THE GARDENING WORLD. 
August 29, 1908. 
called black stripe. The Tomato is Sutton’s 
Sunbeam. (Red Roots, Lancs.) 
We have been keeping your Tomato under 
observation since you sent it, but we fail 
to detect the presence of any fungus in con¬ 
nection with it. We have often seen Toma- 
tos whch refused to colour up in the proper 
way. The skin at the portions which do 
not colour up usually remains hard or 
leathery. We think the condition of the 
Tomhto is due largely to the lack of some 
food material in the soil. In the case of 
Tomatos this food that is in too small pro¬ 
portion is potash. Next year you can put 
this to the test by using a good dressing of 
wood ashes or kajnit on the soil of the bor¬ 
der, or in the potting compost if they are 
grown in pots. This would, of course, be 
additional to any of the other manures which 
you may apply. The particular variety 
does not seem to matter, as both red and 
yellow ones are liable to present this ap¬ 
pearance under the conditions which bring 
it about. A fungus, if present, will cause 
the Tomato to decay in a short time. 
FRUIT. 
316 2. Pruning Gooseberries. 
Would you give me some hints about prun¬ 
ing Gooseberries ? (A Many Years’ Sub¬ 
scriber, Yorks.) 
There are two ways of pruning Gooseber¬ 
ries in winter, but we shall describe the most 
popular method at the present day. After 
the leaves are off the bushes you may com¬ 
mence. Look over the bushes and see 
whether any branches are resting upon the 
ground. In that case if the branch can be 
spared it should be cut away, as Goose¬ 
berries produced too near the ground are 
liable to be splashed with mud during thun¬ 
der showers. You can next thin out the 
bushes bv removing all twigs that have al¬ 
ready borne and leaving a sufficient number 
of the shoots made during this year. They 
should not be allowed to crowd the bush, as 
the hand should be able to get amongst the 
branches to gather the berries without being 
torn by the thorns on the shoots. If the 
young shoots are too numerous remove those 
that are too weak to bear. Ihose that are 
left may be slightly shortened back to a 
good bud. If the bushes are inclined to get 
too crowded with young shoots and leaves 
in summer, it would be well to shorten back 
those that are not likely to be required to 
bear fruit in the following year. A good 
plan would have been to have given us some 
idea of the nature of your bushes. It may 
happen that they have been neglected and 
require reducing to shape. If so, you could 
let us know and we shall endeavour to help 
you. 
3163. Preparing Ground for Rasp¬ 
berries. 
Would you kindly say what is the best 
way to prepare the ground for planting 
Raspberry canes and the best manure to 
use ? Do they require any staking ? 1 have 
seen them in a field without any stakes and 
they seem to do all right. (H. Duncan, 
Yorks.) 
The best plan to set about tnis operation is 
to get some manure, laying it in heaps upon 
the ground. If the land is heavy, horse 
manure or a liberal quantity of old hotbed 
manure or even leaves would benefit Rasp¬ 
berries largely. If the soil is light, cow 
manure would be a much better material. 
Trench the ground 2 ft. deep and in using 
the manure it need not be put more than 1 ft. 
down. This should be done early in Oc¬ 
tober, so that the ground would have time to 
settle before planting in November. The 
canes should be cut down to 18 in. m height 
the first year, or to a foot if they are weak, 
so that no staking will be necessary the first 
year.. In an open field Raspberries are held 
in checK because of the exposure, while the 
ground is usually dry in summer and may 
not be over-rich. In a garden, however,, it 
should be made much more fertile, so that 
the canes after they get established would 
get to a height of 5 ft. or 6 ft. Staking is 
then advantageous as it enables you to get 
a much heavier crop owing to the length of 
cane. Five feet should be allowed between 
the lines and the plants may be 3 it. apart 
in the lines. One stout stake would be suf¬ 
ficient if the canes are reduced every year 
to the suitable number for tying to the 
stakes. 
3164. Planting- Strawberries. 
A writer in The Gardening World re¬ 
cently advises the planting of Strawberries 
at once. I have some rooted runners, but 
a friend says they should not be planted till 
spring. What is your opinion about this? 
(H. Duncan, Yorks.) 
You can rarely get the best results from 
a plantation of Strawberries if planting is 
delayed till spring. The best plan, there¬ 
fore, would be to make the fresh plantation 
as soon as the ground can be prepared. In¬ 
deed, you can make a fresh plantation at 
any time from the beginning of August to 
the end of September, the earlier the better, 
as the plants get well established and make 
better growth when the warm weather re¬ 
turns in spring. 
GARDEN ENEMIES. 
3165. Insect Cutting Rose Leaves. 
Some insect or other has been cutting the 
leaves of my Roses to shreds, making round 
and oval holes in them. Can you tell me 
the name of the pest and say how I can 
put a stop to it ? The trees are very un¬ 
sightly and they must suffer for loss of fo¬ 
liage. Trusting you can help me. (J. Bea¬ 
ton, Middlesex.) 
