THE GARDENING WORLD 
March 6, 1909. 
1 5a 
3 take too much for granted in dealing with 
the ordinary amateur. I am afraid he can¬ 
not have been in close contact with the pages 
•of The Gardening World for the past ten 
.or twelve years or he would have found no 
necessity for the “A” portion of No. 1 
question, namely, “the various methods 
.adopted for keeping houses thoroughly satur¬ 
ated with moisture. For instance, some re- 
•commend sea sand (Boyle), some old cinders 
(Williams), some water channels in floors of 
the houses, etc. Some, again, use slates 'on 
the staging, covering same with moisture- 
retaining substances. Which is considered 
the best and most expedient method? ” 
I hope that H. E. S. is not one of those 
fickle gardeners, who, being carried about 
by every wind that blows, may -finally be- 
■come mixed up in such an entanglement as 
to find himself altogether disappointed in 
his aims and desires. 
Outside Conditions the Guide. 
I have frequently referred to the, various 
methods of retaining the proper moisture re¬ 
quirements in the various departments of the 
Orchid houses at different seasons of the 
year, and when dealing with individual sub¬ 
jects have generally noted the cultural re¬ 
quirements throughout its various stages of 
growth. This being so, H. E. S. will 
readily perceive that I have never recom¬ 
mended keeping the houses saturated with 
moisture throughout the year. I must state 
for his guidance that the outside conditions 
must be the chief items to be considered in 
affording safe moisture conditions in the 
atmosphere of our houses. 
Low Temperature, Little Moisture. 
I have frequently advised amateurs in this 
column to this effect, that if the plants are 
subjected to low temperatures through cold 
and unfavourable outside conditions, the 
atmospheric moisture should be reduced ac¬ 
cordingly. We never permit any of our 
houses to be damped until the temperature 
has reached the normal degree as I consider 
that little ill effects are experienced with a 
correspondingly dry atmosphere to the low 
degree of temperature. Therefore he will 
readily perceive that whatever substance 
"he may employ for the purpose of retaining 
the required atmospheric conditions, it 
should be of such a nature as to be under 
perfect command, that is to say, be easily 
reduced or increased as the changeable out¬ 
side conditions demand. 
Double Staging. 
It is certainly desirable to have some¬ 
thing between the direct heat rising from the 
"hot-water pipes and the plants. I certainly 
would recommend a double staging, that is, 
a permanent stage and a light trellis, a port¬ 
able one, raised a few inches above it. I 
find a very good plan is to make the bottom 
•stage of teak, 2^ in. by ii in., the latter 
being placed about half-an-inch apart. This, 
covered with coke breeze, gives a good mois¬ 
ture-retaining substance, which a little ex¬ 
cess of fire heat quickly dries up when occa¬ 
sions require it. 
Bare Ground for Floors is Best. 
Cement paths or anything but the bare 
ground covered with ashes is alto¬ 
gether undesirable in the successful culti¬ 
vation of plants. The best means of re¬ 
taining a saturated atmosphere is by fre¬ 
quently damping the floors and staging. 
Syringing overhead must also be done at fre¬ 
quent intervals, but I am afraid the satur¬ 
ated atmosphere will never prove successful 
in Orchid culture. Treat Orchids as you 
would treat other plants; give them their 
required temperature, pure atmospheric con¬ 
ditions, and not as subjects requiring the 
petting of a glass case, and it soon becomes 
realised that Orchids are after all plants, 
rod. if treated as such, their cultivation be- 
: vs an assured fact. 
The Amateur’s Greenhouse. 
Preparing the “ Bedding Stuff.” 
There is a great deal of real work to be 
attended to in the greenhouse at this, time 
of the year, particularly where it is greatly- 
utilised for the preparation of “bedding 
stuff.” Such should now be pushed on with 
all haste, and the young plants, as soon as 
rooted, may be potted or boxed off into open 
soil containing a good percentage of silver 
sand, patting lightly, as the object is to 
induce the formation of many roots, thereby 
insuring a good basis for the young plants. 
Many of the greenhouse subjects proper 
will need staking and tying in as they make 
new growth, and this should not be neglected 
owing to pressure of other operations, or 
the effects will be very apparent later on. 
Free ventilation, varying with the prevail¬ 
ing climatic conditions, should be given, 
excluding, of course, cold winds or frosty 
air, and watering or spraying, if done early 
in the day, will not cause the foliage to 
be disfigured by the sun’s rays, which even 
now bear very considerable power, as evi¬ 
denced by the rapidity with which the glass 
runs up under their influence. 
Old-fashioned Musk. 
Of the real old Mimulus moschatus one 
never tires, and some should be propagated 
at intervals to ensure a supply of fragrant 
flowering plants. There are various methods 
of doing this—by seeds, cuttings, or by 
splitting up the old roots, and either opera¬ 
tion may be carried out now. 
