578 
told us what you wish to grow we should 
have given you more precise particulars. 
See under “Soils and Manures” for the 
making of a hotbed in next week’s issue. 
317 2. Violets in a Cold Frame. 
Last spring you gave- me some instructions 
how'to renew a bed of Violets and I carried 
out the instructions. They have done so 
well that I now want to try my hand at 
growing some in a frame for winter flower¬ 
ing. Please give me the necessary instruc¬ 
tions how to proceed and much oblige (A 
Subscriber, Devon.) 
See the answer to D. B. Drew on “Forcing 
early Violets.” In your mild locality it 
would probably supply you with a fair 
quantity of Violets without hard forcing if 
you merely make up a frame at the end of 
September, using fermenting leaves and 
manure mixed as described in that plan. 
In mild winters Violets could often be had 
in plenty with the use of very little manure 
if sheltered by a frame, but if you require 
to be in good time in spite of the weather, 
then it is chiefly a question of greater depth 
of fermenting manure and renewing the out¬ 
side linings to the frame from time to time. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
3173. Campanula pyramidalis Not 
Flowering. 
How long does it take Campanula pyra¬ 
midalis to come into bloom from the time 
they are sown ? I have several lines of 
that in the border that was sown two years 
ago, this being their second summer, yet 
none of them have bloomed, although they 
appear quite healthy. Why is this ? I 
understood they were biennials. (R. A. 
Martin, Sussex.) 
The above Campanula is usually regarded 
as a biennial and treated from that point 
of view, although under certain conditions 
it proves more or less perennial. As a rule, 
it is not of much value after it flowers. It 
should have flowered this season if it had 
been properly treated the first year by giv¬ 
ing the seedlings plenty of room when they 
were transplanted. We presume that they 
are too thickly planted in the lines and in 
that case your best plan would be to thin 
out all the smaller ones, or until you leave 
12 in. to 18 in. between every two plants. 
Those that are lifted could, of course, be 
planted elsewhere about the end of Septem¬ 
ber if the ground is fairly moist then, It 
is sufficiently moist in various parts of the 
country at the present time, but we think 
it inadvisable to lift too early in case we 
may get dry and even warm weather before 
this month is out. At the end of September, 
however, they will have time to become re¬ 
established in their new situation, while 
those that are left will grow more vigor¬ 
ously owing to the space left between them. 
3174. Transplanting Hollyhocks. 
I have a fine bed of Hollyhocks which 
seem rather crowded, but as there are some 
fine varieties among them I would like to 
put them in another part of the garden, 
where they cari be better seen from- the 
w’ndows. Will they bush out—that is to 
say, make a number of stems, and if so, 
what is the best way to stake them without 
being unsightly? (C. Wilkins, Kent.) 
You can mark the Hollyhocks, which you 
admire most at the present time, and leave 
them until growth is completed about the 
middle or end of October, or even earlier, 
when you can cut the stems down and lift 
the plants with plenty of roots. You can 
then transfer them to that part of the garden 
most suitable. The soil should be well 
prepared for them by deep digging or 
trenching and manuring, if this is necessary. 
Plant them with all their roots, tread the 
ground firmly and we should think in most 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
cases they will produce a number of stems 
next year. If there are short shoots at the 
base at the time you cut down the tall ones 
you are certain to have a number of stems. 
If you select a sunny position for them the 
stems will grow sturdily and require very 
little, if any, staking. Indeed, if you put 
a string round the stems, so that all will 
be connected with one another, the one will 
help to support the other without staking. 
This should be done before they get 
weighted down by wind or rain and staking 
will then be unnecessary, unless the situation 
is exposed to wind. Bamboo rods are nea-t 
and easily hidden, if stakes must be used. 
3175. Sub-tropical Bed. 
I have a plant of Gunnera and wish to 
make a sub-tropical bed of hardy plants. 
What would you recommend to plant as an 
edging to it ? What is the best time to get 
and plant the same ? Do the plants require 
anv special treatment in the way of soil ? 
(E. J. W., Hants.) 
During the first few years the Gunnera, 
may not take up much space, unless it is 
already a strong plant. According to the 
size of the bed, you may have a single or a 
double edging of the broad-leaved Funkias. 
For instance, if you desire to" make a double 
edging you could plant a line of Funkia 
sieboldiana immediately around the Gun¬ 
nera, as it is the strongest growing of all 
of them. A line of Funkia subcordata, or 
its variety F. s. grandiflora, would make 
a good subject for an outer edging, as the 
leaves would be a little dwarfer, of a light 
shining green and smaller, thus making a 
contrast with the sea-green leaves of the 
other species. We should recommend you 
to trench the bed 21 ft. to 3 ft. deep before 
planting anything, as the Gunnera, especi¬ 
ally, will root deeply, while the deeply 
trenched soil will also hold the water better 
in summer. When the natural soil is taken 
out you could mix it with plenty of leaf 
soil and even some well decayed cow ma¬ 
nure. The deep soil and the manures added 
will help to retain the moisture in the soil 
and cause a vigorous growth of the plants. 
