666 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
October 17, 1908. 
3296. Dahlia to Name. 
As a reader of your paper for some time 
I thought you might tell me the name of the 
Dahlia enclosed. It has come from seed 
which 1 saved myself, and as i had none 
anything like this last year, I cannot ac¬ 
count for its colours. I shall look forward 
to a reply in your “ Enquire Within ” 
column, where I have seen many answers of 
interest. (H. Guers, Lowick, Northampton¬ 
shire.) 
Dahlias do not come true from seed, so 
that yours is practically a new one. It is 
a very pretty one in the matter of colour, 
although there are other varieties in culti¬ 
vation which are more highly advanced in 
the same class. The variety is a Cactus 
Dahlia, but not quite up to exhibition stan¬ 
dard, as the florets are not yet long enough. 
You will require to grow it a second year, 
however, to see what it will come to, as 
newly-raised Dahlias often improve during 
the second season. The improvement to be 
looked for would be longer florets, more 
tightly rolled up, so as to form long and 
slender points to the bloom. We have seen 
some named Dahlias very similar in 
colour, but the form of your one is different. 
If the plant holds the flowers well up above 
the foliage, it would be worth while growing 
it for garden decoration and cut flowers, but 
more especially if it gets somewhat im¬ 
proved next year in the way we mention. 
3297. Preserving Petunias. 
I had a bed of Petunias that did remark¬ 
ably well last summer, but they are now 
over. Can I keep them in a cold frame all 
the winter, and should they be cut back to 
get them into smaller space? I want to 
plant bulbs and the Petunias are in the way. 
(G. Springburn, Cambridgeshire.) 
We doubt very much whether Petunias 
would live through the winter in an un¬ 
heated frame and all plants lifted out of 
the ground would be more difficult to keep 
than those already established in pots. 
Without plenty of heat the plants would not 
be so good next spring, so that we think 
they are not worth troubling about, especi¬ 
ally if they are only single Petunias, of 
which there are now plenty of good strains 
to be had. The best plan, therefore, would 
be to get some seeds and raise a fresh batch 
in spring. 
3298. Carnations and Delphiniums Go¬ 
ing Off. 
Last year our garden was a grass field, 
and when I took it over I had it deeply dug 
and manured. The soil is very heavy and 
things have not done very well this year. 
The Potatos and Cabbages have done best, 
though the former were not of very good 
quality. The flowers do not do much good, 
as the Carnations and Delphiniums went 
right off as if they had been cut at the sur¬ 
face of the soil. Why is this? (T. Radley, 
Lancs.) 
Grass land is very liable to be infested 
with wireworm, the grubs of daddy-long¬ 
legs and various other insects which eat 
the roots of plants. It is very probable, 
therefore, that your Carnations and Del¬ 
phiniums were cut just under the surface of 
the soil by some of these creatures, probably 
wireworm. Your best plan is to get as much 
of the ground cleared and trenched during 
the autumn and winter as you can find time 
to do. While trenching the ground you may 
add stable manure, road scrapings, sweep¬ 
ings, etc., with the object of improving and 
lightening the soil. (See under “Fruit” 
for your other question). 
ROSES. 
3299. Fisher Holmes Not Flowering. 
Can you tell me why a Fisher Holmes 
Rose did not bloom this last summer. I got 
it from the gardener and planted it in April. 
It has made shoots 18 in. long, but there are 
no signs of any bloom. Also, which is the 
best time, and how, to prune it? (A Sub¬ 
scriber, Yorks.) 
You planted the Rose too late to be very 
certain of its blooming the same year. See¬ 
ing that it has made 18 in. of growth, we 
consider it has done well after being planted 
so late. In all probability, it will bloom 
next June or July if other things are to its 
liking. For instance, is the Rose planted in 
a shady situation, or in a fairly open posi¬ 
tion where it may get a fair share of sun¬ 
shine during the day? If this latter is 
given, then we see no reason why the plant 
should not bloom in the forthcoming season. 
Prune it between March 15th and 30th. Cut 
back the shoot to 9 in. more or less depen¬ 
dent upon whether you find a good bud 
just about that height. 
TREES AND SHRUBS. 
3300. Climbers for House Front. 
Please name half-a-dozen evergreen, 
climbing plants to cover the front of our 
house and look fresh all the winter. If 
flowering kinds all the better, but as I want 
them to cover the bricks and do not like to 
see bare walls, a nice covering of green 
leaves would give me every satisfaction. 
(K. Wilson, Suffolk.) 
In your seaside locality there should be 
little frost, and we have therefore selected 
some things that are usually considered ten¬ 
der inland. They are very choice, however, 
namely, the common Myrtle (Myrtus com¬ 
munis), Escallonia macrantha with evergreen 
foliage and rose flowers, and Euonymus ja- 
ponicus labifolius albo-variegatus. Other 
subjects that are quite hardy are Crataegus 
Pyracantha Lelandi or Fiery Thorn, and 
Cotoneaster microphylla with evergreen 
leaves and red berries. Vitis inconstans, 
best known as Ampelopsis Veitchi, is also 
perfectly hardy and chiefly valued for the 
sake of its foliage, both in summer and au¬ 
tumn, while Tt is self-clinging, requiring 
no nailing. Unless the house front is a 
very long one, the shrubs, such as those we 
have ramed, will require to be kept fairly 
well in bounds sideways, but particularly 
the Ampelopsis, which is inclined to ramble 
over a great amount of space. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
3301. Points of an Incurved Chrysan¬ 
themum. 
