THE GARDENING WORLD. March 13, 1909. 
hide the wood and give it a green and pleas¬ 
ing appearance. (F. Ward, Birmingham.) 
To save the trouble and disfigurement of 
driving in many nails to hold up the 
climbers you should get some strong Vine 
eyes to drive in the wooden posts at each 
end of the house; every other wire should 
be a foot above its neighbour. You can then 
strain wires to these Vine eyes and thus se¬ 
cure the means of tying up the climbers. 
One of the finest evergreens we can mention 
for a low wall is Berberis stenophylla, with 
golden-yellow flowers. Escallomia macran- 
tha with rose-coloured flowers is also ever¬ 
green. Cydonia Maulei is a dwarf-growing 
Quince with salmon-orange flowers suc¬ 
ceeded by fruits that are strongly scented. 
It is, of course deciduous, but the flowers 
in spring and the fruits in autumn are 
highly attractive. 
3698. Mistleto Berries. 
I am desirous of grafting some Mistleto 
berries into my Apple trees. Would you 
kindly state in your next issue how it is to 
be done and also where I could get some 
ripe berries? (Mistleto, Staffs.) 
We do not speak of grafting Mistleto ber¬ 
ries upon Apple trees, because there is no 
such thing as cutting necessary. If you 
have some berries, all that is necessary is 
to rub them on a smooth piece of young 
bark until the slime in the berry. fixes the 
seed.to the bark. To put it out of the sight 
of birds the better plan is to rub the berries 
on the underside of the branch and a piece 
of netting or cloth can be tied over the bark 
to keep the birds away until germination 
has taken place and the young Mistleto has 
become deeply embedded in the bark of the 
tree. You thus see that the operation is very 
simple. We cannot tell you where berries 
of Mistleto may be procured at this time of 
the year. 'Most of the Mistleto berries in 
this country come from abroad. Little or 
none of the Mistleto grown in this country 
reaches the market, as lit is. used by people 
who possess the grounds in which it is grow¬ 
ing. Your best plan would be to wait until 
Christmas, then visit the market and buy 
some berries. By March the birds would 
have eaten any berrfes that were left un¬ 
gathered. 
ROSES. 
3699. Training’ Roses on a Wooden 
Arch. 
I shall be thankful if you will give me 
your advice on the following. I have a 
W. A. Richardson four years old against 
a brick wall facing east. As I had to cut 
away some of the front growth last year I 
am thinking of putting a wooden trellis 
arch across the path. In the bed opposite 
I have a Prince Camille de Rohan (dwarf). 
Can I, by careful pruning, induce it up the 
other side? (Lamb, Middlesex.) 
The Hybrid Perpetual Rose Prince Ca¬ 
mille de Rohan is best grown in the bush 
form or as a standard. By allowing it to 
make long stems, you may cover one side of 
the arch, but the Roses would not be so 
good. If left unpruned, in order to cover 
the arch, the side shoots given from it would 
be weak and the Roses small. A better plan 
would be to get a Rose that is naturally a 
climber, such as Ddrothy Perkins, Lady Gay 
or Longworth Rambler. These would easily 
be a match for W. A. Richardson. 
3700. Planting Dwarf Roses. 
Am I too late to plant dwarf Roses this 
season as I have a piece of ground that I 
am having trenched and manured, and which 
£ think would suit them? It is dark in 
colour, but rather heavy and sticky, as if 
there was clay in it. (M. Wocds, Sussex.) 
It is not too late for planting Roses yet 
as the cold winter has served to keep them 
back, but if you can manage to plant them 
during this month so much the better. It 
will still further assist the Roses to make a 
good start if you prune them at the time 
of planting. This serves to prevent them 
losing moisture which the mutilated roots 
are ill able to supply. It will be all the 
better for the Roses if the soil has been 
trenched a little while before planting as it 
can settle down. 
3 701. Budding Brier Stocks. 
Being an old reader of your valuable 
paper Ihe Gardening World I owe many 
thanks to its pages respecting the prepara¬ 
tion of and budding of the standard brier, 
but am not quite sure as to the preparation 
of stocks for dwarf Roses. (1) Should I 
have budded in July, 1908, on (A) or (B) 
of the accompanying sketch, as (A) appears 
to have got old and black in colour? {2) 
When should the wild Dog Rose be sown 
and would a gentle hotbed and frame suf¬ 
fice? (Dorking, Surrey.) 
Judging from your drawing the stock 
should have been quite strong enough for 
budding in July, August or September, 
1908. We do not think you are too late yet, 
however, as it is not a question of age. We 
should not advise you to bud on (B) when 
budding dwarf stocks. The object of the 
operator is to select a position on the main 
stem of the plant below the branches so 
that when the Rose is ultimately transplanted 
into its permanent position the point at 
which the bud was inserted should be 2 in. 
below the surface of the soil. Next July, 
therefore, as soon as growth has advanced 
sufficiently to make the bark rise freely, se¬ 
lect a position on the main stem just above 
(C) and in line with it. With a trowel or 
some other handy tool scrape away the soil 
from the base of the stem, and you will 
find a position where the bark will lift 
readily any time in July, August or Sep¬ 
tember when the stock is growing freely. 
