652 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
October 10, igo8. 
whole of our growing season. The bulbs can 
be planted at once, or as soon as procurable. 
The other plants are also suitable for plant¬ 
ing at the present time. Some might even be 
planted later, but if they are got into the 
ground at once they will get partly estab¬ 
lished before winter. 
3276. Tree Lupin Not Flowering. 
I sowed some seeds of tree Lupin in June, 
and they have not yet flowered. What treat¬ 
ment must I give them through the winter? 
Do you think they will flower well next 
year? (J. C. H., Sussex.) 
In all probability the tree Lupin will give 
you a few flowers next year. It very much 
depends upon the size of the plant, and as 
it is a shrub it requires a little time to get 
established. If the plants are in pots, you 
should keep them in a cold frame till March, 
as you would thereby protect them against 
any possible severe weather which we may 
get in winter. If they are in the open 
ground we should leave them there, keeping 
the ground clean and well hoed, so as to 
encourage growth while the weather remains 
open. Seeing that'you sowed seeds so late 
in the year you could hardly expect this 
shrub to bloom the first season. 
3277. Annual with Banded Flowers. 
Amongst my annuals was a large plant of 
a very tine variety of Chrysanthemum with 
crimson, yellow and white bands on the 
flower. It seemed very brittle, for it got 
broken before it ripened any seeds, and so 
I lost it. I should be glad if you could 
tell me the name of it and where I could get 
seeds. (W. Cooper, Soms.) 
No doubt your fine plant was a specimen 
of Chrysanthemum carinatum which got 
mixed accidentally or intentionally with 
the others. Any good seedsman would sell 
you seeds of this Chrysanthemum and C. 
carinatum burridgeanum is one of the best 
strains of it. In this you will get two or 
three bands of colour in the flowers of most 
of the plants. 
3 27 8. Flowers Other than Yellow. 
My garden is now overrun with yellow 
flowers to such an extent that it has much 
less interest for me than it had in the early 
part of the season. I want some other 
flowers to contrast with these, if you will 
be good enough to name a few and oblige. 
(G. W. Edwards, Leicestershire.) 
There are many late-blooming Asters or 
Michaelmas Daisies which would make suf¬ 
ficient contrast with Sunflowers and other 
yellow subjects, although there is no ne¬ 
cessity for overdoing the garden even with 
Michaelmas Daisies. Some of them which 
you might very well have are Aster Amellus, 
A. Novi-Belgii densus, A. N.-B. William 
.Marshall and white varieties, including 
Chastity, John Wood, Lady Trevelyn, Har¬ 
per Crewe and Innocence. These, if lifted 
and replanted every two years, but especi¬ 
ally the stronger growing ones, you would 
be able to keep in good trim. For instance, 
by planting young pieces of each strong¬ 
growing plant in November, after the stems 
have been cut down, they would make 
healthy, strong-growing pieces of moderate 
size and supply you with plenty of flowers. 
Other subjects that are highly suitable for 
autumn display are Chrysanthemum uligin- 
osum, Anemone japonica alba, Sedum spec- 
tabile, Lathyrus latifolius and L. 1 . albus. 
Besides herbaceous plants, there are several 
others more or less hardy that can be placed 
with hardy border plants, but. yet will fur¬ 
nish plants that are not yellow. For in¬ 
stance, there are Phloxes, Pentstemons, Dah¬ 
lias, and a whole host of early-flowering 
Chrysanthemums of vaiicus colours. They 
require somewhat different treatment, especi¬ 
ally the Pentstemons and Dahlias during 
winter. Early-flowering Chrysanthemums 
could, in many cases, be kept out of doors, 
though their hardiness cannot always be re¬ 
lied upon. 
WATER GARDEN . 
3 279. Duckweed and Other Water 
Plants. 
I have a small pond in which I grow a few 
aquatics. The pond is fed by a small 
stream, but it is the means of introducing 
a deal of Duckweed and other water plants 
that make the pond unsightly. Do you think 
that this injures the water plants in any 
way, and, if so, how can I get rid of them? 
(H. Norris, Worcestershire.) 
Duckweed would be injurious much in the 
same way as crowding of other plants. It 
also covers the surface of the water, hides 
and encourages a variety of water animals, 
including snails, which eat holes in the 
leaves of plants. You can get rid of Duck¬ 
weed by a slight contrivance. You should 
dam up the stream till a fair body of water 
collects. Then open the dam and let the 
water run down with some force. See that 
th,e outlet of the pond is clear and the in¬ 
rush of water will wash the Duckweed over 
the outlet of the pond. You could even en¬ 
courage it to flow away by using a broom 
or a garden engine, making the water fol¬ 
low up the Duckweed with some force and 
thus float the last-named over the outlet. 
This done a few times during the summer 
months would get rid of all the smaller 
plants, such as Duckweed and Algae, and 
various vermin with which they are usually 
infested. 
ROSES. 
