WORLD. February 27, 1909. 
*33 
THE GARDENING 
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Address : The Editor, The Gardening 
World, 37 and 38, Shoe Lane, London, E.C. 
The Editor invites enquiries, which may 
cover any branch of gardening. Questions 
should be as brief as -possible and written on 
one side of the paper only; a separate sheet 
of paper should be used for each question. 
Replies cannot be sent by post. 
Garden Plans .—Gardeners who would make 
the best use of this column are invited to 
prepare and forward to us a rough outline 
drawing or plan of their gardens, indicating 
the position of beds and lawns, the charac - 
STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. 
3645. Treatment of Cobaea scandens. 
I have one plant of Cobaea scandens in my 
cold greenhouse and one outside on a west 
wall. The former is green and healthy. 
Could it be cut down at all? The other is 
apparently dead. Shall I cut it down, and 
will it come up again? (N.E.C., Kent.) 
Cobaea scandens is an evergreen green¬ 
house plant and is not hardy. Your plant 
in the cold greenhouse should have the la¬ 
teral shoots cut back to one or two buds at 
the base. The principal stems should be left 
attached to the rafters. The house will very 
soon get furnished again by the laterals 
which are given off and which should flower. 
If you were to cut it down you would have 
to wait until it makes fresh growth again 
before it could possibly flower, and that 
might take a year or two, as the cutting 
down would cripple it. The plant outside, 
which appears to be dead, should be cut 
back until you find live wood if there is 
any upon it. In any case, you might leave 
a foot of stem above the ground, and if 
there is any live portion about it it will shoot 
up in the course of the summer. 
3646. .Hot and Cold Greenhouse. 
I am starting in a small way in the florist 
trade. I have a hothouse 50 ft. by 12 ft. 
and a cold house 50 ft: by 12 ft. Any use¬ 
ful hints for the best flowering plants I will 
be glad of. I can make wreaths and other 
description of flowers that will sell well in 
the market about here, but when cut flowers 
are scarce about here I would like to know 
where to purchase them at reasonable prices. 
(Florist.) 
In your warm house you could grow 
Roses in pots, Marguerites, Arum Lilies, 
Indian Azaleas, Lilies, such as L. longi- 
florum, L. Harrisi, and other things for 
which you can find a sale in the neighbour¬ 
hood. You will require some cold frames 
in which you could grow Violets for flower¬ 
ing in winter or late spring, and for rear¬ 
ing various plants. You did not give us 
your address, so that we are not in a posi¬ 
tion to give you full directions to meet your 
case. In July you could sow East Lothian 
.-locks in boxes and pot them off singly to 
be grown in cold frames until the end of 
September, when some of them could be put 
ir; a well -lighted position in the warm house 
and the rest put in the cold house to be 
Drought into the warm one in batches as you 
require, them. The Violets should, ’ of 
course, be grown in the open, making a fresh 
ter and height of the fence or wall; posi¬ 
tion of vegetable garden, orchard, etc. The 
north side of the garden and any over¬ 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It 
should also be stated whether the garden is 
fiat or on a declivity, and all large trees 
should be marked. Particulars of the na¬ 
ture of the soil will also help us to give 
satisfactory replies. When such plans are 
received they will be carefully filed, with 
the name and address of the sender, and 
will be consulted by the Editor whenever an 
enquiry is sent. 
plantation, each year in May. You could 
also have a stock of Roses in pots, but they 
must be established before you can expect 
anything good from them if you attempt any¬ 
thing like forcing. Some of these Roses 
could be put in the warm house and some in 
the cold house, thereby securing a succes¬ 
sion. Very suitable R.oses for pot culture 
are Liberty, Richmond, Lady Roberts, 
Lady Battersea, Caroline Testout, Brides¬ 
maid, Mrs. John Laing, Souvenir de 
Pierre Notting, Papa Gontier, Mme. Hoste, 
White Maman Cochet, and The Bride. They 
could be grown in the open during summer. 
You should also grow a collection of Chry¬ 
santhemums in pots, and for very late work 
the following are excellent varieties :— 
Mme. P. Radaelii (pink); Mme. Therese 
Panckouke (white) ; Snowdrift (white); W. 
H. Lincoln (yellow); Mrs. J. Thompson 
(white); Winter Cheer (rose); Negoya (yel¬ 
low) ; Golden Age (golden-yellow); and 
Tuxedo (bronze). There is a large number 
of early-flowering varieties, and we have 
made a selection of a dozen that will keep 
furnishing you with flowers for some time 
in August till October. If you find some 
of them too late to flower in your district 
in the open you can lift them and place them 
in large pots or tubs at the end of Septem¬ 
ber and flower them in the cold greenhouse. 
