212 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
March 27, 1909. 
and having long tails to the fruits. Sow 
the seeds ait once in a box of light sandy 
soil and stand them in a frame with other 
seeds where the frame could be closed at first 
to induce germination. After the seedlings 
have made a rough leaf you can transplant 
them into other boxes till they attain some 
size. They will, no doubt, be rather slow 
in making growth at first, but if the plants 
attain good size before September next you 
can plant them in the open border then. If 
they are still very small they would be safer 
in a cold frame where they would be less 
likely to be eaten by slugs, while in the 
small state. They could be planted out at 
the beginning of April or earlier if they 
show signs of making growth. 
3735. Hardy Flowers from Seeds. 
I have no greenhouse or cold frame, but 
would like to grow-some hardy flowers from 
seeds to bloom this coming summer. The 
border in which I want to grow them is 
30 ft. long and 4 ft. wide. The soil is very 
heavy, but the garden gets sun 'all day. I 
would be glad if you would name some 
things for me. I would also like to plant 
something taller at intervals to break up the 
border, as it were, and take off the flatness. 
I shall be glad of a suggestion. (Outlook, 
Bucks.) 
There are many annuals that can be sown 
at the beginning of April and will flower 
freely with you during the coming summer. 
Very choice annuals are Lavatera trimestris, 
Linum grandifiorum rubrum, double Lark¬ 
spur, annual Chrysanthemums, such as 'C. 
coronarium, single and double, C. carinatum 
bmridgeanum, Shirley Poppies, purple and 
yellow Sweet .Sultan, Scabiosa atropurpurea 
and Convolvulus tricolor. All of those may 
be sown directly in the open border where 
they are to flower. Tall subjects that could 
be planted at intervals amongst the annuals 
are the Roses Dorothy Perkins, Lady Gay 
and Crimson Rambler, as well as Sunflowers 
and clumps of Sweet Peas, The above will 
give you a fair amount of variety, although 
you cannot expect the Roses to be in full 
growth the first season. 
3736. Raising Bedding: Beet. 
Will you please inform me if bedding 
Beet will do sown in boxes to transplant into 
bed-; in May, or which is the best method 
of growing it? (G. Pearson, Derbyshire.) 
Bedding Beet may be raised in that way 
easily enough. Simply subject it to the same 
treatment as half-hardy annuals that are 
reared in frames, transplanted into boxes 
and later on planted out about the end of 
May. Bv that time Beet, if sown thinly in 
boxes, should have made a thick root, so that 
vcu can safely transplant them from the 
boxes to the open border at that time. Se¬ 
lect a moist time or else plant late in the 
afternoon and give them a watering. This 
will prevent the leaves from flagging if it 
should happen to be hot weather at the time. 
3737. Arrangement of Colours. 
1 have a Large number of dwarf and tall 
hardy plants that I would like to arrange 
iii the form of a mixed border if you could 
give me any idea about the arrangement of 
the colours. It would take up too much 
space to name everything I have got, but 
they include such things as Michaelmas 
Daisies, Sedums, hardy Geraniums, Fun- 
kias, Aquilegias, Doronicums, Sunflowers, 
1’vrethrums, Chrysanthemums, Delphiniums, 
etc. (Aquilegia, Middlesex.) 
C< mmence by preparing a list of every¬ 
thing you have got and write down the colour 
or shade' of colour against each. After this 
you can make a fresh list for each colour 
or -hade of colours. This list will be handy 
when .about to bring the different plants to¬ 
gether for planting at certain spots. Each 
5 : • up should be of unequal outline, and as 
seine odours- will contain more plants than 
others the groups will .be of unequal siize. 
The plants likewise will be of unequal 
height, so -that the taller ones may be placed 
at the back and the dwarfer ones in the front 
of the border. The groups need not go 
straight across from back to front, but 
obliquely. Sometimes the flowers of a colour 
will contain more dwarf than tail ones, and 
vice versa, so the groups will vary in width 
at the back or front accordingly. Begin at 
one end of the border by getting all the 
different shades of pink and rose together. 
You can then proceed to get all the plants 
with white flowers together and plant them 
in a group. You can next proceed with the 
different shades of yellow, such as sulphur- 
yellow, light yellow and dark yellow. These 
could merge into orange, orange-scarlet, 
scarlet and crimson, the crimson being .at 
the furthest distance from the orange. Then 
follow on with lavender, mauve, and lilac 
colours. The next group may consist of all 
those flowers of same shade of purple merg¬ 
ing info violet. If you think any or all of 
the groups of colours would be too large, 
you can use only half of the plants of each 
colour, and when yon reach violet you can 
commence again and repeat the same ar¬ 
rangement as far as the colours are con¬ 
cerned, though the size and shape of the 
groups may be different. 
ROSES. 
3738. Time to Prune Roses. 
Will you oblige me by telling me through 
your valuable paper the time to prune the 
. foil owing Rose trees:—Bouquet d’Or, 
Climber, Fisher Holmes, Marie Corelli, 
Clio, Frau Karl Druschki, Xavier Olibo, 
Green Rose, Bengalensis, Merveiille de I.yon, 
Gloire Lyonnaise, Rainbow, Ulrich Brun¬ 
ner, Tliawatha and Goldfinch. I planted 
these Roses the middle of last December. 
