580 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
September 5, 1908. 
water, spreading this over a square yard of 
ground. That will be some encouragement 
to the making of fresh growth. 
3180. Standard Rose Dying. 
I have a standard Rose tree which has 
died, qr rather the top of it, but it is sending 
out shoots from the middle of the stem. 
Should these be cut off, or what must I do 
with them ? The tree was planted two years 
ago and bloomed fairly well last year, but 
did not make much growth afterwards. What 
do you reckon was the reason for this be¬ 
haviour ? I have several others, but they 
seeni all right. (D. B. Drew, iSoms.) 
It is impossible to account for the be¬ 
haviour of Roses in all cases, as there is so 
much in connection with the individual speci¬ 
men itself. The Rose might have been 
damaged by frost, but it would-seem more 
than likely that the stock on which it was 
budded failed. You say the top has died, 
but the stem is sending out shoots from the 
middle. That would lead us to suspect that 
the stock, for some reason or other, failed, 
or has died hack from the top. The lower 
portion, at least, is still alive, and it might 
be worth your while to bud the stock afresh. 
Get buds from some variety which you like 
and insert them upon the base of the shoots 
that are pushing out from (the stock. If you 
are not acquainted with the process of bud¬ 
ding, you could possibly get a gardener or 
florist in your neighbourhood to insert the 
buds for you. It would then make a dwarf 
standard, if the buds take. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
3181. Flowering Climbers for North 
and South Walls. 
The front of my house faces the north, and 
I would like some flowering climbers that 
would succeed on it and brighten its face a 
little. Could you please name a few climbers 
that would do this? Also, I want a few to 
cover the other, which faces towards the 
south and gets more sun. (C. Wilkins, 
Kent.) 
Plants that would succeed on the north 
aspect of your house are Jasminum nudi- 
florum, which blooms in winter, J. officinale, 
flowering in summer, and Crataegus Pyra- 
cantha Lelandi, valued for its berries. If 
you would prefer Roses to any of these, you 
might plant Gloire de Dijon and Bouquet 
d’Or The south wall of your house would 
be a good place for Roses, and on that front 
you could plant Longworth Rambler, Reve 
d’Or and Mme. Alfred Carriere. 
3182. Climbers for Trellis. 
I have some wire trellis standing in front 
of my two bay windows about 18 in. from 
the wall. It measures 3 ft. 6 in. high and 
18 in. across it. I tried some Sweet Peas up- 
it this spring, but the insect pests cut them 
off. Can you suggest anything suitable to 
grow up it? I rather fancied Clematis, Rose 
or Honeysuckle. Would it be high enough 
for any of these ? The position is due south. 
It is on the main road, but we get the trams 
along, and there is plenty of dust. (Clema¬ 
tis, Leicestershire.) 
The trellis is scarcely high enough for a 
Clematis, if it succeeded in that position, 
but it is so liable to fail when planted 
in warm, sunny positions that we hesitate to 
recommend it. The safest one probably 
would be C. Jackmani, amongst the 
larger flowering ones, but the height of the 
trellis is not very great, and we have an 
idea that iron, in any form, is liable to get 
over-heated in summer in fully exposed 
situations, so that we should hardly recom¬ 
mend it. Honeysuckle would probably 
succeed. In the way of Roses we would 
recommend either Lady Gay or Dorothy 
Perkins, which would flower well even 
although on a trellis of 3 ft. 6 in. You 
would have to calculate that they would 
run up higher than that when making their 
growth and flowering in the summer time. 
Another plant, which we think would suc¬ 
ceed in summer, would be Ivy-leaved Pelar¬ 
goniums, some of which are very pretty,, 
especially the semi-double ones. The situa¬ 
tion is rather warm, dirty and dusty for 
the success of Sweet Peas, though you might 
succeed with Everlasting Peas (Lathyrus 
latifolius). If you particularly desire to 
groV Sweet Peas there you could rear them 
to some size in pots in a cold frame before 
planting them out in that situation, and 
have them well hardened before planting 
them. By that means they would escape 
insects. 
VEGETABLES, 
3183. Lettuce and Carrots for Early 
Spring Use. 
I have a three-quarter span-roofed vinery 
with a narrow border at the back of it 4 
ft. wide by 20 ft. long, and would like to 
grow some Lettuce for early spring use; also 
Carrots. Would you please advise me as to 
the best sorts, time of sowing, etc. (Colin 
May, Devon.) 
