February 20, 1909. 
7W£? QARDBAINQ WORLD. 
119 
• 
] tilted up on the opposite side to that 
i>m which the wind blows. This will 
p’ent the wind from blowing directly 
ion the plants. Some of the pots will 
iw get dry more often than formerly, 
; d care should be taken that such plants 
watered, otherwise the roots will 
:ffer. It may be done early in the day, 
. that any water that may be spilled will 
).ve dried up before closing time if that 
necessary. 
Plants for exhibition or greenhouse 
.coration may be potted now, or at any 
ne up to the middle of March, but not 
ter than the third week. This is, of 
urse, the second potting, and the final 
ie, so that great care should be exer¬ 
ted in the matter of pots and compost, 
ne latter may consist of three parts of 
ellow fibrous loam, one part leaf mould, 
ie of old hotbed manure, and one ot 
nd. Some growers prefer to use ground 
ster shells for making the soil porous, 
td in that case half of the material may 
nsist of this, and the other half of sand, 
tie preparation of the soil is really the 
st operation, and enthusiastic growers 
ive been getting this together under 
ver at least for a month past. When 
e ingredients have been got together 
ey should be turned several times he¬ 
re using, both to mix it, and to sweeten 
If it is in any way too wet some days 
ay be allowed to lapse before commenc- 
g potting operations, so that there would 
: time for turning the soil two or three 
mes before the operation commences. 
Iso get ready a sufficient number of 
in., 8 in., or 9 in. pots, which should be 
eaned and well crocked. This differ- 
lce in the size of the pots has refer- 
Dce to the vigour of the varieties in the 
ullection, some being weak and others 
oderate or strong. Two plants of the 
rongest growing varieties may be put 
1 a pot, or three of the weak growers, 
he vigour of the plants should be known 
1 the cultivator, and he can use his dis- 
retion as to the size of the pots he puts 
tem in. The compost should be pressed 
own firmly, as nothing is more conducive 
1 the welfare of Carnations than firm 
otting. 
roe Carnations. 
Cuttings taken during the month will 
oot more freely without damping than 
uring the last month, as the light is now 
etter, and the sun is daily gaining more 
rength. Nevertheless, those who re- 
uire many plants usually begin in Janu- 
rv, and thus can now take off a second 
atch for succession. Side shoots about 
in. to 4 in. long taken from the flower- 
tg stems with a heel of the old wood are 
ie best. See that the cuttings are free 
om green fly and red spider. It is a 
ood plan to make sure of this by dipping 
ie cuttings in a strong solution of Gis- 
:urst compound, lay them on the potting 
ench for some hours, and then wash them 
,t clean water. 
The earlier batches of cuttings should 
e potted off as soon as rooted. They will 
loon take to the fresh soil in a night tem- 
■erature of 50 deg. if care is taken not to 
ver-water them until the roots are on 
ie move. Pots should be used in pro- 
ortion to the size of the plants. It would 
e a mistake to put a small cutting with 
rw roots into a large pot. The secret 
f success is to put them into pots pro- 
ortionate to theii size, and then shift 
tem on as often as they require it into 
srger sizes. 
Marguerite Carnations. 
This early flowering race is treated as 
an annual, as the best results are obtained 
from plants raised from seeds every year. 
They may now be sown and again during 
March for a succession. A hotbed is the 
best place to germinate the seeds, both 
during this month and the next. A tem¬ 
perature of 60 degs. will be ample for ger-' 
minating them, and those sown under 
these conditions at present will bloom 
during September in the open ground. 
The seeds will soon germinate, and may 
then be placed under cooler conditions in 
a greenhouse close to the glass to prevent 
the seedlings from getting drawn. When 
they have made the first pair of leaves 
they may be transplanted into boxes 2 in. 
apart each way and when 2 in. or 3 in. high 
they may be potted off singly in thumb 
pots. The pots may be returned to the 
same position for a few days until the 
roots get a hold of the fresh soil. By 
that time the sun should be warm enough 
to enable the plants to be grown entirely 
in a cold frame until they can be planted 
out some time in May. 
American Carnations. 
The work of propagation here is much 
the same as in the case of Tree Carna¬ 
tions. Batches of cuttings are put in to 
succeed those inserted in January. In¬ 
deed, those who have a limited number of 
plants and have difficulty in getting all 
the cuttings they require may insert them 
at any time now whenever they are suffi¬ 
ciently large to make good cuttings. Use 
very sandy soil in the pots. They are 
more easily rooted now than earlier in 
the year. 