The varieties are Le Cygne (white) ; Mme. 
C. Desgranges (white) ; Mme. Marie Masse 
(mauve); Mrs. E. V. Freeman (crimson); 
Ralph Curtis (creamy white) ; Carrie (deep 
yellow); Goacher’s Crimson; Harvest Home 
(bronzy-red); Market White; Mrs. A. Thom¬ 
son (golden-yellow) ; King of the Earlies 
(white); and Mytchett White. See under 
“ Flower Garden ” for the rest of your 
questions. 
3647. Paris Daisies from Seed. 
(.an I raise Paris Daisies from seed sown 
now fit to plant out in May to flower through 
the summer? I have a greenhouse kept at a 
temperature of 65 degs., also a cold frame. 
(A. A., Cheadle.) 
1 aris Daisies from seeds will be inclined 
to grow more rampantly than those from 
cuttings. They will take longer to come 
into bloom than plants raised from cuttings, 
but if you sow at once and treat them pro¬ 
perly you should be able to get plants to 
put out at the end of May and which will 
flower by July if you do not plant them in 
too rich soil. As soon as the seedlings have 
made a rough leaf or two you should pot 
them off singly in thumb pots and then shift 
them into larger sizes later on to keep them 
growing. Keep them near the glass and ven¬ 
tilate to prevent the temperature getting too 
high during the day, especially when the 
sun gets strong. We think they will soon 
reach the flowering stage by giving them 
several -shifts between now and the time they 
are planted out in May, but the soil should 
not be too rich. 
3648. Building; a Greenhouse. 
I am thinking of building a greenhouse. 
Could you give me a few hints how to pro¬ 
ceed to best advantage? (E. W. C., Suf¬ 
folk.) 
You should have some knowledge of the 
use of tools and be able to saw, plane and 
make joints, otherwise you will not make 
a very good greenhouse. For instance, the 
rafters have to be well fitted in together at 
the top, and in the case of the roof the sashes 
will require to be mortised-at the corners, 
while the rods for bearing the glass will also 
have to be properly cut so as to carry the 
glass neatly and be readily puttied to keep 
out rain. The lower portion of the green¬ 
house, that is, the portion below the benches, 
may consist of deal boards, but in those you 
should make provision for bottom ventilators 
equally distributed along the house. If the 
house is a lean-to or a span-roof you will 
have to be guided accordingly, and get a 
sufficient number of supporting pillars to 
which you can nail the wood. Above the 
staging the sides should be filled in with 
glass like an ordinary window or as sashes 
are made for greenhouses or frames. On the 
top of the boarding you will require a beam, 
not necessarily so broad as one where the 
base of the house consists of bricks, but 
something would be necessary'to form a base 
into which the upright rods for bearing the 
glass should be fixed. On the top of this 
again you will require another beam of suit¬ 
able width and strength to run along the 
eaves of the - greenhouse and form a support 
to which you can fix the rafters. All this 
would be a matter of calculation- as to how 
many feet of these beams }|m will require 
and also the Wood for supporting the glass, 
both at the sides and also the top. We know 
nothing about the size of your house, so that 
you will have to calculate this for yourself. 
\ ou can get useful hints from pictures of 
greenhouses as to structure, or you could get 
the book entitled “Greenhouse and Conserva¬ 
tory Construction and Heating,” by Paul N. 
Hasluck, and published by Messrs. Cassell 
and Co., Ludgate Hill, London, E.C., price 
2s., with postage extra. You will require a 
certain number of tools such as a saw, a 
good plane, some chisels for mortising, ham¬ 
mer, bradawls of different sizes, a plane for 
making the bearers for the glass in the 
sashes, and a putty knife. 
FLOWER GARDEN. 
3649. Hyacinths and Tulips Hotting. 
Please inform me the reason why my bed¬ 
ding Hyacinths appear to expand the leaves, 
letting in soil and water, causing the bloom 
spikes to rot? Also the reason for Tulip 
bulbs rotting before scarcely making a move, 
(E. W. C., Suffolk.) 
Hyacinths and Tulips under natural con¬ 
ditions rise above the soil during winter, 
but we have never found that to be any se¬ 
rious detriment to their making proper 
growth and flowering at the appointed time. 
We believe it is a provision of Nature for 
the leaves to be exposed to light so that they 
can manufacture food for the bulbs, thereby 
making them ready for the work of bloom¬ 
ing. We are very much of the opinion that 
your bulbs were diseased when you had 
them. In all probability both the Hyacinths 
and the Tulips were affected with bacteriosis 
before you had them. The disease is caused 
by a fungus named Bacterium Hyacinthi, 
which is well-known in bulb plantations on 
the Continent. The bulbs should be well ex- 
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