September 12, 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
591 
they left the frames. We have a suspicion 
that there must be something wrong in the 
treatment given them while being raised in 
the springtime. In many instances, far too 
much water is given to plants in boxes 
when the weather is anything but genial. 
When the surface soil is always in a sodden 
condition and the temperature is low it en¬ 
courages the growth of the damping-off 
fungus and possibly others of a like kind. 
The young plants under such conditions get 
injured just where they enter the soil. The 
injury may not be apparent at the time un¬ 
less it is closely looked for. The damage, 
if any, continues to extend after the plants 
have been put in their flowering quarters, 
and sooner or later they commence dying, 
sometimes in large numbers. As the true 
cause is unknown, we would suggest, there¬ 
fore, that you should avoid over-watering, 
while the young seedlings are struggling 
to establish themselves in boxes or pans, 
either before they have been transplanted 
cr afterwards and while still in the cold 
frames in spring. There is really no cure 
for it after they have got into the condition 
like those you sent us. 
3196. Plants for Covering Rose Beds. 
In front of our house are some Rose beds 
on the grass, but as I have given them plenty 
of room the ground looks rather bare from 
the windows.. What could I plant that would 
be attractive and yet not rob the Roses of 
nutriment? (William Riley, Cumberland.) 
Violas should succeed well in your part 
where the rainfall is fairly heavy and the 
atmosphere, therefore, suitably moist. If 
you choose to cover the beds with Violas, 
good white varieties are Snowflake and 
Countess of Hopetoun; a good light blue 
is Maggie Mott; and good dark blues are 
True Blue and Admiral of the Blues. 
3197. Getting Double Godetias Pure. 
I have a bed of double Godetia, which is 
mixed, some being single and others quite 
double. Can you tell me how to get them 
pure, so that there will be only double ones 
next year? (D. Chaimers, Northumber¬ 
land.) 
We think there is a good chance of the 
flowers being perfectly double next year, if 
you save seed only from the double ones. 
Besides sowing some to occupy certain beds 
or borders, you should make another sowing 
in a reserve part of the garden for the sake 
of experiment. If any single ones make 
their appearance amongst the doubles, have 
the single ones rooted up immediately. 
This will prevent any crossing by insects 
that might otherwise occur if you leave 
them in the mixed condition. The single 
ones should be uprooted at the beginning of 
the season of blooming, not at the end of 
it_ 
ROSES. 
3198. Rose Leaves Spotted Yellow. 
Please let me know what is the matter 
with my Rose trees (some leaves enclosed). 
The leaves are from a tree on a wall facing 
south which went the same way in June last. 
Now the young leaves seem to be going in 
the same way. I should be very much 
obliged for an explanation. (D. Chalmers, 
Northumberland.) 
The marking on the leaves might have 
been due to Vhrips or, more likely, the Rose 
leaf hopper (Typhlocyba Rosae), seeing that 
the attack is being repeated r.ow. In either 
case the remedy would be much about the 
same, namely, p, 0 f tobacco and t lb. of 
soft soap to a gallon of water. Boil the 
tobacco for an hour, pour off the liquid and 
repeat until you get the substance out of 
* e tobacco leaves. Dissolve the soap in hot 
water and put both solutions into one vessel 
and add water to make it up to six gal¬ 
lons. Syringe the foliage of the Roses on 
two successive evenings. This will destroy 
the hoppers or thrips that were doing the 
damage. We suspect the situation is rather 
dry for the Roses. Another year you should 
see that they are properly moist at the 
roots during the hot, dry weather, and sy¬ 
ringe overhead as well. 
3199. Pruning Niphetos in a Green¬ 
house. 
I have a Rose (Niphetos) in my conserva¬ 
tory grafted on a standard Brier. It was 
planted about a year ago and has now 
reached the top of the conservatory. Ought 
1 to cut it back, and how far and at what 
time? (Rosette, Surrey.) 
If you want your Rose to start into 
growth as early in the year as possible, you 
should cut back each of the shoots to four 
or six eyes at the beginning of November 
or when the leaves have partly fallen. This 
will cause the young shoots to commence 
pushing out again whenever the weather be¬ 
comes sufficiently genial, and with the shel¬ 
ter of the conservatory that will be much 
earlier than out of doors. If you do not 
desire the flowers to be early, then defer 
the pruning till January, February or 
March. We presume, however, that you 
want them to come into bloom before those 
out of doors, and in that case prune early. 
3200. Decorative Roses. 
I am writing for advice re making a Rose 
bed. I am making a bed 12 yds. long by 
2 yds. wide, with wood trellis at the back 
2 yds. high. I would take it as a favour 
if you would advise me as to six of the best 
Roses for decorative purposes to climb up 
the trellis. How many could I grow on 
the bed to grow for buttonholes, cut flowers 
and decoration combined ? Please give a 
list. . I may say I am a novice at Rose 
growing, but understand vegetable growing 
very well, thanks to The Gardening World, 
of which I am a constant reader. I would 
not be without it. It is a champion penny¬ 
worth. I may say my garden is well en¬ 
closed, open to the sun, with plenty of soil 
2 ft. to 3 ft. deep, medium sand} 1 - and well 
drained. (Sam Hartley, Yorks.) 
