March 27, 1909. 
214 THE GARDENING WORLD. 
them to produce their bud at the proper 
time. Some of these will give the best 
flowers on the first crown and others on the 
second crown. In the case of Viviand iMorel, 
Mme. G. Bruant, M. 'Chenon de Leche and 
others of that class, they give the best colour 
on the second crown bud, and in that case 
the first crown bud should be removed. In 
the case of those varieties that do best on 
the second crown, the break bud should make 
its appearance from the middle of March 
to the middle of April, and if this does not 
make its appearance the stem should be 
stopped by taking off just about in. The 
plants will go on growing again, giving the 
first crown bud during the early part of 
June. By removing that you are almost sure 
to get the second crown bud late in August, 
and, if so, the flowers will be right for No¬ 
vember. There are some other varieties, 
however, such as Mutual Friend, Australie, 
Mrs. White Popham, etc., which, if inserted 
before the middle of January, may be taken 
on the first crown without even stopping 
them. You must also bear in mind that the 
exact time of stopping, where that is neces¬ 
sary, varies in different parts of the coun¬ 
try, so that you .should begin by making 
a list of varieties that you stop at any given 
time for results, and when getting new 
varieties ask your nurseryman to tell you 
the best bud on which they should be taken. 
That will be some guide as to the treatment 
to give them. “Chrysanthemums : A Manual 
for Exhibitors and Growers,” would help 
you in general terms about stopping, but it 
will still be necessary to keep a list as to 
the varieties which have been dealt with in 
a certain way. The book may be obtained 
from this office post free for 2s. 2d. 
VEGETABLES. 
3742. Vegetables in Sandy Soil. 
At one end of the garden I want to grow 
vegetables, such as Peas, Cauliflowers, 
Onions and Carrots. Do you think these 
could be grown in this sandy soil? (Be¬ 
ginner, Surrey.) 
No doubt, almost every kind of vegetable 
could be grown in your soil by giving it 
certain treatment. It would not be a profit¬ 
able system of cultivation on a large scale 
for commercial purposes, but in a garden for 
private use every gardener has to make some 
improvement or other in order that he 
may grow every or any vegetable that may 
be wanted in the house. For your special 
use, you should, therefore, make an en¬ 
deavour to improve your soil with that ob¬ 
ject in view. For instance, Peas, Cauli¬ 
flowers and Cabbages can be grown if you 
trench the soil and use plenty of manure 
both in the top and bottom spit. In the case 
of Peas you could even take out special 
trenches and mix in a large quantity of 
manure with the soil. Do not quite fill the 
trench, but after sowing is completed leave- 
a slight hollow so that all the rain will run 
into the trenches during summer. Onions 
should do well under the same treatment. 
Carrots and Parsnips may be sown to fol¬ 
low any of the above crops that have had 
the ground well manured. That is for the 
purpose of avoiding the necessity of using 
fresh manure for the root crops. Dwarf 
Beans and Scarlet Runners should be useful 
crops in such a garden, as they like more 
warmth and are always benefited by manure 
in the soil. Such a soil could also be im¬ 
proved by introducing some good heavy loam 
from time to time even if inclined to clay. 
By spreading this on the top after digging 
or trenching, it may be left on the surface 
all the winter and frost will crumble it 
down, mixing it with the sandy soil. 
3 7 43. Growing Chicory. 
The soil here is gravel overlying chalk. 
Do you think I could grow Chicory, Salsafy 
and Scorzonera, as I would like to force 
the Chicory roots in winter and they should 
be of good size. The young leaves are used 
for making salads. An early reply would 
oblige. (Outlook, Bucks.) 
The soil you mention should prove highly 
suitable for these things you mention, more 
especially the Chicory. You can always 
improve the ground even for that crop by 
trenching and manuring. It does not sig¬ 
nify about the shape of the roots of Chicory, 
so that you need hot hesitate to employ 
plenty of manure. In the case of Salsafy 
and Scorzonera, which are grown for the 
sake of the roots, you should specially pre¬ 
pare a certain piece of ground by sifting 
out the stones, if possible. Any manure that 
you apply should be put well down in the 
bottom of the trench so as to prevent the 
rcots from forking. Probably you do not 
want a large area under these two latter 
crops, so that trenching and sifting the soil 
would make it excellent for them by observ¬ 
ing the other treatment above mentioned. 
MISCELLANEOUS. 
3744. Gas Lime and Cauliflower. 
I have heard it said that gas lime is good 
for club-root. Last year a lot of my Autumn 
Giant Cauliflower clubbed badly, and I 
would like to prevent it if possible. This 
year I am going to trench the ground, and 
if the present is a good time to apply the 
gas lime I want to do it when trenching. 
(H. Elsom, Middlesex.) 
It is rather late now to. use gas lime if 
you want to plant the Cauliflower early. 