3280. Climber Not Blooming. 
Can you tell me why my Seven Sisters 
Rose does not bloom ? It was planted two 
years ago in November with good manure, 
and the tree looks in a very flourishing con¬ 
dition, but bears no flowers. It is meant to 
cover a fence like a rambler. It faces west. 
The soil is sandy-heathen soil. (M. Miller, 
Hants.) 
All climbers require some time to get pro¬ 
perly established and certain Roses take a 
longer time than others. For instance, 
climbers, like Dorothy Perkins and Lady 
Gay, very soon get established, and grow 
strongly and flower in the course of one 
year. On the other hand, Aglaia takes a 
much longer time to do the same amount of 
work than those we have just named. Add 
to this the fact that you have been manuring 
the newly-disturbed soil and we can imagine 
that your plant is making wood and foliage 
instead of flowers, owing to the amount of 
nourishment to hand. We presume it will 
flower more freely when it has got well es¬ 
tablished and filled every space about with 
its roots. We presume that it is well ex¬ 
posed to light and air, so as to thoroughly 
ripen the wood. If in a shady situation 
that point would be against the ripening of 
the wood and the readiness of the plant to 
bloom. There is just one other suggestion 
we should make, and that is to see that the 
shoots and foliage are not too much crowded. 
In that case, you should distribute the best 
shoots over the available space and then cut 
the others away. This will encourage ripen¬ 
ing and flowering should follow in the fol¬ 
lowing season. 
3281. Crimson Rambler with Rusty Fo¬ 
liage. 
There is a large tree of Crimson Rambler 
on the front of our house that got quite 
rusty looking by the end of August, and now 
it has lost a great deal of its foliage. Could 
you say what is the cause of this and if it 
will recover? (M. K. Gray, Dorsetshire.) 
The front of the house is a very bad place 
for Crimson Rambler, which, when estab¬ 
lished in soil that it likes, makes such an 
amount of growth that it soon extends some 
distance from the wall, getting crowded. 
The leaves being soft they are very liable to 
be attacked by red spider, and this is usu¬ 
ally what happens to large plants on houses. 
You can make preparations for establishes 
one or more plants in another part of the 
garden. You could take cuttings of short 
side shoots now and insert them firmly in 
small pots of sandy soil, placing the pots in 
a cold frame for the winter at the winter 
pruning or even now. See that the shoots 
are constantly thinned out by the removal of 
weak and twiggy growth. Next year you 
could give this thinning after flowering is 
over. During the season, while the plant is 
making its growth, give it a frequent heavy 
syringing to clean the foliage. This water 
should be allowed to run into the soil in 
which the rcse is growing. If not in great 
quantity you should make a point of giving 
a thorough watering at the roots. Crimson 
Rambler would succeed better on pillars, 
arches and pergolas where the wind can play 
through the branches 
VEGETABLES. 
3 282. Ripening Tomatoe. 
As some of them seemed to be decaying I 
had all my Tomatos gathered that were in 
any way ripe or beginning to turn red. 
What is the best way of keeping them till 
they ripen properly ? Should I put them in 
a dark cupboard? (J. C. M., Herts.) 
You did right in gathering the fruits of 
your Tomatos, as there is now rather too 
much moisture in the ground and too heavy 
falls of dew at night for the good of the 
Tomatos. There is no necessity for laying 
them away in a dark cupboard. A much bet¬ 
ter plan would he to place them in open 
boxes or trays and stand them in a sunny 
position on the shelves of a greenhouse, or 
some similar place, where they will be out 
of harm’s way. 
FRUIT. 
3 2 83. Corrugated Iron on Fence Bor¬ 
ders. 
Would you kindly let me know through 
The Gardening World whether it is a good 
plan to cover the outside border of a vinery 
with corrugated iron, so as to keep off all 
rain in the late autumn and until the Vine- 1 
are started in January or February? My 
gardener does it of late years and I do nol 
believe in it. (M. E., Devon.) 
In the case of vineries started late, it is 
neither necessary nor advantageous to place 
coverings of any sort on the border. Me 
have seen Vine borders and read of then 
being covered with boards or leaves or fer¬ 
menting manure. Instead of this the borders 
of late vineries would derive greater advan 
tage by being dug up in the autumn and left 
to the free action of the weather. If the 
vineries are started by the new year 01 
before it, this covering of dry leaves 01 
fermenting manure has been found to be 
beneficial in the case of outside border: 
by keeping off rain and raising the tem 
perature of the border. We think it hardl\ 
necessary, however, in the case of Vine 
borders that are not started till February 
in mild parts of the country. The covering o 
borders is an old practice that has been car, 
ried on by some until it seems necessary, bu 
unless the Vines are started very early ant 
the weather uncongenial, and rain is abun 
dant, it is not necessary. In the latter cas- 
it might be an advantage to cover the bor 
der for a while. For the sake of the sod 
it would be much better to expose the borde 
to the action of the weather, as plant foo- 
then gets more into a suitable condition toj 
plant life and the mechanical condition o 
