2JO 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
April 24, 1909. 
minent positions and get some new ones, if 
necessary, to fill up the rest of the ground. 
The bulbs would, of course, be better if left 
to ripen in their present position. 
3808. Treatment of Agapanthus. 
Some time ago I wrote you concerning an 
Agapanthus which I had been growing in a 
window. I have now put it in a 10 in. pot 
and am going to stand it outside by the door, 
according to instructions, in the hope of get¬ 
ting it to flower. The situation is sunny. 
When could I put it outside? It is com¬ 
mencing to grow. How much water should 
I give it? (T. Richards, Kent.) 
You should wait till the end of May before 
putting it outside, and that will give it time 
to make a good start into growth. Your 
better plan would be to stand it in a situa¬ 
tion where it will be shaded from the direct 
sun for about a week. This will harden the 
foliage, after which it will stand in the full 
sun. Give it a moderate amount of water 
until there are plenty of good leaves upon it, 
and when thus growing freely it may also be 
watered freely. It will take more water 
after it has been stood outside, but especially 
if the weather is dry and warm. 
HEDGES. 
3809. Honeysuckle Near a Box Hedge. 
I have a good Box hedge 5 ft. high, 
planted five years ago, and within 2 ft. of 
it a row of Honeysuckle on poles. Will the 
Honeysuckle in any way spoil the Box 
hedge? (W. Wood, Lines.) 
The Honeysuckle at 2 ft. from the hedge 
will not harm it, but you must not allow the 
plants to encroach upon the hedge so much 
as to lie upon it. Being deciduous, it would 
allow the Box to partly recover in winter, 
and although the Box stands a fair amount 
of shade it will grow more bushy and be 
more robust, provided always it is fully ex¬ 
posed to sun and air. Your best plan, 
therefore, will be to make a practice of going 
over the Honeysuckles when in full growth 
and tying in any rampant shoots that may 
be encroaching upon the Box hedge. Then 
in winter the Honeysuckles may be trimmed, 
retaining the best of the young wood and 
tying it well into the poles. If the Honey¬ 
suckles had been further from the hedge you 
could have allowed them more freedom to 
ramble and to get bigger, but within limits 
they will flower quite well if trimmed an¬ 
nually, but retaining the best of the young 
shoots. 
ROSES. 
3 810. Cutting Away Suckers of Climb¬ 
ing Roses. 
Some of my climbing Roses, such as 
Dorothy Perkins and Hiawatha, are pushing 
out strong suckers from the base. Should 
these be cut away, and if so, must I cut them 
close to the stock? I would have to dig away 
the soil to get at them properly. Please give 
me a reply in your next issue. (R. Mitchell, 
Dumbartonshire.) 
It is the habit of these climbing Roses to 
throw up suckers from the base, and in the 
case of the Wichuraiana type they commence 
to shoot up rather early. Provided you have 
plenty of room to accommodate them, all of 
these suckers should be retained, as you will 
get the best flowers and the largest quantity 
from them next year. There is just a possi¬ 
bility that the suckers or some of them might 
come from the stock, but when the Rose is 
vigorous and pushing out plenty of suckers 
of its own there is usually little or no trouble 
with suckers from the stock. After the leaves 
are fully developed you can then see whether 
they belong to the Rose or to the stock. 
Usually they are lighter in colour, even in 
the early stages, than the leaves of the stock, 
and you can detect a difference then, but after 
they are fully expanded there is no difficulty. 
The leaves of these two varieties have small, 
glossy leaflets 
TREES AND SHRUBS . 
3811. Shrubs Losing Their Leaves. 
- I have one variegated broad-leaved Euony- 
mus, one Bay tree, one Golden Privet, and 
some Laurustinus in tubs, but all of them 
have lost a great many leaves, and some of 
the shoots seem to be dead. What is the cause 
of this, and what must I do to them ? I do 
not want to lose them if I can help it. 
(Euonymus, Middlesex.) 
Give the plants the necessary pruning, as 
in the case of Golden Privet and Euonymus, 
and if you cannot determine which shoots 
are really dead wait till they commence 
growing. It will then be self-evident what 
you may cut away. Possibly, however, not 
much damage is done beyond the destruction 
of the leaves, and if so the plants will pre¬ 
sently recover themselves as if nothing had 
happened. The leaves of all of them are just 
a little tender, and in severe winters get in¬ 
jured or they fall entirely. 
3 812. Propagating Lavender. 
I have two large Lavender bushes that I 
would like to increase, but hitherto I have 
not been successful by means of cuttings. 
What is the best time for taking these? 
Could I raise it from seeds, or is there any 
other way of getting young plants? (S. 
Freeman, Suffolk.) 
Lavender may be propagated by means of 
cuttings at two distinct seasons of the year. 
During summer when the young shoots are 
fairly firm you can take cuttings, insert them 
in pots of sandv soil, and place them under 
a handlight or in a frame, kept close until 
they are rooted. Then in the autumn you can 
take cuttings of ripe wood and insert them 
in the same way and keep them in a cold 
frame for the winter. As the temperature 
rises in spring they should soon get well 
rooted. You can also get plants by means of 
layers. If you can readily bend down some 
of the shoots to the ground place some sand 
and leaf-mould there, peg down the shoots, 
and cover them with the same soil, leaving 
only the leafy tips exposed. These will make 
growth and produce roots during the sum¬ 
mer months. You can sever them from the 
parents in the autumn or in spring. 
