October 3, 1908. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
639 
Your house is evidently a span-roofed 
structure, facing east and west, and in that 
case both Roses and Vine would succeed on 
either side with fair treatment. As the west 
aspect would be more likely to get sunshine 
for the longest period of time, you should 
plant the Vine on that which would be more 
conducive to the ripening of the Grapes. 
( limbing Roses suitable for such a house 
would be Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant, W. A. 
R-chardson, Marechal Niel, Climbing Ni- 
phet"S, Francois Crousse and Climbing Perle 
des Jardins. Pot Roses in that house would 
be more likely to do well in winter than in 
summer, because the leaves would then be 
off the Roses and the Vine, thus allowing 
them to enjoy an ample amount of light. If 
the house was kept slightly warm to induce 
the Roses to flower early that would also 
indue: the Vine and the climbing Roses to 
start into growth. A geed compromise, pro¬ 
bably, would be to keep the house without 
fire heat except during severe frost in win¬ 
ter, and then in spring commence firing regu¬ 
larly in order to start the Vine. The Roses 
in the pots would probably start long before 
the Vines and be coming into bloom before 
the foliage gets very thick. When in bloom, 
they could be taken to a conservatory or 
greenhouse, or the Roses cut as the case may 
be, and the pots could then be removed 
from the vinery in any case. They should 
not be stood directly in the open air if the 
weather is cold, but rather placed in a cool 
house or frame till the weather gets suffi¬ 
ciently settled to allow them to be stood on a 
bed of ashes in the open. They' could be re¬ 
potted in the autumn, if necessary, before 
taking them back into the house again. 
Varieties suitable for pet culture afe Lady 
Roberts, Mrs. J. I.aing, The Bride, White 
Maman Cochet, Lady Battersea, Captain 
Hayward, Bridesmaid, Mme. Hoste, Sunrise 
and Caroline Testout. 
3264. Tea and H.T. Roses for Bedding-. 
On the lawn in front of the house is a cir¬ 
cular bed 9 ft. in diameter and I wish to 
glow Roses in it. I would like Hybrid 
Teas and Teas, as I am told they are more 
continuous blooming than the Hybrid Per- 
petuals. Would you advise me with the 
names of a dozen of the best for this pur¬ 
pose. (Tea Rose, Surrey.) 
Splendid Tea Roses for your purpose are 
G. Nabonnand, Lady Roberts, White Maman 
Cochet, Marie van Houtte, Mrs. Edward 
Mawley and Souvenir de Pierre Notting. 
Equally choice H.T. Roses are La France, 
Caroline Testout, Dean Hole, Liberty, Mrs. 
W. J. Grant and Mme. A. Chatenay. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
3265. Hydrangea Not Flowering. 
A year ago last spring I planted a large 
Hydrangea, against a low wall and it 
flowered splendidly, but this year it has not 
thrown any blooms worth mentioning, al¬ 
though it has grown well. The points of 
some of the shoots got killed in winter, but 
otherwise the plant has not been injured as 
far as I can see. 'Can you assign any reason 
for its behaviour ? (G. Gardiner, Norfolk.) 
The fact that the points of the shoots got 
killed speaks for itself, if you mean the com¬ 
mon Hydrangea, which, we presume, you 
do. The buds that produce the flower trusses 
on this kind are produced during the pre¬ 
vious season, and if these , buds get killed 
you will get no flowers in the following 
year. In all probability, however, you will 
get flowers next year, if you can pre¬ 
vent the shoots from getting injured by 
frost during the forth . rning winter. Next 
winter may not be so severe as last, but in 
case of hard frost you should make an effort 
to protect the Hydrangea by suspending a 
mat from the top of the wall, so as to cover 
the Hydrangea, or, at least, all the tips of 
the stronger shoots, which are likely to pro¬ 
duce the flower buds. One method would be 
to nail or tie it to the wall, but if you can 
lay two or three heavy stones on the mat at 
the top of the wall you can then readily 
remove the mat in mild weather again, which 
would be equally beneficial to the plant by 
keeping it sturdy and healthy. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
3 266. Lifting Decorative Chrysanthe¬ 
mums. 
I have over two hundred C hrysanthemums 
of selected kinds which are strong and range 
from 3 ft. to 5^ ft. in height. Will you 
please tell me what size pots they should be 
in now. They have been reared cut of doors 
and we are thinking of taking into the con¬ 
servator}' those that are well in bud for 
early table decoration. I have been taking 
in your magazine for several weeks and 
think I shall find it useful. (E. Dingley, 
Birmingham.) 
The size of the pots does not matter very 
much. Your chief aim should be to lift them 
and get them into pots that will conveniently 
hold them. The best plan would be to push 
the spade perpendicularly into the soil on 
each of the four sides of the plants, so as 
to cut the long rambling roots. Leave them 
in position for a week and then lift them 
entirely, removing any loose soil that may 
be upon the ball of roots, but at the same 
time giving attention to retaining a good 
ball of soil, because they do not readily feel 
the check when so treated. Ycu will be able 
then to determine the size of the pots with 
relative exactness. Some of the pots will 
probably be larger than would have been 
necessary if the plants had been grown in 
them from the first, but that will have to be a 
secondary consideration so long as you can 
accommodate the roots without removing too 
much of the soil. Make up a fresh compost 
for filling up the pots and press it down 
firmly with a label or other piece of thin 
wood. As soon as they have been potted, 
water down the soil thoroughly with a rosed 
watering-pot and place the plants in a 
house where you can keep them close for a 
day or two, and shade them in case of bright 
sunshine. After a week they will be thor¬ 
oughly inured to the fresh conditions and 
can then be used where they are wanted. 
