42 
THE GARDENING WORLD. February 27, 1909. 
is a bit shaded with trees, but the rest gets 
sun all day from ten o’clock in the morning. 
(Beginner, Wilts.) 
Raspberries in your district will do best in 
a cool, slightly shaded position, but not 
under the drip of trees. When planting 
young suckers they should be cut down to 
12 in. to 18 in. the first year to encourage 
them to throw up suckers from the root 
Mulch them at the beginning of June to pre¬ 
serve the moisture. You cannot plant them 
too soon now. The same would apply to 
Strawberries, but you cannot expect fruit 
from them either the first season, unless you 
had planted them in August or September 
last. In both cases the ground should be 
trenched and manured before planting. We 
think you could better occupy the ground 
with something else than Strawberries at the 
present time. For instance, you could have 
a crop of early Peas or Potatos, and then 
get the ground ready to plant the Straw¬ 
berries in August, and you will get a crop 
of fruit in the following summer just as 
early as if you were to plant now. 
3658. Brambles and Loganberries. 
Which would you consider the most profit¬ 
able crop to grow for dessert and jam— 
Brambles or Loganberries? I have seen 
some very fine fruits of both of them, and 
would like to try my hand at growing them, 
but do not know much about their flavour. 
What plan of growing should I adopt? (E. 
A. Grant, Cambs.) 
Both are suitable for dessert or making 
jam if you like them, and if for home use 
the better plan would be to have both kinds 
for the sake of variety. The cut-leaved 
Bramble is a good variety with large fruits. 
Besides cooking alone Loganberries are con¬ 
sidered by some to be improved by mixing 
them with Apples. They make a .good jam 
with nothing else but sugar if properly 
boiled. Before planting either of them the 
ground should be trenched and well 
manured. They may be supported by put¬ 
ting a stake to each plant, but this would 
have to be a stout one, as they are liable to 
be swayed by the wind when in the fruiting 
stage. A much more satisfactory plan, and 
as easily carried out, would be to put in a 
strong wooden post at either end of the rows 
and strain wires to them. Loganberries and 
Brambles make canes of considerable length, 
so that whatever height you require them to 
be you could strain wires at 18 in. apart to 
carry them. The canes should be cut down 
to 2 ft. or 3 ft. when planting. 
3659. Grafting Recently - planted 
Stocks. 
I have several seedling Apple stocks. I 
moved them last November to their present 
quarters. They had good roots which were 
disturbed as little as possible. Could I 
graft them this March with any chance of 
success? (Novice, Middlesex.) 
Wait until the stocks commence to move, 
which will be some time in April. You can 
then head them back and graft them imme¬ 
diately. If they had been established a 
year previously they would, no doubt, have 
started more strongly, but as they are well 
rooted we see no reason why you should not 
succeed. 
GARDEN ENEMIES. 
3660. Morello Cherry and Black Fly. 
Will you kindly give me your advice on 
the following subjects in The Gardening 
World? I have obtained so much informa¬ 
tion and help from your paper, I now take 
it regularly. There is an old Morello Cherry 
tree in my garden on a south wall. It was a 
mass of blossom last spring (when I became 
possessor of the garden), but later on was 
covered with black fly and ants, and though 
1 cringed it and cut off most of the infested 
branches it did not recover, and, of course. 
we had very few Cherries. How ought I to 
treat it this year ? Do you think it wants 
manuring ? I must add that the garden has 
been utterly neglected for three years pre¬ 
viously. (E. C. Rowe, Surrey.) 
The black fly of the Cherry (Myzus Cerasi) 
is more difficult to kill than the ordinary 
green fly, and for that reason you should use 
paraffin emulsion. You can give th'e appli¬ 
cation at two different times. You can wash 
the tree at once to kill eggs that may be 
upon the tree. Dissolve half-a-pound of soft 
soap in a quart of water, then add one pint 
of paraffin. Churn this in a vessel with a 
force pump or syringe till it assumes a 
creamy condition and no oil floats on the 
top. Then add 10 pints of water, and when 
cold syringe the tree, wetting every part of 
the branches and trunk. As the tree comes 
into leaf keep a close eye upon it, and as 
soon as you see any black fly make up an 
emulsion as above described, but add 15 
pints of water to it before using it, as the 
foliage is more easily injured than the bare 
tree. The point is to be sure that there is 
no free oil floating in the liquid. If so, 
churn it again. The addition of a little 
more soap would also correct it before com¬ 
mencing to churn. Next morning wash the 
tree with clean water, using a garden engine 
or the syringe, applying it forcibly. 
3661. Aphides on Roses. 
There are several old Rose bushes in my 
garden. I do not know what sort, but I 
believe they are the ordinary pink cottage 
Rose, which have been allowed to grow wild 
for three years. They were all infested with 
green fly last summer and bore very few 
Roses. This autumn they were pruned and 
manured. Please tell me what course I 
ought to pursue this year in order to pre¬ 
vent the attacks of insects and to get a good 
growth. (E. V. Rowe, Surrey.) 
