TUB QARDENINO WORLD. 
in pots. Instead of the 'Fuchsia you men¬ 
tion you should substitute F. Riccartoni, 
which would grow taller and prove hardier 
than the one you mention. All of the plants 
may be pruned at any time during the au¬ 
tumn, winter and spring, but as the first 
three are liable to get more or less hurt in 
severe winters a better plan would be to de¬ 
lay the pruning until some time in March 
when all danger of severe frost is over. 
You can then see whether any wood has been 
killed, and you may sometimes be able to 
put a live branch .in the place of a dead 
one at the time of pruning. The plan of 
training is to nail in a sufficient number of 
the stronger or leading stems so as to cover 
the wall when in full growth. Then in 
March all the side shoots may be pruned 
back to one bud or two near the base. After 
the wall has been completely covered there 
will be very little nailing annually as the 
main stems are allowed to remain attached 
to the wall year after year. These side 
shoots after being cut hack will throw out 
others and again furnish the plants, but in 
some cases they may grow too rampantly 
or produce crowding. It is well, therefore, 
to go over them in summer when this takes 
place and tie in such shoots loosely or shor¬ 
ten them back according to convenience. 
FRUIT. 
37 24. Cooking Apples. 
Would you name four varieties of Apple 
trees for cooking. I want to plant them in 
the centre of four squares in the garden. 
(T. Finnie, Yorks.) 
Four excellent cooking Apples that will 
give you a succession are Keswick Codlin, 
Peasgood’s Nonsuch, Stirling Castle and 
Lane’s Prince Albert. If your garden is 
in any way windy you should get the trees 
in the form of bushes or else half standards 
grafted on the English Paradise. When 
trees are planted singly in windy, exposed 
places the fruits are very liable to get 
blown down by the gales during September. 
3 7 25. Shading Cucumbers and Melons. 
Will you please tell me if 'Cucumbers and 
Melons require shading ? I want to start 
some in frames in April. ( Northampton.) 
Both of these require more or less shad¬ 
ing, but the Cucumbers derive most benefit 
from it. If a sheet of thin tiffany is spread 
over the frame, while the sun shines or, at 
least, during the middle part of the day 
when warmest, the Cucumbers will assume a 
deeper green colour than if they were fully 
exposed to sunshine in a dry atmosphere. 
On cloudy days you would, of course, leave 
off the shading because frames depending 
upon the sun for their heat will require to 
be exposed to a fair amount of sunshine dur¬ 
ing the day. You will, of course, require 
to have a bed of fermenting manure beneath 
them as well. Melons are benefited by a 
higher temperature even than Cucumbers. 
They will succeed, however, with much less 
shading than in the case of Cucumbers. In¬ 
deed, in some parts of the country no shad¬ 
ing whatever is,given. It largely depends 
upon the season and the part of the country 
in which you reside. We should advise you, 
therefore, to use quite thin shading and then 
only from 10 or n o’clock in the morning 
till 4 or 5 o’clock in the afternoon. In the 
early part of the season the shading should 
be removed earlier and the house closed 
earlier than would be the case later on. In 
both cases, therefore, you will have to use 
your discretion in order to give just suffi- 
cient to be beneficial and remove it before 
becoming harmful. 
3 7'.’. S. Treatment of Soil for Fruit. 
Our garden only a year or two ago was 
merely a waste of grass, weeds and rubbish 
L: - :. It has now been levelled down, 
trenched and manured. We intend planting 
Roses, Raspberries, Strawberries and some 
flowers. Do you think it advisable to plant 
these things this year? Thistles and Docks 
were very numerous and there may be some 
left, though we did all we could, to get rid 
of them. (F. :M. Bentley, Middlesex.) 
Seeing that your ground was in such a 
weedy condition before trenching, it might 
be well to wait another year before planting 
such subjects as Roses, Raspberries and 
Strawberries, which should not again be 
disturbed while they continue to give satis¬ 
faction. Even if all the running roots of 
those subjects have been removed there are, 
no doubt, many seeds in the ground, and 
you should plant something which will al¬ 
low you to hoe the ground all through the 
season for the purpose of destroying the 
weeds. There is no better thing for the first 
year than Potatos, but if you desire vege¬ 
tables you might grow Cabbages, Brussels 
Sprouts, Savoys, Cauliflowers or anything 
else that would leave a fair amount of the 
ground bare. If the soil is full of seeds 
every hoeing will “bring more of them to the 
surface, and if you make a point of hoeing 
them up before they seed, you will get the 
ground fairly clean and also in a good con¬ 
dition of tilth. 
GARDEN ENEMIES. 
37 27. Fumigating- Sweet Peas. 
Last autumn I sowed some Sweet Peas in 
pots and placed them in frames, but I notice 
some green fly upon them. Can these be 
fumigated in a frame? Plow long shall I 
wait yet before planting them out? (J. C. 
W., Norfolk.) 
You can select a still evening so that the 
smoke will not be quickly blown out of the 
frame. You need only fumigate lightly. 