March is the best time to do this. 
317 6. Weed or Flower. 
Please tell me the name of the enclosed 
specimen, and say whether it is a weed or a 
useful flower: If a weed, please let me know 
how I can get rid of it. The roots come 
through a high wall from my neighbour’s 
garden. (L. Sweet, Middlesex.) 
The 'leaf you sent was that of Polygonum 
cuspidatum, which may be regarded as a 
weed, if it comes up in your flower borders 
or beds where it is not wanted. It may, how¬ 
ever, be grown to advantage where space 
will allow of its attaining something like its 
natural vigour, so that it can flower in due 
season. The rapid growth of the red stems 
of a strong plant gives the plant a sub-tropi¬ 
cal appearance, and, indeed, it may be grown 
for this purpose and encouraged to make as 
vigorous growth as possible. It will then 
become covered with a profusion of small 
white .flowers during September or October. 
It will be well to take what steps you can 
to prevent it coming into your borders 
where it is not desired. In that case your 
best plan would be to take out a trench of 
some depth along the side of the wall, re¬ 
moving every bit of the root you find, if you 
do not want the plant to grow there. The 
crevices of the wall may then be cemented 
and chips of stone driven in while the cement 
is still soft. This will serve to keep the 
plant from coming through the wall. 
3177. Points of a Cactus Dahlia. 
I should -be pleased to have an 'account of 
the points to be looked for in a Cactus Dah¬ 
lia for exhibition. (H. Staddon, Essex.) 
Cactus Dahlias may be shown in bunches, 
a convenient number being six, or as single 
September 5, 1908. 
blooms on boards like show Dahlias. Ir. 
bunching, the flowers may be of medium si, 
but they must be of the modern Cactus for ’ 
The florets should be long and rolled .up t 
the sides or revol-ute so as to appear v <; 
narrow and prolonged into a long, slenct 
point. The blooms should be full, and t 
that stage of development when "they assu k 
their -best colour or colours. They shoil 
also have long stalks, and if the latter .a 
stout, so much the better, but. for bunchi ‘ 
they may be supported by a wire to he i 
them imposition. The points to be looked i- 
in an exhibit include effective, arrangeme. 
or setting up. This would apply to the no 
arrangement of the flowers in a bunch so 
to look all one way. The proper distributi 
of the different colours would also tell 
an arrangement. Colour and freshness a 
also strong points. The form and size of t 
flower also tell with .the judges. Very lar 
size is not looked for in bunches, as rhe bi 
gest blooms should be displayed singly . 
boards. All of the blooms forming a bun 
should, however, be of equal size. The foi 
varies in different varieties, as the flor< 
may be straight and pointing in all dim 
tions, or incurved to a varying degree. Tb 
must not be flat nor fluted, otherwise th 
would not be true 'Cactus Dahlias, but t! 
long to- the class known as decorative Da 
lias. The centre should be good, whatev 
the form of the flower. 
ROSES. 
317 8, White Fluff on Rose Trees. 
A Rose tree which had mildew on it j 
summer has now got a white woolly-lookin 
fluff upon some flower stems and buds. Ca. 
you say what it is, and if injurious? If s<i 
can I get rid of it in any way? (L. Swee' 
Middlesex.) 
The white woolly material you mention i 
no doubt, the second stage of the mildey 
which is more troublesome than the first an 
more difficult to get rid of. Sulphur has r 
effect upon it, and its presence merely ind 
cates that the mildew which appeared ear-lif 
in the season has not been destroyed. You 
best plan now would be to cut off the top 
of the stems that are covered with the wooll 
matter, removing any flower buds which ma 
be in this condition upon the plant, as the 
are not likely to open satisfactorily afte 
they have been enveloped by the web-lik 
felt produced by the fungus. All these poi 
tions that are out away should be burned, a 
they contain the resting spores of the fungu.- 
which will lie (through the winter and attac 
your Roses again early in the season. T 
make sure that any spores about are mori 
effectually destroyed, you could syringe th 
bushes and the ground round about ther 
with a solution of sulphide of potassium a 
the rate of ^ oz. to a gallon of wafer. Thi 
will not hurt the foliage, so that you ca: 
spray right over -the bushes -after having re 
moved the felted woolly portions. 
317 9. Roses Not Making: Growth. 
My Roses made .good growth in spring, bu 
since they finished flowering they do no, 
seem to have made much growth at all. Di 
you think they require a stimulant? (R. A 
Martin, Sussex.) 
The long spell of dry, warm weafhe 
which we had -recently must be held account 
able for the poor growth made by Roses dur 
ing the past month. It does not apply t< 
all of them, however, but chiefly to those re 
cently planted, especially Hybrid Perpetual; 
and Hybrid Teas. You could have helper 
them to some extent with watering, \vbil< 
stirring the ground at the surface would have 
been even of greater advantage. They map 
yet,, however, make some growth, as the rain 
fall has been considerable and the soil i; 
row in a much better condition for growth; 
You can apply nitrate of soda or sulphate oi 
ammonia at the rate of 5 oz. to a gallon oJ 