You can encourage growth by giving good 
supplies of water at occasional intervals 
and then give a dose of liquid manure..They 
do not, as a rule, require much encourage¬ 
ment to give a fine supply of bloom if of 
the variety you suspect. It would be better, 
however, to prune them in spring—say, be¬ 
ginning of March. Keep a close watch upon 
them for the first appearance of insects, and 
if grubs put in an appearance they must be 
picked out by the hand and destroyed. When 
gren fly commence you should make up a 
solution of two ounces of soft soap to a gal¬ 
lon of water. To this add one pint of tobacco 
juice and syringe the bushes forcibly. This 
might be repeated on the following after¬ 
noon or evening if any aphides are still pre¬ 
sent. Even if you succeed in destroying 
them by this means a fresh attack may come 
from other people’s gardens, and you will 
have to repeat the operation if this is the 
case. Tobacco powder is a very useful ap¬ 
plication if you just syringe the Roses to wet 
the foliage and then dust a little of the to¬ 
bacco powder in amongst the leaves just 
where the aphides are and leave it there fer 
a day. If in any way unsightly you can 
then wash it off with the syringe. 
3662. Worms and Irtsect 3 in Soil. 
My soil is very much infested with small 
white worms, small insects that jump when 
disturbed, and long insects with hundreds 
of feet. iCan you say if these do any harm 
and the remedy? Turnips, Parsnips and 
( arrots get much injured with something 
(J- B., Notts.) 0 
Without seeing the irfsects it would be im¬ 
possible to be certain of all of them, but 
judging from your statement most of them 
are only injurious to root crops and similar 
things when in bad condition-. In any case 
it would be well to clean the soil. Trench¬ 
ing is one. good way of doing this, and while 
the work is going on a dressing of gas lime 
could be given on the lower part of the 
trenches, and also in the UDner Dart. This 
should be done about two months bef * 
planting anything in such a soil. ^ [ 
could, however, remedy the matter in spri < 
by giving a top dressing of ordinary slac f 
lime when preparing the ground for pla. 
ing or sowing. Possibly this dressing f 
lime would be the best thing to do at pi 
sent and wait till autumn, when the grorl 
is again being trenched or dug, before - 
plying gas lime. 
SOILS AND MANURES . 
3663. Wood shavings and Manure, 
I have seme difficulty in getting sta; 
manure without shavings in it that have h 1 
used for bedding the horses to keep thi 
dry. 'Can you say if these are harmful 1 ) 
vegetables in any way and, if so, what 1 
the corrective? (J. B., Notts.) 
The chief objection we have to shavin 
is that they lie in the soil a long time - 
fore decaying properly, and would a . 
serve to shelter various insects. In dry sc ; 
they would take longer to decay than th ■ 
of a wet nature and would make the st 
difficult to dig. Y'ou can get over the d: ■ 
culty, however, by shaking out all the rani - 
material, which may be burned and n 
ashes added to the residue of the manure > 
advantage. 
3664. Treatment of Stable Manure. 
1 should be much obliged if you wou 
give me some hints as to the treatment 
stable manure before using it in the gardi 
I use both straw and peat moss in my stabl 1 
(H. Anderson, Herts.) 
The manure should be fermented to so.- 
extent before using it, and the ranker t- 
litter is the more necessity there is for fi 
menting it. If your soil is heavy, there , 
no necessity for carrying the fermentati. 
beyond a week. Do not allow it to heat 1. 
violently, which it would do if put up 
a very large heap and if fairly dry at t- 
time. You can prevent violent heating 
distributing some water over the heap 
means of a rosed watering pot. Peat m< 
fibre is very absorbent of the liquid 
stables, and for that reason is valuab 
It should not require much fermentation 
make it suitable. If yn>u can use it ah 
it has been under preparation for a week,: 
would still have retained most of its pi 
perties. The chief difficulty is with manu 
that has got to lie, it may be, for sor 
months, before it is used, and at the sar 
t ine is exposed to washing by rain and sno- 
Manure that is undergoing fermentati 
should be kept fairly dry, so as to avo 
washing out the most fertile ingredients, 
good plan is to have a shed consisting of 
■wooden roof over the place where the manu 
is kept. Not many, however, go to that e 
pense. If you could get the manure into t 
ground a week after it has been placed in 
heap to ferment it would answer your pu 
pose admirably. 
3665. Manure for Roses. 
I am preparing some ground for Ros 
and have an opportunity of getting two kino 
of manure, one from horses bedded wi 
moss littei and one from byres where stra- 
has been used for bedding the cows. I i 
tend taking both kinds, but what I wa 
to know is which cf the manures would I 
most useful for the Roses. The cow manu 
will be rather rank. Should it be used : 
this condition or should it be more rottc 
before using? (F. Wilson, Middlesex.) 
Both are excellent manures. The mo 
litter is very absorbent, and if well wettc 
with liquid from the stable it should be 
rich manure. In itself, however, it is no 
perhaps, so good for Roses as cow manur 
which is cooler and more lasting. t\ 
should, therefore, prefer the cow manure f<. 
Roses. It should be fermented for about 
