1 '* 50 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
March 6, 1909. 
The Flower Garden. 
Propagating Bedding Plant6. 
The flower gardener will now be busy 
taking stock ot his bedding-cut plants with 
a view to increasing the numbers \yhere re¬ 
quired. 
Although extra cuttings may have been 
inserted last autumn a certain percentage of 
them would fail to rcot or die off through 
various causes. It is too late in the old 
year when losses often occur for the culti¬ 
vator to make good the deficiency, simply be¬ 
cause the old stock plants have been dis¬ 
carded, and also on account of the lateness 
of the season for striking cuttings. But now 
young shoots are growing freely and the 
heat from the sun is increasing. Bottom heat 
can also be obtained from hotbeds ; so that 
thousands of. young cuttings may be quickly 
rooted and make available plants for the 
flower beds. Insert about 10 per cent, more 
than will be required, then the housing ac 
commodation will not be unduly overtaxed, 
and a margin will be left for failures. 
Various Cuttings. 
Fig. 1 shows how to make the cuttings, 
namely, A, zonal Pelargonium; B, Mesern- 
bryanthemum; C, Fuchsia; D, Lobelia; 
E, Coleus Verschafieltii. 
Of course younger wood of zonals are 
produced in spring than in August; it is 
more tender, but such must be used, and in 
the case of these, as well as in that of the 
other kinds, a little bottom heat will be 
useful. 
The compost should be light and sandy. 
For the small cuttings such as those of the 
Lobelia, Fuchsia, Mesembryanthemum, and 
Coleus, a large percentage of the compost 
should consist of sweet leaf soil and very 
coarse, washed sand. 
Several cuttings of zonals may be inserted 
around the sides of 35 and 5 in. pots, but the 
smaller kinds may be put in more thickly all 
over the sand}'' surface of the soil in the pots 
or pans. 
Carnations in Frames. 
Except in frosty weather, the plants grow¬ 
ing in cool frames should be fully exposed 
to the air and sunshine, as it will soon be 
time to plant them in their flowering quar¬ 
ters. In the meantime prepare the border 
for them. Take the first opportunity, when 
the soil is dry, to deeply dig the latter and 
enrich it with manure; but the manure must 
be well mixed with the soil about 9 ins. 
below the surface, so that the roots of the 
young plants will not come into contact 
with it until they have got well hold of the 
soil. 
Sweet Peas. 
It will also be advisable to trench the 
ground intended for iSweet Peas, as the 
plants must be put in early in April. Keep 
them safe from frost, but do not give undue 
protection as such treatment would weaken 
them considerably. Freely manure the soil, 
net only where the rows or clumps are to 
be, but also several feet on both sides as 
the roots of the Pea plants penetrate the 
soil to a considerable depth, and also travel 
a long way beyond the lines or rows on both 
sides, : 
Leave the surface portion of the soil in a 
lumpy state; it will then get pulverised 
Fig. 1 shows how to prepare cuttings of 
bedding -plants ; A, Zonal Pelargonium ; B, 
Mesembryanthemum ; C, Fuchsia ; D, Lo¬ 
belia; E, Coleus. 
and break up freely when the time comes for 
the planting of the Peas. 
Mowing Machines. 
The mowing machines and other tools 
used in the flower garden during the sum¬ 
mer season were, no doubt, put aside in. a 
clean state last autumn. Nevertheless, it 
will be advisable to examine them at once 
and clean them thoroughly again, using oil 
freely. Also get the machines repaired if 
necessary. 
The Fruit Garden. 
Mulching Newly-Planted Fruit Trees. 
Fig. 2 shows how to put on a mulch of 
half-rotted manure around newly-planted 
Currants, Gooseberries or Raspberries, also 
Apples, Pears and other kinds of fruit trees. 
Do not break up the manure too finely, but 
leave it rather lumpy as shown in the sketch. 
Cover the surface of the soil to a distance 
of about 2 ft. all round from the stem of 
the tree. The mulch keeps the roots warm 
in the early part of spring and also pre¬ 
vents them getting too dry. The nutriment 
contained in the manure gets washed down 
to the roots gradually by the rains and so 
the trees receive benefit in several ways from 
one application. 
Fig. 2 shows how to put half-rotted manure 
on as a mulch to newly-planted bush fruit 
tr° 
Gooseberries. 
Where Gooseberry bushes have been lef 
unpruned, owing to the possible destructio: 
of the buds by birds during the winter, n 
time should be lost now in getting the wer 
compI)eted. The buds will soon be vel 
advanced in growth and very late prurfim 
is undesirable. 
Nut Bushes. 
All necessary pruning of Cob Nut bushe : 
should be completed as quickly as possible 
Be careful not to cut away any nut-bearins 
branches. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Horseradish. 
In heavy, retentive soil a very good way 
to plant Horseradish is shown in Fig. 3. 
So grown, they thicken considerably near the 
crowns and the leaves remain healthy and 
of good colour throughout the season. 
Ridges should be formed about 1 ft. high 
and 2 ft. 6 in. apart, as shown in the sketch. 
A shows the slips or crowns and the manner 
of planting them; B, the new leaves pene¬ 
trating the ridge C on both sides. 
Horseradish is generally grown in some 
out-of-the-way corner in the garden, and it 
is a mistake to treat the plants so. Grow 
fewer plants and allow them ample reem 
in a good position in the garden. 
Chicory, Seakale and Rhubarb. 
The last batches of these roots may now be j 
covered with pots, boxes or tubs in their 
permanent beds, and forced under hotbeds. 
A succession of all three kinds mav be ob- 
Fig. 3 shows how to plant Horseradish on 
ridges; A, Horseradish slips or crowns; B 
shows how the leaves appear; C, ridge. 
tained by covering the roots with pots or 
boxes, and aShes' in the case of Seakale with¬ 
out any hotbed material being used. 
The Beds for Carrots and Beetroot. 
WTien the soil is dry, commence at cne 
end of the plot of ground which is to be 
devoted to these crops and deeply stir up 
the whole of the soil. It cannot be made tco 
fine for the roots, and time devoted to the 
breaking up of lumpy soil is certainly well 
spent. 
Early Cauliflowers. 
Young plants raised in boxes must be 
duly transplanted in other boxes, or beds in 
cold frames, at a distance of 3 inches apart. 
When left too long in the seed-box the plants 
become weakly. 
Foxglove. 
Orchids for Amateurs. 
Methods of Maintaining; Moisture in 
Orchid Houses. 
1 am very pleased to think that some ferv 
of the readers of “Orchids for Amateurs” 
are availing themselves of the opportunity, 
given them some time ago by the Editor of 
Tite Gardening World, to submit questions, 
which not only affords an opportunity of ac¬ 
quiring information, but also assists me in 
my endeavours to be serviceable. I am sorry 
that Mr. H. E. Staddcn should think tha f 
