646 
THE GARDENING WORLD . 
“ Qm JUt” 
The 1908 edition of this annual runs to 
156 pp. and contains a very large number 
of good illustrations reproduced from 
photographs. The book contains chap¬ 
ters on the “ Happy Land by the Editor, 
also chapters on Begonias, gardening in 
town, plants that are frozen, garden 
teaching in schools, various garden 
plants and vegetables. Less common 
subjects in a work of this class are plant 
gall mysteries explained, some British 
medicine plants and the transformation 
of garden insects. All this is evidence 
that the province of gardening is extend¬ 
ing and including in it much instruction 
in the way of nature teaching. Most of 
the chapters are by well known authors. 
It is published by the Agricultural and 
Horticultural Association, Ltd., Long 
Acre, London. 
The Flower Garden. 
“ Cleaning up ” will now claim the atten¬ 
tion of the flower gardener every day. Both 
paths and lawns will soon become littered 
with leaves and broken twigs from the 
trees. I have only heard of one gentleman 
who would not have any leaves swept up 
in the autumn until all had fallen from the 
trees. He liked to walk amongst them on 
the lawns and paths. I confess to a similar 
liking, but, at the same time, I wish to have 
the leaves cleared away, as they are so 
useful later on in the form of leaf-soil for 
various purposes, besides making the garden 
clean and attractive. If leaves are allowed 
to remain for a long time on a gravel path 
they cause discoloration of the gravel, es¬ 
pecially so in rainy weather and when there 
is much walking to and fro on the path. So 
we see how important a matter it is to keep 
the grounds free from fallen leaves. Use 
two brooms, one made of stiff brushwood 
and the other of light. 
Calceolaria Cuttings. 
Never before have I seen healthier Cal¬ 
ceolaria plants at this season* of the year. 
And during various journey ings through 
different parts of the country this summer I 
have been struck by the fact that C alceo- 
larias are being more extensively grown in 
the flower garden than for many years past. 
The bright displays as seen in many gardens 
remind one of years ago when this plant 
formed one of the chief features in the bed- 
ding-out arrangements. The healthy cut¬ 
tings growing near the base of the plant 
should be selected ; the lower leaves, as 
shown at A in Fig. 1, being cut off with a 
sharp knife, and then inserted as shown at 
C in a firm bed of sandy soil B. The bed 
should be quite 6 in. deep and with a sur¬ 
facing of sharp sand. A cool frame is the 
best; keep the lights closed, and shade 
slightly for a few weeks after the cuttings 
are put in. Water them and afterwards 
keep them fresh and crisp by frequent 
syringing. 
Planting Bulbs. 
Although it may not be convenient to 
plant bulbs in all the flower beds—owing to 
some of the summer occupants being still in 
them—progress should be made with the 
planting in shrubberies .and other borders. 
Bulbs look well growing at the edge of a 
shrubbery, but as the roots of the shrubs 
generally permeate the whole of the soil in 
the border, some fresh, light loam should be 
put in to assist the growth of the bulbous 
plants. This should be done also where 
ether spring-flowering plants are grown. 
Liliums. 
These bulbs should be planted directly 
•Fig. 1. — Put in Calceolaria cuttings now 
as shown in the above sketch. 
they are received from the seedsman or bulb 
merchant. But if it be not convenient to do 
so, place them in .a box on a layer of damp 
leaf-soil, and then partly cover them with 
the same kind of material. This treatment 
will help to retain their freshness until you 
can do the work of planting. 
Sweet Peas. 
The early-sown seeds in pots will have 
germinated, and the young plants must be 
grown in a cool frame. Put on the lights 
in the evening, but tilt them considerably 
to admit plenty of fresh air. 
The Fruit Garden. 
Planting Raspberries. 
Fig. 2 shows how Raspberry canes should 
be planted in rows. The ground should be 
deeply trenched before any plants are put 
Fig. 2-.—Rasp berry canes should be planted 
about 6 in. apart in rows, or in clumps of 
three canes 5 ft. apart. 
October 10, 190b. 
Fig. 3.—Winter greens with " clubbed 
roots like the above should be pulled up am 
younger plants put in. 
in, as it is not advisable to dig, apd so dis 
turb the roots afterwards. When planted i? 
rows the canes should be about 6 in. apart 
as shown in the sketch. These are surface 
rooting plants, and should not be out : 
very deeply. Spread out the roots neat! 
and cover them with fine soil first, and the 
some of a more lumpy nature; finally pi 
on a good mulch of half-rotted manur- 
Only lightly fasten the canes to the wire 
until the roots have settled in the soil. 
If clumps are preferred put in three cam 
1 ft. apart and 5 ft- from clump to c 1 uir., 
In all cases-where it is possible, plant th 
canes so that they will be in rows frci 
north to south, and thus get the maximu; 
amount of sunshine. 
Filberts. 
If these are gathered before they are pr* 
perly ripened the kernels will shrivel co 
siderably, and then the nuts are almost us 
less for dessert. In country districts squ; 
rels work sad havoc amongst the nut bushe 
and no time should be lost in getting all tl 
nuts gathered directly they are ripe enoug. 
Search .amongst the leaves on the grour 
for fallen nuts, as some of the best are to 
found there. Store the nuts in a cool, fi¬ 
shed, spreading them out thinly, so th 
there will not be any danger of mould s« 
ting in. 
Summer-Pruned Fruit Trees. 
Closely examine these and remove £ 
young, sappy shoots growing from the en 
of the cut-back branches. They are easi 
removed with the thumb and finger. Do r 
cut the hard wood further back at presei 
The Kitchen Garden. 
“ Clubbing ” of Winter Greens. 
When the sun shines brightly closely <- 
amine your rows of Winter Greens. If a r 
of the plants droop badly pull up one of B 
worst, and if there are hard lumps on 5 
roots similar to those shown in the ske 1 
Fig. 3, replace them with strong, health 
young plants. This may be done where e 
plants are comparatively small, but m e 
case of those well advanced in growth .u- 
down the soil firmly around the roots d 
then draw up more soil, partly burying ® 
stems. More roots will form in due cev" 
and the plants will continue to grow ande 
fairly well. 
Storing Roots. 
In dry weather lift and store Beetroot ;d 
Carrots. Twist off the tops of the forA 
and cut off the tops of the latter, and t " 
store the roots in cool sheds in sand, or" 
clamps on raised ground outside. 
Plant Cabbages and Cauliflowers. 
Put a dressing of soot on any vac/it 
ground and plant Cabbages and ( 
flowers. It is not necessary to deeply ^ 
the ground ; simply fork in the soot m * 
surface soil and use a trowel or hand f° r u 
do the planting with making the soil 
around the roots. 
