March 20, 1909. 
*92 THE GARDENING WORLD. 
tiun one peck as being a nice dressing—and 
then follow with a dressing of gritty soil, the 
more gritty it is the better, passed through 
a half-inch mesh sieve, and some well-rotted 
manure. Use two parts of soil and one 
part of manure thoroughly mixed together. 
Three pecks per square rod will be a very 
good dressing to put on ; then roll the lawn 
frequently. Showery weather may soon be 
expected— during April—and then the ap¬ 
pearance, of the lawn will soon be improved. 
Plant Gladioli. 
Bulbs of the Gandavensis, Floribundus and 
Splendens section, may be planted at once in 
well prepared ground. Those of other sec¬ 
tions may also be put in. If the bulbs are 
planted in nursery beds, allow a distance of 
16 inches between the rows and 9 inches from 
bulb to bulb in the rows. A depth of 
4 inches of soil will be sufficient on the bulbs 
at this season. Where autumn planting is 
done, the bulbs should be put in several 
inches deeper. Before planting the bulbs 
dig the soil deeply and put in well-rotted 
manure, if this work was not done last 
autumn. If the soil be well tilled, there 
need not be much difficulty in growing fine 
spikes of blooms in almost all kinds, but a 
medium light, sandy loam is the most suit¬ 
able. 
These plants look remarkably well in 
clumps in herbaceous borders as well as in 
the flower beds. 
Fig. 1 shows how the bulbs should be 
planted, namely, 4 inches deep and 9 inches 
asunder in the rows. Where very clayey 
soil obtains, and the gardener wishes to grow 
the Gladiolus, he should place some gritty 
soil or road drift both under and on the bulbs 
before filling in the holes or trench, as the 
case may be. 
Protect Seedling-6. 
The flower gardener will now be very busy 
among his seedlings, and it will be a very 
anxious time for him, as a good or bad dis¬ 
play of blossom during the summer months 
depends so largely upon the successful rais¬ 
ing of the tender and half-hardy annuals. 
Protection from frosts, cold winds, and 
also brilliant sunshine, is necessary, as the 
tiny plants soon get spoiled if neglected, 
even for a few hours. 
The Fruit Garden. 
Black Currant Bushes. 
This fruit is so useful that the owners of 
healthy bushes should take all the care of 
them that they can. The bud mite is a 
troublesome pest, and every endeavour must 
be made to stamp it out. One never knows 
when the trees are going to be attacked, and 
there is not any known cure. The cultivator 
can easily distinguish which buds are affec¬ 
ted and which are free. The affected buds 
are shown at A, A, in Fig. 2. B, B, slow 
the normal buds. C also shows a bud free 
from the mite, and D shows one attacked. 
Of course, the presence of the mite can 
be readily known by the enlarged buds. The 
best plan, of course, is to dig up the bushes 
badly infected and burn them at once. 
"Where, however, only a few buds are 
swollen very much, it is best to carefully 
examine every branch, and with the aid of 
a knife pick out the big buds and burn them. 
Very Old Currant Bushes. 
Old specimens generally bear a lot of 
I'uit, but the berries are usually very small, 
li is not yet too late to cut out some of the 
old wood, but the work should be done at 
•incs. Then give the bushes a rich top- 
dressing of loam and manure mixed, and by 
G-e end of the year, with the aid of liquid 
•manure in summer, too, the bushes will be 
fr >7 much improved in health, stronger 
1 c” will grow, followed in due course by 
larger berries. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Protect Seedlings. 
Fig. 3 shows a very useful ground pit in 
which a number of tender seedlings may be 
grown and sheltered from the cold east 
Fig. 1 shows how to -plant Gladioli 
4. in. deep and q in. apart in the rows. 
winds. Simply dig out a trench 1 foot 
deep and about 3 feet wide and of sufficient 
length to hold the seedlings which are to be 
planted in it. A shows the prepared com¬ 
post; B, the seedlings; and C, the stakes on 
which mats may be placed at night. This 
is just the kind of trench to suit Brussels 
Sprouts, early Cauliflower and Leek plants. 