Old plants in flower will now get dry 
more often than during the past three 
months. The light is also better, and 
feeding may be resorted to with advan¬ 
tage, using it weakly at every' second 
watering. As the sun gains strength more 
ventilation will also be necessary, but the 
temperature during the day with the sun 
heat may be allowed to run up to 65 degs. 
with advantage to plants that are making 
growth and flowering. If large flowers 
are desired, look over the plants for their 
requirements in the matter of disbudding. 
J. D. F. W. 
Myosotis - - 
Pots lor Winter. 
Many gardeners, desire now-a-days to 
grow plants out of season and more 
especially plants which will provide flow¬ 
ers in the dull months of the year. Grow¬ 
ing such plants is also particularly inter¬ 
esting work. 
An attractive subject which lends itself 
well to this treatment is Myosotis, and a 
description of its cultivation may interest 
many readers. 
The variety I recommend for this pur¬ 
pose is sent out by Sutton's, of Reading, 
and is named in their catalogue Sutton’s 
Pot Myosotis, which I am informed is a 
selection from Myosotis oblongata, half 
hardy in this country. 
The seed should be sown about the end 
of June, using ordinary seed boxes almost 
Ailed with a mixture of loam, leaf-soil and 
sand, the roughest part of the material 
being put at the bottom to act as drain¬ 
age. Scatter the seed evenly over the 
surface and just cover with like soil run 
through a quarter-inch sieve. Water 
gently through a fine rose can and place 
in a cool frame. In a month’s time the 
seedlings will be ready to prick off singly 
into 3^ inch pots, using the same com¬ 
post, replacing in the same frame and 
shading from bright sunshine until they 
have got over the disturbance, then give 
plenty of air and syringe frequently. 
As soon as they reach the sides of the 
pots transfer them to their flowering pots, 
which should be not less than 5 inches ; 
larger plants may be had by using 6 inch 
pots, but, of course, they take up much 
more room, while the lesser size are better 
for use in bowls, etc., in room decoration. 
The compost for the final potting should 
be stronger and richer, because these 
plants make a lot of roots, and should 
consist of two parts loam, one part leaf- 
soil and manure, with a little soot and 
bonemeal added. Pot rather firmly and 
finish off by giving a good watering to 
settle the soil round about the roots. 
They may now have a moist position out 
of doors and be syringed morning and 
night. In due time the pots will be filled 
with roots and dry quickly, but never let 
them want for water. 
About this time they will benefit from 
weak doses of liquid manure and soot 
water now and again; this should be given 
rather stronger and more frequently just 
before the plants show their flower. Let 
them have this position until the end of 
October, when they should again have 
frame protection. House some of them 
at the Same time in an intermediate tem¬ 
perature and keep the others back to form 
successions. It will be thus possible to 
have flowers from them well into the new 
year. 
If attacked by greenfly, which is the 
only pest I have seen on them, place the 
plants in a house where they can be fumi¬ 
gated, which will be found much more 
effectual than syringing noth insecticides 
and less bother. 
Chas. 
-- 
NAMES OF PLANTS. 
(R. S. Wade) 1, Begonia metallica; 2, Ox- 
alis cernua ; 3, Begonia weltoniensis. 
(A. E. R.) 1, Pteris tremula; 2, Lomaria 
gibba; 3, Pteris Wimsettii; 4, Pteris cre- 
tica umbrosa ; 5, Blechnum occidentals. 
(F. J. W.) r, Oval-leaved Privet (Ligus- 
trum ovalifolium) ; 2, Laurustinus (Vibur¬ 
num Tinus); 3, Golden Japanese Box (Buxus 
japonicus aureus) ; 4, Broad-leaved Golden 
Japanese Spindle-tree (Euonymus japonicus 
latifolius aureus). 
(S. M.) 1, Acacia dealbata; 2, Anemone 
coronaria Rose de Nice. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
William Cooper, -51, Old Kent Road, 
London, S.E.—Catalogue of the Twenty- 
First Annual Spring Clearance Sale. 
Vilmorin-Andrieux et Cie, 4, Quai de la 
M6gisserie, Paris.—Catalogue of Autumn 
Chrysanthemums ; also Catalogue of Dahlias 
and Cannas. 
Barr and Sons, ii, 12 and 13, King Street, 
Covent Garden, London.—Barr’s Anemones, 
Begonias, Cannas, Dahlias, Gladioli, Lilies, 
etc. 
