ROSES 
The two unusually severe winters of 1933-34 and 1934-35 have proved 
beyond a doubt that Roses of all kinds can be successfully wintered any¬ 
where in the United States with some inexpensive and easy protection. 
After the first good heavy frost, bundle the branches together, cut them 
back to about 18 to 20 inches, mound earth around the plants up to 6 to 8 
inches, or higher if practical, spread manure in the hollows between plants. 
Later on, when the ground is frozen, add a covering of leaves, straw, salt 
hay, or cornstalks to keep the ground frozen and as a protection against sun 
and wind. In the spring, remove covering a little at a time, first straw 
or leaves, then the coarse part of the manure, and finally level the soil 
when danger of hard spring frosts is past. 
Hardy Climbers seldom 
need winter protection in 
most sections of the United 
States. However, where 
temperatures of 10° to 20° 
below zero are a common 
occurrence, Climbers winter 
well if taken down from 
their support and laid flat 
on the ground where they 
can be covered with earth 
or heavy straw. 
Other Cultural Hints 
Pruning is not mandatory (except for new plantings) but is advisable. It is neces¬ 
sary if quality blooms are desired; the more severe the pruning, the better the blooms 
will be. 
Hybrid Teas are pruned in the spring when general vegetation starts. Remove all 
dead wood and weak branches, and for best results shorten the remaining canes to 
about one-third of the previous year’s growth—thus, a plant 24 inches high in the 
autumn will be 8 inches after pruning the following spring. 
Fertilizer. A mixed or “complete” fertilizer as sold under various trade-marks and 
equivalent to 1 part nitrogen, 2 or 3 parts phosphoric acid, and 1 or 2 parts of potash 
is preferable to any single one of these products. Apply very lightly (a teaspoon per 
plant) but often, and water liberally after each application. Bonemeal is useless 
for Roses. 
Foliage Trouble. Newer Roses are not as subject to diseases as older varieties; they 
are much more resistant and many are almost immune. However, atmospheric con¬ 
ditions are more favorable some years than others, and an occasional dusting or spray¬ 
ing with accepted formulas would act as a preventive. 
For more detailed information on all phases of the Rose, read THE ROSE MANUAL 
by Dr. J. H. Nicolas (Doubleday, Doran & Company, Garden City, New York. $2.50). 
It is considered by authorities as the “Rose Grower’s Bible.” 
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