From this ground frame the plants may be 
transferred to their permanent quarters. 
F l g- 2 shows Black Currant buds af¬ 
fected with the mite; A, A show the 
swollen buds; B, B, the normal buds; C 
also shows a bud free from the mite; and 
D the enlarged bud affected. 
Peas. 
For June and July supplies of Peas sow 
seeds now of both early and main-crop’ varie¬ 
ties. Do not sow too thickly, allow ample 
space between the rows and well manure the 
soil to give the plants a good start. Also 
be sure to bury the seeds at least 2 inches 
deep. 
Broad Beans. 
Sow now, according to requirements, seve¬ 
C, 
Fig. g shows a very useful ground pit 
for tender seedlings; A, prepared com¬ 
post; B, seedlings; C, stakes to support 
covering mats. 
ral rows of Broad Beans. The Windsor andj 
Longpod varieties should be selected. 
Spinach. 
The young plants are now appearing in 
the rows as. a result of the first sowing of 
seeds. Early Spinach is much appreciated, 
and should be assisted in its growth as much 
as possible. To this objective point draw up 
soil on both sides of the rows, and also thin 
out the seedlings. 
Herbs. 
Prepare the soil on a south border in readi¬ 
ness for seeds of different kinds of herbs 
which must be sown in April. 
F OX GLOVE. 
The Amateur’s Greenhouse. 
Wind and Sun. 
March, if normal, is a month of wind, 
but, alas ! more often than not a very cold 
wind, and great care must, therefore, be 
taken when ventilating the greenhouse dur¬ 
ing this month, for although the sun be 
shining brightly and casting a genial 
warmth through the glass, it is accompanied 
by an icy breeze the reverse of beneficial. It 
is better, then, to let the thermometer run 
up to seventy degrees even than to risk a 
sudden check to the plants by throwing open 
the ventilators and admitting an inrush of 
fresh easterly or northerly wind. 
The amount of water given must increase 
with the growth of the various subjects and 
the warmth of the sun, and towards the end 
of the month it will become necessary to 
damp down the floors and staging in order 
to render the atmosphere both moist and 
genial. 
Roses under Glass. 
Many indoor Roses will now be showing 
buds, and liquid manure should be given, 
alternated, of course, with clear water. 
There is- a good deal of choice in the 
matter, and many gardeners have their own 
special decoctions, but it is greatly a ques¬ 
tion of convenience, and the amateur will do 
well with a liquid solution of Clay’s Fer¬ 
tilizer, or the same purpose will be answered 
if a small quantity is stirred into the top 
soil previous to watering. 
Of course, no one would think of forcing 
newly-potted Roses; they must be well-estab¬ 
lished beforehand, but any that were potted 
up in the early autumn may be placed in a 
cold frame for a few days, then, after being 
cut back, transferred to a cool greenhouse, 
and by this means some eood flowers may be 
obtained early without detriment to the 
plants. 
Climbers. 
Marechal Niel, Niphetos, or an}’- other 
climbing Roses, should be trained as they 
make growth ; but many amateurs make the 
mistake of fastening them up too close to 
the glass, consequently the tender leaves and 
shoots get badly scorched during sunny 
weather. The best way is to tie them up 
somewhat loosely to wires stretched about a 
foot from the glass. This allows of free 
and perfect development and the danger of 
scorching is obviated. 
Dainty Deutzias. 
A succession of these beautiful shrubby 
plants should be kept up as long as possible, 
for few things are so pleasing and, withal, 
easy of culture. The veriest novice can 
scarcely fail to bring them to perfection, 
for no sooner are they introduced into the 
greenhouse than they break out, the flower 
buds becoming visible almost as soon as 
the leaves, and then it is so interesting to 
watch their daily development. If anything, 
the single Deutzia gracilis is better than the 
double variety, and as they progress strong,, 
non-flowering shoots will appear from the 
base of the plants. These should be en- 