Fruits of the wild Dog Rose should be col¬ 
lected late in autumn when they are thor¬ 
oughly ripe. Break the fruit so that the 
so-called seeds may be rubbed out. This 
may be done in a sieve sufficiently large to 
let the seeds fall through, while the fleshy 
portion of the fruit is retained. Make up 
some pots or pans of soil, sow the seeds and 
cover them about ^ in. with soil of the same 
light sandy character as the rest. They' 
take some time to germinate, but we advise 
you to sow immediately to prevent the seeds 
getting dried up, or you can keep them in 
moist sand till spring, which will answer 
the same purpose. If you sow them in pots 
or pans in the autumn they will be ready 
to place Tnto heat in spring. The heat will 
encourage some of the seeds to germinate 
after the previous preparation, but in many 
cases some of the seeds may lie another 
season. If you are in a hurry to get stocks 
some of them might be induced to start m 
heat in this way, while others could be 
stood in a cold frame and left there until 
they germinate of their own accord. Dur¬ 
ing summer, of course, it will be necessary 
to water the pans, but if stood in a shady 
position or in a frame facing the north they 
can easily be kept moist by a good watering 
now and again. We do not think it would 
be any advantage to plunge the pots or pans 
in a hotbed, although they might be stood 
on the surface of it, late in spring, after 
they have been in the pots for some time to 
make previous preparation. 
VEGETABLES. 
3702. Planting; Asparagus. 
Is it too late to plant Asparagus this 
year ? I have a piece of ground which I 
think suitable for the purpose, as it is deep 
and rather heavy. At present I am trench 
ing and manuring it heavily, and hope I can 
plant it this year. Are three-year-old plants 
the best? (Asparagus, Hereford.) 
You are still in good time for the plant¬ 
ing of Asparagus, as that usually gives the 
best results when accomplished in April. 
The best time is to have the Asparagus 
plants lifted when growth is just commenc¬ 
ing. Another point to be careful about is 
to have the roots well covered up and pro¬ 
tected from the air until they are planted. 
If the fleshy roofs are allowed to get dry 
by exposure they lose a great deal of their 
energy and some plants may even die alto¬ 
gether. The tissue of the fleshy roots being 
thin, they very soon suffer when exposed to 
drying winds. Besides manure you should 
also use a good proportion of sand for the 
top .layer, digging this into the soil just 
previous to measuring off the space and tak¬ 
ing out the trenches for the roots. Three- 
year-old roots are better than two-year-old 
roots, but it very much depends upon the 
treatment they had in the seed beds as to 
the actual size of the plants. Whichever size 
you get you should not cut any Hicks the 
first season. Allow the plants plenty of 
room to make strong growth and the sticks 
that come up in spring will be the stronger 
for it. 
3703. Potatos Diseased. 
I shall be more than pleased if you will 
answer a few questions on Potatos and soils 
which I have enclosed in this box. I have 
been interested in gardening about fifteen 
years, and I have never seen any Potatos 
like those which I have sent you before. 
I get them diseased every year on the out¬ 
side, but those which I have sent you are 
different and look like good Potatos on the 
outside, but when cut in two we find they 
are bad. (1) What is the cause of this Po¬ 
tato being like this? (2) What do you call 
this complaint? (3) What kind of soil do 
you call this for Potatos ? (4) I would like 
you to mention six or more sorts which 
would suit our soil—I mean main crop or 
late Potatos. This is Sensation which I have 
sent you. (S. H. R. V., Cornwall.) 
(1) The cause of the Potato having brown 
spots .in the centre is a fungus. (2) The 
disease is the ordinary Potato disease caused 
by Phytophthora infestans. This form of 
the disease is caused by spores in the au¬ 
tumn being washed down through the soil 
or through the opening which is often made 
around the stem, thus causing the disease. 
Under .the microscope it is seen that the 
starch that should have been in those brown 
spots has been destroyed by the fungus. (3) 
The soil you sent us had a good deal of 
vegetable mould in it with a fair amount of 
quartz grit. We should say that it- is a very 
good soil for growing Potatos or most other 
garden vegetables, but if you have been 
growing Potatos in it for a number of years 
past you may feel sure that it will get in¬ 
fested with the resting spores of the Potato 
disease. We should advise you to dig or 
trench it, giving it a dressing of lime, and 
plant the Potatos elsewhere for a year or 
two before again planting in this. If you 
have no other ground, then treat it as we 
have said and make sure that no tubers are 
left to decay in the soil and no Potato 
haulm. Indeed, everything should be burned 
in the autumn to destroy the disease as much 
as possible. (4) First-class main crop Po¬ 
tatos are The Factor, The Crofter, Up-to- 
Date, Windsor Castle, Duchess of Cornwall, 
Northern Star, King Edward VII. and Sen¬ 
sation. The last is the variety you have al¬ 
ready got, but a change of seed is advisable 
if many of the tubers are as bad as those you 
sent us. 