There is no reason why you should not 
grow Lettuce and 'Carrots in that vinery, 
provided it is well lighted. At the time you 
would commence, of course, the Vines would 
be quite leafless, therefore offering no ob¬ 
struction to light unless there were other 
subjects in the house. For the earliest 
supply of Lettuce you should sow now in 
a cold frame and at intervals till October 
for succession. As soon as the little plants 
have made a few leaves prick them out in 
soil in cold frames, keeping them there till 
February. Even in the cold frames it is 
better not to keep them too much ventilated, 
nor too close. If they are too much exposed 
to the air the leaves get hard and leathery, 
but on the other hand if kept too close they 
are liable to get soft and the plants would 
be more inclined to die off in foggy or wet 
weather. Then in February, these Lett ices 
that have been transplanted into frames 
could be carefully dug up with a trowel 
and planted in the border of a vinery. At 
the same time you can sow Carrots between 
them. The Carrots sown in February should 
be ready for pulling during April and May. 
The Lettuces we should recommend are the 
Cabbage Lettuces,, Tom Thumb, and Early 
Paris Market; Cos Lettuce Winter Beauty 
and Paris White. Carrots for early work 
are Early Horn and Parisian Forcing Horn. 
The point'we wish you to remember is that 
Lettuces sown from now to October will 
have formed a much better foundation for 
urging into growth in February than if you 
were to sow them in the vinery. 
FRUIT. 
3184. Ringing Apple Trees. 
1 see in The Gardening World about 
ringing Apple trees for growing large 
Apples. Will you please say when this 
should be done ? Also, how wide do you 
cut the ring, and what part of the tree ? 
I have a few hundreds of Apple trees, four 
and five years old, and would just like to 
try it on one of them. I am anxious to 
grow large Apples for exhibition. I am at 
present growing fine Apples by taking the 
small ones from the trees and only letting 
the trees carry two and three fruits. Will 
you give me a little information how to 
grow the largest Apples. Are they grown 
larger in Orchard houses in pots than out¬ 
side in the open? (Thomas Tootall, Lancs.) 
Any part of the stem above ground may 
be ringed or any branch on the tree may 
be so treated. The process consists in cut¬ 
ting out a ring of bark, cutting through 
the outer and the inner to the young wood. 
No w'der ring should be cut out than can 
be healed over in the first or second season 
after ringing. If this is ^ in. to t- i n . w id e 
it should therefore serve its purpose in 
checking the general flow of the sap during 
the first season. It all depends upon the 
age and vigour of the tree as to what dis- j 
tance may be healed over in a season. It 
should not be persisted in too much or the 
tree is liable to die, especially if the ring 
is too wide. The ring could be taken out 
during winter or spring. If you only get 
two or three Apples from a tree, it is not 
very profitable even for exhibition if the 
trees are of large size. Young trees up to 
the age of six or eight years after planting 
make good trees from which to get large 
fruits. Besides being young, it also means j 
that the roots are near the surface and there¬ 
fore within easy range of any manure that 
you may apply for feeding them. They are 
also easily supplied with water and liquid 
manure, and by mulching the ground the 
water holding power of the soil is increased. 
Young trees are usually also frequently 
transplanted and that encourages the de¬ 
velopment of fruit by the check it places 
on vegetative growth. There is no reason 
why you should not get as large fruits from 
trees out of doors, as you would under glass, 
provided you take the same amount of care 
with them. We presume that your garden 
or orchard is not too much exposed to"wind. 
Trees in pots especially take a good deal 
of attention throughout the growing season, 
and although we do not think you can get 
larger fruits from them, you get them 
with very bright clear skins, but it is just 
possible the judges at the show would dis¬ 
qualify fruits grown in an orchard house 
unless a class for fruits grown in that way 
were provided. You can often get fruits of 
handsome colour by growing them in pots 
or tubs and standing them outside to finish 
off after they are nearly full grown. They 
usually colour up well under such con¬ 
ditions. You may also remember that 
fruits under glass are not exposed to the 
same dangers when in bloom as trees out 
of doors in the case of late frosts or gales 
of wind in spring. 
(Some answers have been unavoidably held 
over till next week.J 
Gold Medal for Carter’s Seeds. 
The gold medal and championship in 
the open class for vegetables at the 
Shrewsbury Show was awarded to Lord 
Aldenham (gardener, Mr. Edwin Beckett), * 1 
Aldenham House, Elstree, Herts, which 
were produced with seeds supplied by 
Messrs. James Carter and Co. 
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