670 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
October 24, 1908. 
THE CULTURE OF 
pfeesias 
In the Greenhouse. 
Freesias are now recognised as one of 
the most useful and effective subjects for 
house decoration, and it is surprising that 
we do not see them taking a prominent 
place in the amateur’s greenhouse. They 
are of very easy culture when their re¬ 
quirements are thoroughly' understood, 
and a few practical notes from one who 
has successfully grown them will doubt¬ 
less be appreciated. 
In growing Freesias, it should be borne 
in mind that this is a senn-aquatic plant, 
and should therefore be treated as such 
if the best results are to be obtained. No 
time should now be lost before they are 
potted, but this generally depends upon 
the objects and requirements of the cul¬ 
tivator. Select the largest bulbs for pot¬ 
ting, and use nothing less than 5 in. pots, 
and a compost consisting of one part of 
old Mushroom manure, one part of leaf- 
soil, two parts of good fibrous loam, and 
a good sprinkling of sharp sand, pass the 
whole through a half-inch sieve, using 
the rough for the bottom of the pots on 
the crocks, which will assist to keep the 
plants cool and moist. Perfect drainage 
is essential. 
The bulbs should be potted an inch 
deep, and not more than five or six in a 
pot, and pressed firmly. After potting 
they should on no account be subjected 
to artificial heat, a plan often advocated 
by some gardeners ; for there is nothing 
more opposed to their ultimate welfare 
than this. One often finds plants with 
long straggling foliage hanging helplessly 
over the pots in a pitiful condition, the 
reason of this being that after potting 
they have been taken straight away into 
the greenhouse and excited into growth. 
Freesias will not stand forcing, and this 
is oft-times the cause of failure; the 
coolest possible conditions are necessary 
to success. 
After potting they should be placed 
entirely in the open, plunged in ashes to 
keep them moist, but on no account must 
they become sodden. In the event of 
rain or damp, they should be protected, 
and for this purpose a sheet of galvanised 
iron placed over them in such a way that 
they can get as much light and air as pos¬ 
sible will be found very useful. Here 
they should be allowed to remain until 
frost sets in; cool weather will not hurt 
them, but frost must be guarded against, 
and when there is a least fear of it they 
should be removed to a cold frame and 
placed quite close to the glass, which in 
all suitable weather should be removed, 
and subsequently taken into a cool house. 
Here one builds the foundation of suc¬ 
cess, and I would again urge the neces¬ 
sity of the coolest possible conditions for 
them. Place them close to the glass in a 
temperature of from 50 degs. to 55 degs., 
rising with sun heat, and keep them away 
from draughts. Batches of the plants 
may be taken from the frame to the cool 
house to keep up a succession. Heat 
must be modified according to the growth 
of the plants. 
When the flower buds are prominent, 
never before, feeding may commence if 
necessary, but always apply the manure 
when the soil, is moderately moist, as if 
given when the soil is dry at least half 
of its virtues will be lost to the plant. 
By adopting the above method of cul¬ 
ture I can truthfully say I have had foli¬ 
age quite as stiff as that of a Gladioli, 
with flower stems quite capable of. sup¬ 
porting themselves. I consider that stak¬ 
ing tends to spoil the natural gracefulness 
of the plant. 
When they have finished flowering, dry 
off as necessary, but do not remove the 
foliage, let it die down naturally so as to 
insure the perfect ripening of the bulbs. 
If the above treatment is followed, suc¬ 
cess can confidently be anticipated. 
H. Stevens. 
Woodbridge. 
-♦-M'- 
Cox’s Orange Pippin. 
This now famous variety of dessert 
Apple is of very modern origin, having 
been raised as recently as 1830, at Col- 
brook Lawn, near Slough, in Bucking¬ 
hamshire, by a Mr. Cox, after whom it 
is named. The Cox’s Pomana, a good 
cooking Apple, was also introduced by 
the same gentleman. 
- Q. W. - 
Prize Competitions. 