I should be much obliged if you would 
indicate the leading points to be looked for 
in an incurved Chrysanthemum for exhi¬ 
bition purposes. (H. Staddon, Essex.) 
We presume that you mean simply cut 
blooms. The width and depth of the bloom 
go to make its size and are two of the 
strongest points in an incurved Chrysanthe¬ 
mum. Taking the depth first, you must 
couple with this firmness of the bloom, indi¬ 
cating that there is plenty of material in the 
bloom and not merely a few petals closing 
over the top. The bloom should be as 
smooth as possible with all the florets in¬ 
curved and lying closely upon one another, 
so as to form a neat and regular outline 
rising in the centre according to the variety. 
The width of the bloom is usually reckoned 
as indicating its size and, of course, coupled 
with depth forms the principal item of this 
type. The colour must be fresh and of the 
best according to the variety. As many 
colours as possible should be got into the 
stand and the light and dark ones should 
be evenly distributed over the board. The 
blooms should also be in prime condition, 
not stale with the outer florets becoming 
limp and discoloured. One other item may 
be kept in view, namely, that varieties which 
jyre difficult to cultivate receive attention 
from the judges when the blooms are shown 
in good condition. A difficult variety shown 
in good condition would count in the favoui 
of the exhibitor. 
VEGETABLES. 
3302. A Variegated Leek. 
I beg to enclose for your inspection a 
leaf from a Musselburgh Leek raised from 
seed this year and sown in the usual way. 
You will see it is very highly variegated, 
and I should be pleased to learn if a sport 
of this kind has ever come under your no¬ 
tice. (De Facto, Ayrshire.) 
We do not remember having seen a varie¬ 
gated Leek. The specimen you sent was 
well variegated and the variegation takes 
just the form which we should have expected 
it to do in this class of plants. The leaf, 
of course, is parallel veined and the varie¬ 
gation takes the form of lines and bands of 
greater or less width running the long way 
of the leaf. It may be regarded as a curi¬ 
osity, but we do not think it would ever 
become popular as a variegated plant. Out 
of curiosity, at least, you could preserve it 
and multiply it by offsets or sew seeds from 
it to determine whether the seedlings come 
true to the parent. The variegation was sil¬ 
very, but you could possibly raise one hav¬ 
ing a golden variegation. 
3303. Storing Jerusalem Artichokes 
and Savoy Cabbages. 
Should Jerusalem Artichokes be lifted and 
stored for the winter, and, if so, what is 
the best way of keeping them through the 
winter ? I have also a bed of .Savoy Cab¬ 
bages now well hearted. I think you said 
some years ago that they could be lifted and 
stored. I want to prepare the ground for 
Carrots and Parsnips, so if you can advise 
me how to deal with the Savoys 1 will feel 
grateful. (T. Page, Berks.) 
Jerusalem Artichokes keep best if left in 
the ground where they have been grown. 
If, however, it is necessary to lift them, 
the best plan would be to place them between 
layers of sand in some sheltered situation 
out of doors. They should not be allowed 
to become dry. The layers of tubers should 
not be thick in proportion to the sand. Nei¬ 
ther should we make the piles of an)' great 
depth. Savoys can be lifted and put into 
small compass for the purpose of clearing 
the ground of them. Select seme situation 
where they will not be in the way until 
they have all been used up. Then outline 
a. circle on the ground ; then, within this 
circle raise the soil so as to form a flat 
table some inches above the level of the 
surrounding soil. Then dig up the Savoys, 
remove all the larger of the outer leaves 
and lay them in a line round this circle with 
the heart to the outside and the roots to 
the inside of the circle. Then 'place on 
another layer of soil sufficiently high to 
separate the second layer of Savoys from 
the first one. You ctn build up a conical 
heap in this fashion with soil on the roots 
so as to keep the Savoys fresh until they 
are required. - 
FRUIT. 
3304. Gooseberries and Raspberries. 
I want to plant some Gooseberries afid 
Raspberries. Do you think they would suc¬ 
ceed or what would you advise me to do? 
(T. Radley, Lancs.) 
Under the circumstances described in your 
question under “IFlower Garden,” it would 
be inadvisable to plant Gooseberries or Rasp¬ 
berries in your soil just yet. A much better 
plan would be to put off planting those sub¬ 
jects and plant Potatos, Cabbage, Kale, 
Greens or similar subjects until you get the 
ground somewhat cleaned. During this au¬ 
tumn and the forthcoming winter you should 
make an effort to get as much of it trenched 
as possible, so as to improve it. While 
trenching you could give it a good dressing 