If you have only a small number of plants 
it would be an easy matter to lift them out 
of the frame one by one and brush the green 
fly off them. The aphides of Peas, are usu¬ 
ally of large size and could not yet be very 
numerous upon the plants. Before planting 
the latter in the open you could wait until 
the weather is fairly fine towards the end 
of April. The Sweet Peas, however, should 
be well ventilated on all favourable occa¬ 
sions to keep the plants sturdy. It is of no 
benefit whatever to get them drawn, weakly 
and tumbling over before you plant them 
out. Select a time when the soil is in a 
good workable condition. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
37 28. Double Tennis Court. 
Will you please give me the dimensions 
for a double tennis court, and should I 
have to put a line down when I mark it 
out the first time? (Amateur, London, E.) 
A double tennis court should be 78 ft. 
long and 36 ft. wide. The net should be 
put across the centre of this, and it would 
also be convenient to have the- poles support¬ 
ing the net planted a few feet outside the 
court altogether. The playing line should 
be marked off at 21 ft. from the net on either 
side. There should also be a line down the 
centre of the ground from one playing line 
to the other. It would be as wall to put the 
line down when marking off the court, 
otherwise we do not see how you are going 
to do it and make the lines, quite straight 
unless you use a long, straight rod, but, 
as a matter of course, the line is the most 
convenient and suitable. 
NAMES OF PLANTS. 
(Northampton) Fatsia japonica, often 
named Aralia Sieboldii, and also Castor Oil 
Plant, although it has no right to the latter 
name. 
March 20, 1909. 
(John M. Lean, Inverness-shire) 1, Coleo- 
nema album; 2, Cytisus praliferus; 3, As- 
plenium viviparum; 4, Aucuba japonica, a 
finely-blotched variety. 
(f. M. W.) 1, Cornus Mas; 2, Chimon- 
•anthus fr.agrans; 3, Jasminum nudiflorum. 
(Grower) 1, Galanthus Elwesii; 2, Eran- 
this hyemalis; 3, Vinca minor; 4, Adonis 
amurensis,; 5, Scilla bifolia; 6, Chionodoxa 
Luciliae. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
James Veitch and Sons, Ltd., Royal Ex¬ 
otic Nursery, Chelsea, London. —Hardy 
Nymphaeas. 
Native Guano Company', Ltd., 29, New 
Bridge Street, Blackfriars, London, E.C.— 
Native Guano 
Harrison and Sons, Seed Growers, Lei¬ 
cester.—Harrison’s Farm Seeds. 
Frantz de Laet, Contich Village-lez- An¬ 
vers, Belgium.—General List. 
I-Iarlan P. Kelsey, Salem, Mass., U.S.A. 
—American Hardy Rhododendrons. 
Wellson and Co., Aire Place Works, 
Leeds.—Wellson’s Plant Food and Welt- 
son’s Lawn Manure. 
Ransomes, -Sims and Jefferies, Ltd., Or¬ 
well Works, Ipswich.—-Ransomes’ Lawn 
Mowers. 
-4~M- 
Deceiving Exhibitors. 
The Mulgrave Agricultural and Horti¬ 
cultural Society are taking a determined 
stand against the practice, which is far 
too common, of persons showing- garden 
and farm produce which is not of their 
own growing. 
Mr. H. Hemsley, F.R.H.S. 
Mr. Henry Heinsley, F.R.H.S., has re¬ 
signed the position of hon. secretary of 
the Crawley and -District Gardeners’ Mu¬ 
tual Improvement Association, in conse¬ 
quence of the great demands on his time 
as proprietor of the newly-formed Sussex 
Seed, Bulb and Nursery Establishment, 
at Crawley. We are pleased to hear that 
Mr. Hemsley’s venture is proving highly 
successful, and that he is steadily extend¬ 
ing the circle of his customers. We would 
draw the attention of our readers to the 
advertisement in another column. 
Carter and Co. at Westminster. 
At the Royal Horticultural Society's 
exhibition at Vincent Square, West¬ 
minster, Messrs. James Carter and Co., 
the King’s Seedsmen, of High Holborn, 
made a very attractive and novel display. 
They showed a lawn grown from their 
well-known seeds with an effective ribbon- 
border filled with scarlet Due van Thol, 
Keizer Kroon, Rose Gris de Lin, Yellow 
Prince and La Reine Tulips; the border 
also contained double Daffodils, Golden 
Spur and Sir Watkin Narcissus, together 
with some fine Lilium lancifoliumf the 
whole being backed with evergreen and 
-flowering shrubs. A sundial in the centre 
of the lawn, with pedestals and pots at 
each end filled with bulbs in full flower, 
was charmingly effective. In the competi¬ 
tive classes the Hyacinths staged by Lord 
Salisbury (Mr. Prime, gardener), Mr. E. 
G. Mocatta (Mr. Stevenson, gardener), 
and Mrs. Denison (Mr. Gentle, gardener) 
were grown from bulbs supplied by ‘ 
Messrs. Carter and Co. The Hyacinths 
and Tulips that are now planted in Hyde 
Park, Regent’s Park, and at the Royal 
Palaces, and which will shortly be in full 
flower, were entirely supplied by Messrs. 
Carter and Co. in the autumn of 1908. 