GENERAL CONDITIONS.— Competitors mast 
write on one side o i the paper only. Regular 
paid contributors to THE GARDENING 
WORLD or other gardening journals are de¬ 
barred from entering, but occasional con¬ 
tributors may compete. The name and ad¬ 
dress of the competitor must appear on each 
article sent for competition. The Editor’s 
decision is final, and he reserves the right 
to reproduce, in any way£ any article or photo¬ 
graph sent for competition. The conditions 
applying to each competition should be care¬ 
fully read. 
WEEKLY 
PRIZES. 
A PRIZE OFTEN SHILLINGS will be given 
for the best paragraph or short article on any 
gardening subject, such as hints of practical 
interest to gardeners, notes on the propaga¬ 
tion or cultivation of flowers, fruits or vege¬ 
tables, eradication of pests, etc. The para- 
1 graph or article must not exceed a column, but 
value rather than length will be considered in 
> making the award. Mark envelopes “ Com¬ 
petition,” and post not later than the Monday 
following date of issue. Entries received later 
than Tuesday (first post) will be left over until 
the following week. 
Two prizes of 2s. 6d. will be awarded each 
week for the two best letters, not exceeding 
160 words, on any interesting gardening sub- 
jeot. 
RESULTS OF 
LAST WEEK’S 
COMPETITIONS. 
! Some of the best papers in this competition 
are too long, and we desire readers to keep 
! within a column. 
A prize in the Renders’ Competition was 
awarded to Joseph Floyd,” for the article ou 
“ A Pretty Garden Arch,” page 658. 
Owing to pressure on space the Pri'e Letter 
Competition has been crowded out this week. 
. Preparing . 
Winter Flowering 
Plants. 
The season is now at hand when 1 
must think about making preparation f 
housing our plants that are to supply o 
greenhouses and rooms with beau 
throughout the dull winter months. Di 
ing October will be a busy month 
this direction, and this note will act as. 
reminder lest we forget any plants tt 
will give us pleasure when all outde- 
flowers are over. 
All plants that have been planted c: 
in the open should be cut round withi 
spade some distance from the plant, usi> 
judgment according to rooting action f 
the different varieties, a week or so - 
fore we intend to take them up from t 
soil. 
A good soaking of water should e 
given previously if any way dry, foil 
this is not done the soil from around thn 
will break away from the roots, dog 
harm that will take the plants week-u 
overcome. Procure good balls of soil o 
them. A hand barrow is best to carry t 
plants to the potting shed. Soil and ps 
according to the size thought neces? v 
should be in readiness, so as not to k p 
the plants exposed to the light and aii 
A fairly rich soil such as turfy Ion. 
decayed manure, leaf-mould, and s.d 
will be found a suitable compost to u. 
After potting the plants must be kept ol 
and shaded for a few davs to prevent tin 
drooping, giving a thorough watering id 
dew over with the syringe mornings id 
afternoons. 
In a week or so they should be gnu- 
ally exposed to stronger light in readin; 
for being arranged on the stages of le 
greenhouse, and treating as other gnu 
house plants. Generally speaking, - it 
plants as Salvias, Bush Chrysanthemum 
Arums, Solanums and Eupatonums iv 
best planted out, making finer specinn- 
and saving a lot of labour. 
Plants which have been grown in >t- 
during the summer months and stoocon 
ashes should also be got in readinessjior 
removing into a greenhouse or fra?s, 
all dead or decaying foliage being t;,en 
off, and any worms removed from the 
and taking care that the drainage is so 
free, 
Any plants needing stakes, sucl 
winter blooming Carnations, should 
as 
be 
attended to. 
By the middle of the month Cycla en. 
Primulas, etc., must also receive aen- 
tion, and a place near the glass a 
greenhouse found for them. 
From now onwards through the v tt’ 1 
care must be taken in watering and.'n ■ 
mg' air. Keep rather a dry atmosp'n' 
J. BOTLlj- 
Cactus Dahlia Evening Star, 
The long slender florets of this vsT 1 ' 
are incurved and whorled, buff-saM’fl 
and yellow in the centre. First H" 
certificate by the London Dahlia I 
on September 10th. The exhibitors <- 11 
Messrs. J. Stredwick and Son, St. I° n ' 
ards-on-Sea. 
