonging to the Heath tribe 
like special treatment in the matter of soil. 
In a wild state their roots always live in 
connection with a fungus or microbe which 
enables them to procure the necessary food 
in the poor peaty soils in which they grow. 
It is, therefore, necessary to imitate these 
conditions to some extent in the garden, and 
if you do so you will have no difficulty in 
establishing the Wild Heather in your gar¬ 
den. They require a certain amount of 
moisture, but if you select a cool situation 
it may be near trees or houses. If you use 
a considerable quantity of peat or leaf 
mould in the soil it will enable the Heath 
plants to grow. Peat is, of course, the best 
material, as it is most durable, not rotting 
so soon as leaf mould. If you have a moist 
situation in the garden you could choose 
that for preference, because then it would be 
unnecessary to plant the Heather in a shady 
situation. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
3135. Chrysanthemum Leaves becom¬ 
ing Brown. 
Will you kindly tell me what is wrong 
with the enclosed leaves of Chrysanthemum ? 
I have sent two, one of the earlier and one 
of the later stage of the disease. It started 
