April io, 1909. 
THE a A EDEN I NO WORLD. 
235 
;ose growers living near towns, and who 
. not possess large estates where the 
ukes are grown. After staking, earth up 
.. either side of the row. The more' fre- 
lently the Peas are gathered the longer 
11 the plants continue to bear. If pods 
t old they will take more of their share 
nourishment, and thus rob other pods 
their share on the same plant. Mildew 
generally caused by the plants not get¬ 
ter sufficient nourishment, either from 
ck of food or dryness. Watering 
avily, or applying liquid manure, soot 
id nitrate oi soda, at the rate of 1 lb. per 
1 gallons of water, at intervals, will often 
ercome the trouble. 
>wing- 
To have green Peas early in the season 
rightly considered a great delicacy, so 
behoves every gardener to exert every 
eans in his power to supply some as 
trly as possible. This is only done by 
lecting the earliest varieties, and to 
;ep up a supply during the season it is 
jcessary that successive sowings should 
; made', beginning with the earliest, fol- 
•wing with the mid-season, and finishing 
0 with the late varieties. With every 
litable appliance, the Pea season may 
ctend from May to October, the best 
.onths for Peas being June and July, 
ugust is the month when Peas, if not 
rown successfully, fall away and often 
»t infested with garden pests. Late varie- 
es . are dependent generally on the 
eather as to being a success or not. A 
)wing should be made the first week in 
anuary. in 3 in. pots, placing 10 seeds 
1 a pot and germinating in a cold frame - 
hey soon germinate, and should be 
iven air on all favourable occasions, 
lanting them out in March in a sheltered 
osition. 
The best varieties for this purpose are 
helsea Gem and Earliest of All. The 
scond week in January is the best time to 
ow outside, when it is. best to make a 
awing of about four different varieties, 
ae best varieties being American W<on¬ 
er, Chelsea Gem, May Queen and Wil¬ 
iam the First. Another solving should be 
lade in February, when Thomas Laxton, 
IcLean’s Little Gem, Gradus and Ex- 
man should be sown. The last week m 
'ebruarv sow Gradus, Champion of Eng- 
and, Daisy and Exonian. The second 
reek in March sow Buttercup, Champion 
f England, Duke of Albany and iill- 
asket. The last week in March-sow 
itratagem, Ne Plus Ultra, Telegraph and 
Telephone. .. 
The latest crops can be sown from April 
0 May, the best varieties being Autocrat 
The Gladstone, - Walker’s Perpetual 
learer, and Yorkshire Hero. 
Stephen. 
-- 
The white and red varieties of Daphne 
dezereum flowered at Christmas. 1Q07. 
iut the same plants delayed their next 
lowering till the end of March. 1909. 
American Gooseberry Mildew. 
Mr. Ernest Garnsey, of the Board of 
Agriculture and Fisheries, says that in 
England eighteen counties are now 
iffected by the American Gooseberry di¬ 
ease and over 2,400 gardens. In Russia 
he disease is killing the bush outright, 
vnd in Sweden it has done so much dam- 
ige that the Government have given up 
ill hope of suppressing it. 
Propagating . . . 
= flbutiloQS. = 
Abutilons may be grown as bushy 
plants or tall standards and many varie¬ 
ties are also suitable for training as 
climbers to walls and roofs, the attractive 
foliage and pretty bell-shaped drooping 
flowers, which are beautifully veined and 
marked and very freely produced during 
many months of the year, making the 
plants most desirable subjects for green¬ 
house and conservatory decoration. Dur¬ 
ing the summer the plants can be success¬ 
fully flowered out of doors if desired, 
varieties having variegated foliage being 
excellent for bedding purposes. 
Abutilons are gross feeding, hungry 
plants requiring plenty of nourishment 
and abundance of water, and on this 
account perfect drainage must be pro¬ 
vided, one of the most common causes 
of the foliage becoming sickly in appear¬ 
ance and the flower buds drooping being 
sad, sour soil, resulting from defective 
drainage. The plants need treating in a 
very similar manner to Fuchsias, com¬ 
post consisting of two parts good turfy 
loam, one part leaf soil, one sixth of a 
part sand and a little soot, suiting them 
admirably. When the plants are in full 
growth and about to flower they should 
be fed with liquid manure once or twice 
a week, an occasional top dressing of old 
hotbed manure also being beneficial. 
A temperature of sixty degrees is quite 
sufficient for the plants in question, in 
fact, during the winter many plants will 
flower in a heat of fifty degrees and in 
cases where winter flowering is not de¬ 
sired it is advisable to house them in a 
temperature not exceeding forty-five de¬ 
grees and give only a small quantity of 
water. 
Abutilons may be raised and propa¬ 
gated from seed and cuttings, the former 
being best sown in March, whilst the 
latter strike readily during early spring. 
If the old plants are cut down in Feb¬ 
ruary in the manner shown in Fig. 1, a 
number of vigorous shoots suitable for 
propagating purposes will be pushed out 
similar to Fig. 2. The cuttings should be 
some four or five inches in length, pre¬ 
pared either with a heel of old wood 
attached at the base or in the ordinary 
way as shown in Fig. 3. Light sandy 
compost must be used and several cut¬ 
tings. may be inserted round the edge of 
a large pot, the surface of the soil first 
being covered with sand so that a little 
is carried to the bottom of each hole for 
the cutting to rest on, as shown in Fig. 4. 
The pots should be covered with bell- 
glasses or a hand-light in a temperature 
of not less than sixty-five degrees. 
Another method of propagating Abu¬ 
tilons is by stem cuttings, a length of 
stem being cut into sections as indicated 
by the cross lines in Fig. 5, each piece, 
of course, containing a bud at its upper 
end. The cuttings should be inserted in 
a pan of sandy compost in the manner 
shown in Fig. *6, be covered with a sheet 
of glass and treated as ordinary cuttings. 
ORTUS. 