Six Roses to cover that trellis are 
Dorothy Perkins, Lady Gay, Crimson Ram¬ 
bler, W. A. Richardson, Bouquet d’Or, 
and Longworth Rambler. With six only, 
that will be 6 ft. of trellis for each variety. 
If you thoroughly understood the system of 
pruning, so as to keep the plants within 
small space, we should advise you to plant 
three rows in that bed, besides the row upon 
the trellis. We could also recommend the 
planting of two rows by putting the Roses 
closer. On the whole, however, we think 
it would fill- the bed better to plant three 
rows and give plenty of space between every 
two plants. In the back line, which should 
be 18 in. from the trellis, you could plant 
William A. Richardson,* Mrs. John Laing, 
Caroline Testout, Frau Karl Druschki, 
Grus an Teplitz, La France, Mme. Abel 
Chatenay, Gustave Regis,* Corallina, G. 
Nabonnand, Mme. Charles Grolez and Mme. 
Isaac Perriere. In the middle line plant 
Liberty,* Mme. Ravary, Mrs. W. J. Grant, 
Laurette Messimy, Ma Capucine,* Mme. 
Falcot,* Mme. Jean Dupuy,* Camoens, Cra- 
rnoisie Superieure, Eugenie Lamesch, com¬ 
mon China and K. A. Victoria. In the front 
line plant Gloire de Polvantha, Perle d’Or, 
Lady Battersea, Richmond, Princess de 
Sagan, Cecile Brunner, Mme. Pernet 
Ducher, Marquise de Salisbury, Beryl,* 
Fabvier, Lady Roberts and Amazone. The 
back line should be i| ft. from the trellis, 
the middle line should be 2 ft. from the 
back line, and the front line 6 in. from the 
edge. If 6 in. would be too near, then you 
can give a little less space between the front 
and the mi J d.le line. As your border is 
36 ft. long this would allow twelve Roses 
in each line at 3 ft. apart in the line. 
Plant the Roses alternately, so that there 
will be no pathways through the Rose bed. 
The * indicates buttonhole Roses. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
3201. Climbers for Trellis House. 
Will you kindly advise me on the follow¬ 
ing matter ? I have a small garden about 
30 ft. by 20 ft. at the back of a house, as 
per enclosed sketch. In the borders I grow 
various plants, Roses, etc. Over the arch 
1 have a purple Clematis and am training 
a Crimson Rambler on the trellis. I have 
now put up the small trellis house or arbour 
and would like to know what climbing sub¬ 
ject you would recommend. It is about 8 ft. 
high and backs on to a 5 ft. wooden fence 
between this and next garden. Would 
Honeysuckle do, and, if so, what description 
do you advise? I would like something 
scented. Then, alongside the house there 
are steps leading to the parlour. I would 
like to grow a scented climber up the wall 
by these steps and over the French win¬ 
dows. The distance from the steps to the 
fence is about 3 ft., and between the house 
and the fence 6 ft. There is no building 
on the other side of the fence, but a few 
fruit trees. V e get early morning sun only 
on the steps and wall. ’ Would a Jasmine 
grow there? If so, could I plant in a box 
or tub, as the base is concrete? (T. W. R., 
Essex.) 
The common Honeysuckle is just as good 
a type as you could get, as the flowers are 
large and deliciously scented. Some of the 
scented foreign ones have very small flowers. 
You could get either the Early Cream, the 
Early Dutch or the Late Dutch. All of 
these.are good varieties. The common white 
Jasmine (Jasminum officinale) would grow 
there well enough, but it probably would 
not flower very freely, owing' to the small 
amount of sunshine it would get, and the 
fact that you must grow it in a tub. It 
usually flowers best when it can grow vigor¬ 
ously, so that you could make provision for 
putting it in a tub of fair depth and supply 
it with plenty of water in summer. Even if 
it should bear no flowers the foliage is 
handsome. We believe Forsythia suspensa. 
would flower much more freely in that situ¬ 
ation than the Jasmine. It blooms in April 
before the leaves expand. The flowers, how¬ 
ever, are not scented although showy. 
3202. Privet with Blotched Leaves. 
Can you please tell me what is the matter 
with the leaves of Golden Privet enclosed ? 
'they have been going like this for some 
time past and the bushes look quite shabby. 
(T. Dugdale, Warwick.) 
The leaves of the Privet have been at¬ 
tacked by the maggots of a small moth. 
Your best plan would be to remove all the 
leaves that are blotched and have them 
burned. This should be done at once before 
the grubs attain full size. Possibly you 
would have been able to destroy a much 
larger number of them, or all of them, if 
you had commenced some weeks earlier; 
indeed, as soon as you noticed the discolor¬ 
ation of the leaves. If you slit open some 
of these leaves with a pin you will be able 
to see the cause of the mischief. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
3203. Chrysanthemums Backward in 
Budding-. 
My Chrysanthemums are very fine, but 
some are backward in budding. Some are 
going away strongly to the second crown, 
others have only just cast the July bud. 
Could I bring the latter on as first crowns 
and be sure of a uniform supply of bloom 
all at the same time? i(Rosette, Surrey.) 
NVe are afraid the dry season is respon- 
