ii4 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
in the boxes the sun will be so strong dur¬ 
ing the day that the boxes may be trans¬ 
ferred to a cold frame if the hotbed is re¬ 
quired for anything else. They require 
ventilation during the day to prevent too 
high a temperature and to make the 
plants grow sturdy and dwarf. 
- <$- 45 ^- 4 ^ -- 
The Loganberry. 
As readers may remember, the Logan¬ 
berry is the result of a cross between the 
Raspberry and the Bramble. It is per¬ 
fectly hardy, and the flesh of the fruit 
is firm, keeping a long time whether 
gathered or on the plant. “La Tribune 
Horticole ” says that the demand for this 
new fruit is enormous. Many cultivators 
have planted hundreds of them, and find 
their culture more profitable than the 
Raspberry. One of the largest manu¬ 
facturers of jam has written saying that 
he had tried the jam of the Loganberrv 
and thinks it a good article that will make 
its way in the domain of commercial jams, 
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— SINGLE — 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS 
For Decoration, 
In growing single Chrysanthemums for 
decorative purposes the first essential is 
to select good cuttings. Those pushing 
up through the soil are the best and 
should be strong and healthy and about 
two or three inches in length. These can 
be struck either in pots or boxes, about 
the end of February being the best time 
for the operation. 
After they have rooted they should be 
potted up singly or put into fresh boxes 
and kept cool, a cold frame being the 
best place for them. 
In about a week or ten days’ time, when 
they have become established, the plants 
should be pinched in order to induce a 
shrubby growth, and about the middle of 
May they should be planted out in a good 
border or in the kitchen garden in well 
dug and manured soil and kept watered 
during dry weather. Then in about a 
fortnight’s time they should be again 
pinched so as to provide about a dozen 
shoots ; when these shoots have attained a 
length of from six to nine inches pinch 
again with the object of obtaining a fine 
head. 
In about the second week of September 
cut round the plants with a spade—a 
straight down cut, about six inches away 
from the main stem of each plant — and 
then give them a good soaking with water. 
After the lapse of a week lift the plants 
and pot them up, using large pots or 
w-ooden buckets, and stand them on the 
north side of a hedge or wall for a few 
days, syringing them in the evening. 
Following this they should be removed 
to a cold house, and when the buds begin 
to open they can go into the conserva.- 
tory. 
1 have grown Chrysanthemums by this 
system "of treatment two feet through and 
carrying 200 blooms on each plant, and 
f(; ; 1 sure that if the above directions are 
followed anyone may obtain similar sue- 
C6S3. 
Chrvsant. 
February 20, 1909. 
Pruning and Dressing Vipes. 
Those who have Vines should now prune 
them without further delay, otherwise the 
sap will commence to rise with the ad¬ 
vent of warm weather, and in that case 
the Vines would be liable to bleed at the 
cut ends of the shoots. The antidote is 
to complete the work early, so that the 
Vines will be perfectly at rest and the 
cut ends will have time to dry up before 
the sap rises. 
Fig. 1 in the accompanying illustra¬ 
tions show's a portion of a rod with two 
joints from which the laterals arise that 
bear the fruit. The method of pruning is 
to cut back these laterals as closely as 
possible to a good eye without cutting too 
near, and thereby injure the bud. . A plan 
that is often followed is to leave two eyes 
to make sure of getting one good shoot 
because accidents occasionally happen 
by which a shoot may get broken off in 
tying it down to the wires, especially if 
the operator is inexperienced. The aim, 
also, is to get a bud as near the base of 
each lateral as possible in order to keep 
the spurs as they are trimmed as short as 
possible, and without any w'aste of w'ood 
or matter which would serve to harbour in¬ 
sects. 
Fig. 2 shows a rod that has been pruned 
■ on one side with seven laterals upon it 
that still require pruning. It will be 
noticed that two of them seem to spring 
from one point, but it merely means that 
there was no spur from which to get a 
lateral in the right position, and that one 
was trained in to fill up the space. It 
will be noticed that the Vines are planted 
inside, and shows also that the hot water 
pipes should be at a certain distance from 
the base of the roots. 
"When the pruning has been completed, 
the house should receive a thorough 
Fig. f. Showing where to -prune the 
laterals. 
cleaning. A good method is to mix some 
paraffin with the water used in washing 
down the interior of the house, so as to 
destroy any insects which may be hiding 
in the seams of brick-work, or in the 
angles sheltered by wood-w'ork. The 
whole of this should be well washed, using 
a scrubbing brush dipped in this w r ater, 
containing paraffin. The latter is liable 
to float on the surface of the water, and to 
make it mix with the w r ater it is well to 
dissolve some soft soap and thoroughly 
mix the paraffin with this, adding it to 
the water. While the walls and wood¬ 
work are still wet from the scrubbing, 
some of those soap-suds and paraffin 
Fig. 2. A half-pruned rod. 
might be used for washing down by means 
of the syringe. The next operation is to 
white-wash the back wall of the vinery if 
there is a bare wall. Even if the bricks 
are covered with plaster, it is a good plan 
to white-wash the wall once a year in ad¬ 
dition to the previous washing as it serves 
to destroy insects, and prevent their in¬ 
crease afterwards. Fig. 3 shows the 
operator at work white-washing. 
Immediately after the pruning has been 
accomplished, and the house thoroughly 
cleaned, the next operation is to clean 
the Vines themselves. Vine rods are usu¬ 
ally covered with thick bark, more or less 
in a peeling condition, thus not only mak¬ 
ing the rods unsightly, but constituting a 
harbour or hiding place for red spider, 
meally bug, or other insects which attack 
the Vines during their neriod of growth. 
Fig. 4 shows an operator at work cleaning 
a rod. Some gardeners ,use a knife with 
which to remove the bark, but while it is 
still good and adheres to the rod it should 
not be removed. 
The safest plan is to grip the rod firmly 
in the hand as shown in Fig. 4, and work 
the hand round so as to rub off the loose 
pieces of bark that may be hanging in 
threads or strings, or even adhering 
loosely to the rod. This does not Injure 
the inner bark in any way, and upon the 
healthy condition of that the vitality of 
the Vine depends. The part of the rod 
above the hand is relatively smooth, while 
the portion below the hand is still covered 
