178 
March 13, 1909. 
■ will result in stronger growth being made, 
and the former will prevent a too luxuriant 
growth. 
Dahlias. 
The tubers of last year’s growth may be 
planted again this year if they are plenti¬ 
ful, and prove quite satisfactory, but older 
tubers in clusters are not so serviceable. 
They should be at once placed in large pots, 
or deep boxes, or even on the stage of a 
warm house or pit, and covered with a com¬ 
post of sandy loam, leaf-soil and sand, just 
leaving the crowns visible. In a very short 
Fig. 2. Planting Raspberries ; A shows 
the cut-bach cane, and the fibrous roots which 
must be carefully preserved ; B shows the 
canes -planted in rows. 
time new shoots will grow, which, in due 
course, will be available as cuttings. 
Watering;. 
As the sun’s rays become stronger, plants; 
and especially seedlings, growing in small 
pots, quickly dry up, and so a constant su¬ 
pervision is necessary. Use tepid water. 
The Fruit Garden. 
Raspberries. 
Canes may still be planted. It is really 
wiser to delay the planting of the canes 
until the present month, where it proved im¬ 
possible to carry it out last autumn, than to 
put them in while the soil was cold, and in 
some districts very moist, during January 
and February. 
The canes must be cut down at the time of 
planting, as shown in Fig. 2 at A and B. 
Select canes of medium strength and possess¬ 
ing plenty of fibrous roots, as shown at A. 
B shows the canes planted in rows. The 
rows should be 5 ft. apart, and the canes 
nine inches asunder in the rows. Put on a 
good mulch of leaf-soil first and then one of 
half-rotted manure, directly the planting is 
finished, and do not forget to give the newly- 
planted canes a thorough watering. If the 
roots be kept in a moist medium the plants 
will soon get established. 
Nailing-up Wall Trees. 
Continue to fasten the branches of wall 
trees in position, getting on with those on 
north-west and north walls ; but the branches 
of Peaches, Nectarines and Apricots on 
south walls may be left as long as possible 
before they are nailed or tied. When fas¬ 
tened close to the walls or wires, they are 
kept comparatively warm, and so the buds 
develop more quickly and are, consequently, 
exposed to late frosts. When left untied for 
a time the buds are kept cooler, and are, in 
this way, retarded. 
All Pears, Cherries and Plums may be 
nailed or tied forthwith if the work has not 
already been done. 
Birds and Buds. 
The birds will quickly find the most for¬ 
ward buds and destroy them unless they are 
scared away. Two pieces of broken mirror 
glass suspended among the branches by 
pieces of string, and moved every few days, 
will scare away many birds, and sparrows 
do not like black thread passed from branch 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
to branch to form a network on Gooseberry 
bushes. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
South Borders. 
These borders are very valuable in spring 
as many early crops of vegetables can be 
raised on such. Fig. 3 shows how to form 
useful beds with narrow paths between them. 
A shows the paths ; and B, B, the beds. 
Three crops may be taken from several of 
these borders. Early English, or French 
Horn Carrots may be sown in drills 10 in. 
apart, and a few seeds of Wood’s Long 
frame Radish, and Cos Let'fuces may be sown 
broadcast. The Radishes will soon come to 
maturity, and the Lettuces will be available 
for transplanting, leaving the Carrots to 
grow to a nice size. 
Turnips should occupy another bed, and 
seeds of Cauliflowers, Cabbages, Brussels 
Sprouts and Leeks must be sown on others. 
Sticking Peas. 
The young plants from the first sowings 
will now be ready for the sticks. Do not de¬ 
fer this work until the young plants fall 
over through lack of support, but draw up 
some soil to both sides of the row and put 
in the sticks when the plants are quite 
small. 
Dwarf and Runner Beans. 
Of course it is too early to sow seeds of 
these in the open border, but it is a suitable 
time for digging up and well manuring the 
ground which is to be devoted to these crops, 
and time will be saved when sowing is neces¬ 
sary. 
Foxglove. 
The Amateur’s Greenhouse. 
Spring-Cleaning. 
The horticultural enthusiast is looking 
forward eagerly to warmer and brighter 
days, whilst even now the plants under his 
care are making rapid and vigorous growth. 