The ground was trenched ; the soil is mostly 
clay. I added yellow loam round the Roses 
at planting time. They have three and four 
shoots on each plant about 3 ft. long. Is 
it too late to mulch Roses? (Constant 
Reader, Middlesex.) 
It so happens that all of the varieties you 
have named may be pruned with safety in 
March, so that you may complete the work 
where necessary at once. A large number of 
them are Hybrid Perpetual s and should be 
pruned fairly hard the first season to give 
them a better chance to start well. Bouquet 
d’Or is a Tea Rose, and being a climber it 
should get very little pruning, except dur¬ 
ing the first season. The same applies to 
the climbers Hiawatha and Goldfinch. We 
should cut all of these down to 2 ft. the 
first season. Next year the stems should be 
left at full length or nearly so. In follow¬ 
ing years when the last two require reducing 
in bulk, cut down the old stems right to the 
base and leave as- many r of the young stems 
as you require to fill the allotted space. 
This may be done .immediately after they 
have finished flowering. Then, at pruning 
time in March, you may only have to shorten 
the tips that may be weak or improperly 
ripened. It is too late now to mulch Roses 
if you intended the mulching for protec¬ 
tion, but you can use a thin layer of manure 
at the end of M.ay nr when the weather be¬ 
gins to get very warm. It will then help to 
preserve the moisture in the soil. 
TREES AND SHRUBS . 
3 73 9. Name of Shrub and Treatment. 
Kindly name the enclosed twig and give 
cultural treatment through your paper. 
(XL-Ai.l. Fifeshire.) 
The twig you sent us was Sophcra tetrop- 
tera microphylla, sometimes named Fd- 
wardsia microphylla. It is the New Zealand 
Laburnum. In the southern counties of 
England and more or less also round the 
west coast, it is baidy if planted against a 
wall and trained upon it. Indeed, in some 
of the more favoured districts, such as Corn¬ 
wall, it may be grown as a small tree with¬ 
out the protection of a wall. Judging from 
the leaves you sent us you are growing the 
plant in a greenhouse and possibly that may 
be necessary in your case, though you could, 
of course, grow it out of doors during sum¬ 
mer, as is done with -Catnellias in pots and 
tubs, and take it indoors at the end of Sep¬ 
tember. It will flower in spring when large 
enough and when it has nearly finished its 
growth under glass it can again be put out¬ 
side. You can use a compost consisting of 
fibrous loam with about one-third of fibrous 
peat and plenty of sand to make it open. 
Indeed, you can treat it much in the same 
way as Camellias or Acacias in pots. If 
you have any plants to spare you could plant 
one against a sunny wall with a southern 
aspect by way of trying its hardiness in 
your district. It should be planted in 
sprang so that it would be well established 
before winter. 
3 74 0. Flowering Shrubs for Sea Coast. 
Would you be good enough to name a 
number of flowering shrubs that would suc¬ 
ceed in a garden near the sea and very much 
exposed to wind at various times, but especi¬ 
ally in the spring. About a dozen would 
be ample for a start. (S. M., Essex.) 
Handsome flowering shrubs that should 
succeed with you, iif you can give them any 
shelter whatever, are Tamaxix gallica, Ber- 
beris stenophylla, Olearia Haastii, Skimmia 
japonica (valued chiefly for the sake of its 
berries), Veronica Travers-ii, V. buxifolia, 
Cistus Jaurifolius, Viburnum Tinus, Cytisus 
albus, C. scoparius andreanus, Leycesteria 
formoea and Hippophae rhamnoides. The 
two last named lose their leaves in winter 
and the previous two lose T".'r leaves though 
the stems .are green. The resit are evergreen, 
lor the. sake of shelter you should plant the 
Tam.arix next the sea breeze. If you had 
room, however, it would have been an advan¬ 
tage to plant Beech trees or a Beech hedge, 
Scotch Pine and Austrian Pine to break the 
force of the wind. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
■3 7 41. First and Second Crown Buds. 
\\ ill you kindly inform me through vour 
valuable paper what you term the first crown 
bud and the second crown bud of Chrysan¬ 
themums? Do you pinch them out in March 
and take the next shoot for the first bud as 
it is termed? The second crown bud, I take 
it, is to stop the plant in March and then 
pinch it out again about July or August. 
(Constant Reader of the “G.W.,” Hants.) 
There is a great deal of variety amongst 
Chrysanthemums and it is essential that you 
should be familiar with the behaviour of a 
number of the varieties in order to make 
sure of getting them to flower at the given 
time. Some varieties when propagated in 
December or January naturally produce a 
bud in March or early in April. This is 
termed the break bud and is removed. The 
plants then grow on with two stems and 
each produces a bud some time in June. 
This is called the first crown bud. That 
would, of course, be too early and it is re¬ 
moved with the finger and thumb, so that 
two or three shoots are then allowed to gro\y, 
and they end in a bud each, which should 
bp the second crown bud. This should make 
its appearance about the third or fourth week 
of August, and, if so, the flowers would be 
right for the Chrysanthemum shows about the 
beginning of November. Some varieties i 
do not produce the break bud in March and 
are stopped then with the object of getting ' 
