THE GARDENING WORLD. 
659 
October 17, 1908. 
How to Grow Pentstemons, 
A cutting bed may be made up in a 
cold frame or the shoots be inserted in 
pots or boxes, soil consisting of two parts 
light loam, one part well decayed leaf 
soil, and one third of a part sand, the 
whole well mixed together and passed 
through a sieve, being suitable. Well 
drain the pots or boxes, fill up with com¬ 
post, which should be made fairly firm, 
and cover with a thin layer of sand. 
Make the holes for the cuttings about 
three inches apart with a blunt-pointed 
stick, similar to Fig 4, working some of 
the surface sand to the bottom of each 
for the base of the cutting to rest on, 
as indicated in Fig. 2. Insert the cuttings 
to the depth shown in Figs. 2 and 3, and 
make the soil quite firm round each, and 
after giving a good watering, stand the 
pots or boxes in a cold frame. 
Keep the lights close and shaded until 
Propagating Pentstemons from cuttings. 
Pentstemons are not difficult to grow 
ad their profuse blooming qualities, 
igether with the brilliance and variety 
: colour obtainable, make them one of 
rr most useful hardy border plants, 
nother point of advantage is that they 
immence to flower when early summer 
rwers are past their best and continue 
. bloom as late as the end of October. 
Although Pentstemons are perennials it 
advisable to treat them as annuals and 
Lise plants from seed or cuttings each 
:ason, because, not only are better re¬ 
fits obtained, but old plants cannot be 
upended upon to withstand the winter, 
;cept in very favoured localities. Old 
ants of very choice and scarce varieties 
Lould be lifted before the arrival of 
vere frost and be wintered in a cold 
ame. 
Named varieties of Pentstemons do not 
me true from seed and should be propa- 
ted from cuttings, but a great variety 
colour is obtained bv sowing a small 
cket of choice seed during September 
early October in a pan of sandy soil. 
>w the seed very thinlv, cover the pan 
th a sheet of glass and stand in a cool 
eenhouse or frame and keep the soil 
fist. When the seedlings appear give 
much light and air as possible and 
msplant into boxes as soon as they are 
rge enough to handle. 
October is the best month to insert 
mtstemon cuttings, suitable shoots being 
are or less freely produced in the leaf 
ils of the main stems and may be re¬ 
eved when about four inches long, as 
own in Fig. 1 of the sketches herewith, 
id be prepared by removing the lower 
ir of leaves and cutting the stem across 
st below the joint as shown. 
roots have been emitted, when air should 
be gradually admitted, the quantity be¬ 
ing increased as the young plants gain 
strength, whilst gentle waterings must be 
given as required. The plants must not 
be coddled in any way, the lights being 
removed wherever the weather allows, and 
during the following April the plants 
may be planted out in deeply dug, well 
manured ground. 
ORTUS. 
- +++ - 
Scientific Pruning. 
Bv means of scientific pruning the prin¬ 
cipal of a school of horticulture in Tas¬ 
mania has obtained a yield of Apples 
amounting to twelve bushels per tree, 
which were sold for export at 6s. per 
bushel, thus making no less than £360 
per acre. 
Pompon Dahlia Amelia. 
The blooms of this are very small, 
neat, and of a soft rose. First-class 
certificate by the London Dahlia Union 
on September 10th. The exhibitors were 
Messrs. Keynes, Williams and Co., 
Salisbury. 
Cactus Dahlia Glory of Wilts. 
The blooms of this are very massive 
with slightly incurved, clear, bright yel¬ 
low florets. First-class certificate by the 
London Dahlia Union on September 10th. 
The exhibitors were Messrs. Keynes, 
Williams and Co., Salisbury. 
Mr. H. N. Ellison’s Catalogue. 
The catalogue of the various Roses 
and bulbs issued by Mr. H. N. Ellison, 
F.R.H.S., 5 and 7, Bull Street, West 
Bromwich, is now on our table and con¬ 
tains lists of useful bulbs for gardens, 
large and small, together with many of 
the less common ones. Other subjects 
included are Begonias, Achimenes, Glad¬ 
ioli, Lilies, various plants for forcing, 
Ferns and Roses. It is printed in two 
colours, red and blue, which facilitates 
reference. 
-♦♦+- 
THE WAY TO PRESERVE 
Beans 
FOR WINTER USE. 
It frequently happens that the amateur 
gardener, who grows vegetables for home 
consumption only, finds that during the 
height of the season his runners and 
French Beans are produced in much 
greater abundance than is required for 
the family needs. It cannot be too well 
known, therefore, that a supply of this 
useful vegetable can be easily preserved 
for use during the winter months. 
The Beans should be gathered in dry 
weather (preferably during September, as 
great heat is liable to cause them to mil¬ 
dew), and placed in a china or earthen¬ 
ware vessel, arranged in layers, with a 
thick sprinkling of salt between each 
layer. The vessel containing them 
should be kept in a cool and airy situa¬ 
tion. 
In a few days time the Beans will be 
found to have shrunk considerably, and 
the salt to have melted into brine. More 
Beans and salt can be added from time 
to time, till the vessel is quite full. 
Should the weather be very hot and damp, 
the Beans should be inspected every day 
or so, and the top layer pressed under the 
brine, otherwise those that are not quite 
submerged may show signs of mildew. 
If this is the case, the affected Beans 
should be at once removed, and more salt 
scattered over the top. When once the 
cooler weather sets in they will need no 
further attention, but will keep good in- 
definitelv in any place free from frost. 
When required for use they should be 
lifted from the brine and washed in cold 
water. The strings can then be removed 
and the Beans cut up in the usual manner, 
and they should be allowed to lie for an 
hour or two in water before being cooked 
in order to remove any trace of saltness. 
A pinch of soda in the water in which they 
are boiled will greatlv improve the colour. 
E. C. Tarrant. 