Every little point will grow if inserted 
in sandy soil and placed in gentle heat, 
whilst by pulling asunder the old plants 
and dibbing the rooted portions round the 
side of a five-inch pot, once pinching back 
when growth recommences, fine specimens 
can quickly be obtained. These, plants de¬ 
light in a moist, warm situation, and must 
be shaded from the direct rays of the summer 
sun, which, if unchecked, will soon leave 
its mark on the delicate foliage. 
Solartum Capsicastrum. 
The value of this fine berry-bearing So- 
lanum is proved every winter, and to obtain 
a supply of young plants for another sea¬ 
son, seed should be sown now in pots or 
pans containing a sandy compost. If the 
temperature is kept at about sixty degrees, 
the seedlings will soon he large enough to 
transplant into boxes, allowing plenty of 
room between each. AfteT this, pot them off 
singly into small pots, and as they progress 
harden, them off preparatory to planting out 
in the open about the last week or so in 
May. 
Old plants that have been doing duty 
through the dull weather from which we 
are new emerging will he showing signs of 
wear. The berries will be shrivelling up, 
and in some cases dropping off, though the 
ever green foliage will yet be presentable 
unless, watering Kas been neglected. Go 
over each plant .and carefully cut back with 
a sharp knife all the main shoots, giving 
an eve the while to the shape and symmetry 
of the plant. Then keep them in a cool house 
or frame till planting out the seedlings, 
when the same treatment will suit them both. 
Treatment of CalacJi«ms. 
These fine foliage, plants require a warm 
house to grow them successfully. The tubers 
may now be le-started into active growth, 
but great care must be taken as the necessary 
moisture is verv apt to rot them in the early 
stages. 
It is better not to pot them up straight¬ 
away. but to half-bury them in fibre or leaf- 
mould on a warm staging, spraying occa¬ 
sionally. whilst a good, steady temperature 
of about sixtv-five degrees is maintained. 
A good-sized tuber will send out several 
"eyes,” and can be cut up if it is desired 
to increase the number of plants, or pottec 
up in its entirety, if large specimens be tht 
object aimed at. A good supply of crock.' 
should be placed in the pots, as during th< 
summer, when in full growth, an almost un 
limited supply of water is necessary foi 
their welfare. 
Epacris After Flowering:. 
These popular greenhouse shrubs will scon 
have finished flowering, and no better time 
can be for pruning them back. The aim 
should be to obtain strong growth in pre¬ 
ference to numerous weak ones, and these, 
well ripened during the autumn, should pro¬ 
vide a fine display of bloom for another sea¬ 
son. Cut the plants back, therefore, rather 
severely, the erect-growing varieties par¬ 
ticularly so, whilst' those with a naturallv 
drooping habit require less drastic treatment, 
the shoots being merely shortened. After 
being cut back, the plants should be kept 
somewhat close for a time, to induce them 
to break out afresh into healthy new growths. 
Cyperus alternifolius. 
Many amateurs grow this fine plant, bu: 
few, I am afraid, biing it to perfection. 
The leaves turn discoloured at the tips, dis¬ 
figuring the plant, and the soil or other con¬ 
ditions are blamed for the lack of success. 
The cause, however, is not far to seek when 
one remembers that it is in reality a beg 
plant, and, like Spiraeas, Arums, etc., 
should, whilst growing, be supplied most 
liberally with moisture to the roots. 
A very pleasing form is C.a. variegatus. 
both stems and leaves being striped with 
white, making it most elegant for table cr 
other decoration. Mix a little peat with the 
soil, and give plenty of -water, and there 
should be no question of failure. 
G. A. F. 
-- - 
fork in Small Kitchen Gardens 
in March. 
Work in small kitchen gardens during 
this month entirely depends on the sea¬ 
son. The ground should have been pre¬ 
pared during the winter, then if it is dry, 
rows of Peas, Leeks, Beans, Spinach, 
Beetroot, should be sown, and a small 
Onion bed made. If autumn Onions have 
been sown these may be transplanted. 
Short rows of Peas sown once in three 
weeks are the most convenient, and 
Radishes and Lettuces .should be sown at 
similar intervals. It is far better to have 
a little of several things. 
Towards the end of the month most win¬ 
ter greens may be sown, and if one have 
room, a small hotbed could be made, 
where Celery, Cucumbers, Marrows, and 
Tomatos could be raised. 
This month is a very good time to dress 
grass with some finely-sifted soil and also 
to renew gravel paths. 
It is better to delay all sowing till the 
end of the month if bad weather prevails, 
and no time will be lost, for seeds sown 
at a favourable moment will overtake 
those which have had to fight against un¬ 
favourable weather. 
Asparagus can be grown in small gar¬ 
dens. the beds for which should be 
heavily dressed with common salt. Rhu¬ 
barb and Seakale should be gradually 
uncovered if they have been forced, and 
cut. 
H. J. Chapman. 
D. Sparkes. 