3 267, Transplanting Early Chrysanthe¬ 
mums. 
I have a bed of Ten Week Stocks that are 
now quite over, but as I have some bushy, 
early-flowering Chrysanthemums, I thought, 
of lifting and transplanting some of them 
to fill the bed and so keep up the display a 
little longer. Do you think it possible to 
carry out this with success, and, if so, how 
should I proceed? (H. King, Middlesex.) 
You can cut round the plants with a spade 
as recommended in the previous answer, 
leaving the plants in position for a week. 
In the meantime have the stccks removed 
and the bed dug ready for planting the 
Chrysanthemums. Plant them, tread the soil 
quite firmlv about the roots and immediately 
the whole bed is finished give each plant a 
good watering to settle the soil about the 
roots. The soil should already be in suit¬ 
able condition owing to the recent rainfall, 
but the watering will wash the soil into any 
small hollows there may be, and the plants 
will scarcely feel the check of lifting. 
VEGETABLES. 
3 268. Vegetables for Winter and 
Spring. 
I have a piece cf ground facing north-west, 
but it gets very little sun owing to a high 
wall. It is about 20 ft. by 4 ft. Broad 
Beans and Lettuces have done very well 
there during the summer. What would you 
advise for winter and spring? (N. E. C., 
Kent.) 
It is too late now to sow anything outside 
to get it to pass the winter with success, 
unless we have a particularly mild winter. 
You might grow Lettuces and Cabbages for 
winter. For instance, if you had sown the 
winter variety, Black-Seeded Bath Lettuce, 
in August the plants would now have been 
ready for planting in position. You might, 
however, sow in a cold frame and plant them 
out about the beginning of Maich or earlier 
if the weather is mild. Before turning them 
out of the frame, it would be necessary to 
leave the lights off for a week during the 
day to thoroughly harden the plants. In¬ 
deed, it would be highly ad\antagec u> to 
give an abundance of air during the winter 
months even although growth would not be 
so rapid. The hardening off by exposure 
would be necessary before fully exposing 
them to sunshine and wind. An excellent 
Cabbage for planting now to.stand the win¬ 
ter and come into use early would be Flower 
of Spring. You could have raised plants for 
yourself if you had sown seed about the 
middle of August, but you might be able to 
procure plants from some nurseryman. In 
your locality we think it would be safe to 
plant them out at once. 
3269. Tomatos Splitting. 
I had a fine crop of Tomatos this sum¬ 
mer, but many of them are now splitting. 
Can you give me any reason for their be¬ 
having in this way, or is there any cure for 
it? (J . Gibbs, Middlesex.) 
The splitting of the Tomatos is, no doubt, 
due to the recent heavy rains, which have 
soaked the borders and the roots are taking 
up more moisture than they really require. 
'I he sap finds its way into the fruits, in 
greater quantity than is beneficial and bursts 
the skin. In the open ground you can do 
nothing to prevent it after this season of the 
year, but if you would make a point of 
gathering those fruits that are ready without 
being fully ripe, you could lay them on a 
dry shelf in some sunny aspect and they 
will ripen to be fit for use and not much in¬ 
terior to those that can now ripen upon the 
plants. The time will now soon arrive when 
you will be obliged to gather all the fruits 
it there is any danger from frost. They 
can, of course, be treated in the same way. 
FRUIT. 
3270. Planting a Vine. 
Will the Editor kindly tell me when and 
how to plant a Vine in a small greenhouse? 
How long would it be before I could expect 
Grapes and where Vines are sold? (N. L., 
Lancs.) 
You can plant a Vine at rest at any time 
during the winter after the leaves are off. 
Speaking generally, the beginning of Alarch 
would be a very good time to dc it. Previous 
to getting it, it would be well to ascertain 
the nature of the border in the greenhouse, 
so that you can prepare it or improve it as 
the case may be. If the natural soil is good, 
then you should trench it 25 ft. deep. If 
it is bad, or too shallow, it would be neces¬ 
sary to take out a trench that depth and 
4 ft. wide, if possible, and get some fresh 
soil to put in it for the sake of the Vine. 
In any case you should not plant the Vine 
in soil that has not been disturbed more than 
a foot deep. If the plant is a- strong one, 
you would be able to get Grapes cn it the 
first year, but it would be bad policy to “al¬ 
low it to fruit the first year. Indeed, the 
rod should be cut back within 3 ft. of the 
base, at planting time, so as to develop the 
buds or spurs upon the portion left. Usu¬ 
ally the top is rather weak, but we know 
the temptation is to plant the Vine and leave 
the rod the full length you get it, but that 