No gas lime should be applied to land that 
is going to be planted or sown within the 
next six or eight weeks. In any case you 
should not plant Cauliflower on the same 
ground as you did last year, nor should you 
plant where Cabbages, Brussels Sprouts, or 
any other of the Cabbage tribe have been for 
the last two or three j'ears, if you can avoid 
it. Of course, we understand that ground 
is scarce in many gardens and you cannot 
always avoid planting similar crops on the 
same ground. If you must plant Cauliflower 
on the same land again you could give a 
good dressing of quicklime, which will not 
hurt the Cauliflower plants. Keeping the 
ground clean is a matter of great importance, 
and all plants that get clubbed should be 
carefully dug up and burned or else buried 
so deeply that the spores could not possibly 
get to the surface again. Even then the use 
of gas lime or ordinary lime would be of 
assistance in killing what spores may still 
be in the soil. 
3745. Water Lying on Path. 
There is a dip in a part of our garden 
through which a path runs, and every time it 
rains the water collects there and makes the 
path impassable till it sinks away in the 
course of three or four days. As there is 
no outlet to it I cannot drain it nor run 
the water off it. Could you suggest any 
means by which I could get rid of this 
water? (R. Davidson, Cumberland.) 
One plan would be to make a well of fair 
size in some convenient position out of sight, 
if possible, where you could dip out the 
water occasionally and dispose of it some¬ 
where handy where it could run away or 
perhaps sink into the ground. An even bet¬ 
ter plan, if you like to go to the trouble or 
expense, would be to dig a well of eight or 
ten feet in depth or well into some stratum 
of gravel if there is. one. The sides of this 
well could be lined with bricks without mor¬ 
tar, in the lower portion at all events, and 
as the building goes on it could be gradually 
narrowed -until it becomes so narrowed that 
you can cover the top with a small grating 
so that the water could run directly through 
into the well. The well being of some size, 
the water would then sink away in the soil 
and occasion no further trouble. As yq 
say, it sinks in the course of three or for 
days it is probable that you will find 
stratum of sand or gravel, and if so it wouF 
be unnecessary to go very deeply into tb 
unless an unusual amount of water accunu 
lates in that hollow through which the pat 
runs. 
3 746. Making a Snowplough. 
For some time past the heavy falls ci 
snow have caused me a good deal of tim 
and labour to clear it away from the path 
round the house and garden, and I want t 
make a snowplough if you could give m 
instructions how to make a simple structur 
that would serve the purpose. I understan 
it is made of wood or mostly so. I will loo 
in your valuable paper for an answer. (1< 
Davidson, Cumberland.) 
A snowplough of small size would answe 
your purpose and really requires only tw 
sides with a handle for guiding it. Ge 
two strong planks about 3 ft. to 3^ ft. Ion 
and 9 in. to 12 in. deep. The front en 
should be wedge-shaped, so as to go int- 
the snow, so that you will have to cut awa 
the corners of the planks there in such 
way that the two together will form a shar 
or narrow point. The other end of eac 
plank should spread out until they are abov 
3 ft. or 3^ ft. apart. That, then, will b. 
the width of path which the plough woul 
clear, but you must be guided according t 
the width of the paths- you have to cleat 
On the other hand, even if you have plent 
of room on the paths, you need not make tc 
wide a plough or it will be heavy to dra 
about. A piece of wood or plank shoul 
pass from one plank to the other at the wid 
end so as to brace them together. You not 
want a handle which should fit into the angl 
between the two planks at the front, and i 
order to give it stability a piece of woo* 
could be nailed from one plank to the othe 
upon which the handle would rest when i 
a position to be high enough for a man whe 
walking behind it and holding the handlt 
It can easily be made to fit two people, a 
a rope could be fastened to the front en 
of the plough and one man could pull b 
means of the rope, while the other coul 
nush the handle and serve also to guid 
the plough when being pulled through th 
snow. It is convenient and does the wor 
quickly provided the snow is not too deep 
If you do the work in the morning befor 
any treading upon the snow has taken plac 
the. work will be light and easy. 
NAMES OF PLANTS. 
(J. M.) Cypripedium villosum. 
(R. W.) 1^ Cupressus pisifera plumosa; : 
Thuya plicata; 3, Cupressus lawsoniana 
4. Pernettya mucronata. 
(A. E. M.) 1, Anemone coronaria Rose d 
Nice; 2, Acacia dealbata; 3, Galanthus n; 
valis. 
(B. N. Warden) 1, Selaginella kraussiana 
2, Pteris tremula; 3, Lygodium scandem 
4, Lomari.a gibba ; ■ s, Pteris cretica crista'a. 
(XI,-All) 1, Sophora tetraptera mien 
ph3d.la (often named Edwardsia mien 
phylla) ; 2, The seeds are Anemone Pulst 
tilla or some other of the same group. 
(F. Martin) 1, Chlorophytum elatum vari< : 
gatum; 2, Myrtus communis; 3, Pelarg<| 
nium denticulatum. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED 
Amos Perry, Hardy Plant Farm, Er 
field, Middlesex.—Perry’s Supplemental! 
List of Perennials; Perry’s Special Offer c 
Delphinium Seed; Perry’s First Catalog! 
of Hardy Ferns. 
Hugh Low and Co., Bush Hill Park, Mid¬ 
dlesex.—Carnations. 