This, however, they will not do unassisted, 
and the greenhouse should at this season un¬ 
dergo a thorough spring-cleaning, with, if 
necessary, a fresh coat of paint to lighten 
and brighten the interior. 
Every plant, too, should be gone over care¬ 
fully, repotted, or richly top-dressed, and 
afterwards all should be arranged to the 
best advantage; that is to say, each one 
should occupy that position which best suits 
its individual requirements. I may mention 
en passant that one great cause of failure, 
with novices is the desire to grow indiscrim¬ 
inately, in one small structure, different 
species of plants needing very varied treat¬ 
ment, and consequently, whatever conditions 
are allowed to prevail, some at least are 
bound to be partially or wholly a failure. 
Instead of select’ng his stock at random the 
amateur should take into consideration the 
capabilities of his greenhouse, and choose 
accordingly. 
Nierembergia gracilis. 
This is really a beautiful plant for conser¬ 
vatory decoration during the summer 
months, when beautiful flowers terminate 
every shoot. Young plants from autumn cut¬ 
tings, which have been wintered in the 
greenhouse, may now be shifted into five- 
or six-inch pots according to size, and in 
these they may be allowed to flower. Sound 
loam, to which has been added, say, one- 
third of well-rotted manure and silver sand, 
will be found a most suitable medium in 
which to . grow them, and of course, after 
repotting, more water must be given to en¬ 
courage healthy and vigorous growth. 
Seed may also be started at this time in 
any warm house, but when a few good plants 
have been obtained, it is the better way to 
increase them by cuttings. 
The Beautiful Stephanotis. 
The dainty-flowering Stephanotis floi 
bunda is a stove subject that none who pc 
sess the necessary accommodation can affoi 
to dispense with, and additional plants m; 
be obtained at this season of the year by ta 
ing cuttings of last year’s growths. T 1 
shoots selected should be three or foi 
inches in length, severed with a sharp kni 
immediately below a joint. After beir 
trimmed of the bottom-most leaves ea< 
should be inserted in a small pot of fibre 
loam and coarse sand, the pots being part 
plunged in the fibre or ashes of the prop 
gating bed. 
Keep them fairly close till struck, and 
the temperature is not allowed to fall t 
low 65 degrees evidence will soon be fort 
coming that root-action has commenced. 
Sowing Primulas. 
Few things give greater satisfaction und 
amateur culture than the Primulas in v 
riety, and some remarkably fine strains 
seed are now obtainable. This is an exet 
lent time to start a first batch of seed, to 
followed in April and May by further sc 
ings for succession. 
Seed-pans are preferable to pots or bo> 
for this purpose, and the compost shou 
consist mainly of finely-sifted leaf-moul 
to which has been added about one-four 
part of loam and sand. Make the surfa 
level and sow the seed thinly and evenl 
just covering it with soil, and place t 
pan in gentle, steady heat, covering it wi 
a sheet of glass to prevent undue evaporati 
of moisture. The resultant seedlings shou. 
be pricked off ere they crowd each other, a 
the pans or boxes containing them partial 
shaded during bright sunshine, whilst cc 
stant attention as regards watering is, 
course, necessary. 
Graceful Humeas. 
Well-grown specimens of Humea elega; 
nearly always excite remark, whether 1 
greenhouse or conservatory, or planted ct 
during summer time. The plants may n<- 
be encouraged into fresh growth, the roo, 
which should have been kept nearly d - 
since November, being thoroughly, thoui 
not over-watered ; but strange to say, they 1 
not seem to appreciate syringing, exert 
when the summer sun is at its fiercest. I- 
potting may now be done if necessary, 1ft 
largest specimens, however, will only p- 
quire eight- or ten-inch pots, and to the c 1- 
post should be added a handful of chared 
to assist in keeping the soil in a sweet ste. 
Half-hardy Annuals. 
Such things as Stocks, Asters, Sai- 
glossis, etc., are always required by the aa- 
teur for summer bedding purposes, |Q 
home-raised plants in plenty can always" 1 -’ 
obtained by the possessor of a greenho.? 
If not already done, the seed should be si?n 