Judging from your description, your 
plants are being damaged by the Rose leaf 
cutter bee (Megachile centuncularis). .Bees 
of this class must be very numerous in your 
neighbourhood, but it is practically impos¬ 
sible to deal with them unless you can find 
their nests. These are made in old walls, 
in gravel paths and in soil that is firm, 
usually the lawn. It would be well, there¬ 
fore, to keep a watch for them and, if pos¬ 
sible, to track them to their nests in the 
ground. These could be dug up at night 
when the occupants are in and destroyed. 
If they have made their nests in holes in 
walls have these holes cemented. It would 
be worth your while employing a sharp- 
eyed boy to look out for the nests of these 
bees, especially during the early part of the 
season. The pieces of leaves you mention 
are used for making cells in which the bees 
store food and rear their young. You will 
see this for yourself if you discover any of 
their nests. 
3166. Rose Leaves Brown. 
Can you kindly say what is the matter 
with the enclosed leaves taken off one of my 
Rose trees? They are all, indeed, full of 
little holes, brown and dying. I have never 
seen anything like it before and would like 
to know the cause and remedy, if possible. 
(Rose Leaf, Gloucester.) 
The leaves of your Roses have evidently 
been attacked by the Rose slug worm (Erio- 
campa Roaae). It is too late to do anything 
now, as the insect has, no doubt, passed into 
the pupa stage in the soil. You may still, 
however, keep a watch on your Roses, be¬ 
cause a second brood of young is sometimes, 
if not always, produced during each season. 
In that case, the second brood should appear 
about this time. If they do appear on the 
bushes syringe them with Hellebore wash, 
and, this being poisonous, the slug worms 
get destroyed when eating the leaves. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
3167. Address of Publisher. 
Will you kindly give me in your nexl 
issue of The Gardening World the address 
of the publisher of “ The Perfect Garden,’ 
by Walter P. Wright, and oblige? (Roberi 
Fraser, Dumbartonshire.) 
The publisher of the book is Mr. Gran 
Richards, 7, Carlton Street, London, S.W 
NAMES OF PLANTS . 
(J. E. S.) x, Berberis wallichiana; 2. 
Ceanathus azureus; 3, Olearia Haastii (New 
Zealand Daisy Bush); 4, Leycesteria for- 
mosa; 5, Phlox paniculata; 6, Lavandula 
Spica (Lavender). 
(D. L.) 1, Coreopsis tinctoria; 2, Lavatera 
trimesitris; 3, Nemophila insignis; 4, Linum 
grandiflorum rubrum; 5, Malope trifida : 
6, Clarkia elegans; 7, Calendula officinal! 
flore pleno. 
(T. Henderson) 1, Coreopsis grandifiora 
2, Galega officinalis; 3, Helianthus mult: 
floras flore pleno; 4, Epilobium hirsutum. 
(G. Mills) 1, Buddleia variabilis; 2 
Veronica Traversal; 3, Spiraea Douglasii 
4, Nepeita Glechoma variegata; 5, Hibiscu. 
syriacus. 
(A. G. B.) 1, Teucrium Chamaedrys; 2 
Thymus Serpyllum lanuginosus ; 3, Linarii 
pallida; 4, Linaria Cymbalaria; 5, Cam 
panula portenschlagiana; 6, Campanul: 
caespitosa. 
(R. D.) 1, Begonia metal 1 ica; 2, Begonii 
weltoniiensis. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED 
Fisher, Son, and Sibray, Royal Nur 
series, Handsworth, near Sheffield.—Fisher’ 
Bulbs. 
John Peed and Son, West Norwood, Lon 
don, S.E.—Peeds’ Bulbs. 
Robert Sydenham, Tenby Street, Birming 
ham.—Unique Bulb List. 
W. Drummond and Sons, Ltd., Stirling 
Scotland.—-Drummond’s Flower Bulb Cata 
logue. 
McHattie and Co., Northgate Street, am 
St. Werburgh’s Place, Chester.—McHattie’ 
Autumn List of Bulbous Flower Roots. 
-- 
Vanda amoena Sanderae. 
This is supposed to be a natural hybrii 
between V. Roxburgii a'nd V. caerulea 
The flowers are similar in shape to thos 
of the first-named parent and veined i; 
the' same way; but the colour is quite dii 
ferent. They are closely veined, am 
suffused with blue on a creamy grounc 
One spike carried eight flowers on th 
plant shown by Messrs. F. Sander an 
Sons on the 4th inst. Award of Merit b 
the R.H.S. 
Decaying Orchards. 
A Board of Agriculture leaflet says tlu 
probably the majority of existing oi 
chards have long passed their best day 
and are now dying out. In unfavourabl 
seasons the supply of fruit is by no mear 
equal to the demand, with the result th; 
prices are high. The step rccon 
mended is the planting of fresh orchard 
and Lord Carrington gives full detai. 
as to how this can be most successful 1 
accomplished. The replanting of ol 
orchards is condemned primarily' becau: 
the soil of an old orchard is impoverishe. 
of the food elements needed by Appl 
trees, and also because of the risk < 
infection by insect and fungus pests. 