3 813. Plants for Shelter. 
Our garden lies rather high and is open 
to every strong gale that blows. I would, 
therefore, be much obliged if you would give 
me the names of anything I could plant 
round the windy side for the sake of shelter 
As I only grow flowers sheltering plants need 
not be high. I do not want trees that in time 
would shut out the view from the windows. 
(E: S. Jones, North Wales.) 
You can plant two or three lines of Salix 
smithiana round the outside of your garden, 
or you may even put a line of S. Capreaout 
side with the others inside. Allow 18 in, 
from plant to plant and 2 ft. between the 
lines. In the springtime you can prune these 
back close to the ground line if you wish to 
make them more bushy. This may be done 
the first or second year after planting, when 
you could allow them to grow freely until 
they get as high as you desire them to be. 
You can then stop them at any desired height 
or prune them to the height you desire some 
time in March. 
3814. Trimining Evergreen Shrubs. 
Is it safe to trim Holly, Yew, Box, and 
common Portugal Laurels now, or should 
they wait until May? (W. Wood. Lines.) 
You will be quite safe to trim all of these 
things now, as there will be no danger of 
frost hurting them. It should nofi however, 
be delayed, because all these things will be 
soon commencing to make fresh growth,- and 
to delay the pruning would be to delay the 
production of young growth. In the case 
of hedges it would not so much matter, but 
if they are isolated shrubs or trees the ne¬ 
cessary trimming should be given in good 
time to give them the advantage of all the 
length of our season. 
3815. Name of Shrub and Culture. 
Kindly let me know the name of the en¬ 
closed plant and if the present is a good 
time for planting or transplanting the shrub. 
Would it grow well under a tree? (M. E. P., 
Lancs.) 
The shrub you sent us was Skimmia ja- 
ponica. You could safely enough transplant 
it at the present time if you take care to lift 
■the roots with as little injury as possible or 
lift a ball of soil with them. In any case 
you should half fill” in the hole after you 
have planted it and then give it a good soak¬ 
ing of water. Leave this till the water soaks 
away, and then fill up the hole with the re¬ 
mainder of the soil. If the weather keeps 
dry you may jyringe the bush once a day 
until it has fairly commenced growing, after 
which it will be quite safe. It stands a fair 
amount of shade, although it grows well in 
full sun. Do not make the mistake of plant¬ 
ing it under an evergreen tree if the branches 
come pretty low down, otherwise the leaves 
will be unduly shaded. If the leaves fall off 
the trees in winter it should grow nicely un¬ 
der them, but you should see that they do 
not keep the ground -too dry for the Skim¬ 
mia. If so, an occasional watering would be 
beneficial during the first summer, after 
planting at least. Your second plant was 
Skimmia japonica gragrantissima. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
3 816. Indoor or Outdoor Chrysanthe¬ 
mums. 
Would you please tell me if the following 
Chrysanthemums are indoor or outdoor 
ones :—Lady Sanders, Miss Rose, Lizzie 
Manning, Emily Wells, Mrs. C. R. Warren, 
Ladysmith, Scarlet Gem, and Ryecroft 
Glory. I should be glad if you would tell 
me how often I should pinch them, and any 
hint on their culture would be acceptable. 
(Northampton.) 
Miss Rose, Emily Wells, Ladysmith, Scar¬ 
let Gem, and Ryecroft Glory are early- 
flowering varieties which may be bloomed in 
the open. Miss Rose and Ladysmith are, of 
course, single varieties. We are uncertain 
about Lizzie Manning and Mrs. C. R. War¬ 
ren, as they have probably dropped out of 
the recent lists. Lady Sanders is a 
Japanese variety, and had better be grown in 
pots. Any of them could be grown in pots 
if you desire to grow them in that way for 
decorative purposes, but they will take a deal 
more attention than if planted outside. Your 
best plan would be to plant all of them wiith 
the exception of Lady Sanders out of doors 
early in May. Top them once or twice after 
that and then let them grow as they please. 
As the stems lengthen put stakes to them to 
guard against breakage by the wind. A 
number of the varieties, but particularly 
Miss Rose, will branch freely enough with¬ 
out being stopped in any wa}c As a rule 
they branch more freely out of doors than 
when in pots. If you decide to grow any of 
them in pots you can shift them now if that 
is necessary, but you may flower fair-sized 
plants in 6 in. or 7 in. pots. After you get 
them in pots you can pinch them about twice 
in order to get eight to ten shoots which 
should be sufficient for 6 in. or 7 in. pots. 
In no case should you continue stopping them 
after midsummer, otherwise you will not 
only delay their flowering, but the shoots 
produced then will be more slender than they 
ought to be. Lady Sanders being a Japanese 
variety, may be grown with three or four 
blooms, as for exhibition, and in that case 
it should only be stopped once to get three 
shoots. If you desire it merely for decora¬ 
tive purposes then it may be pinched like 
the others. If you intend growing any of 
