Jackson’s Selected Roses 
O UR own-root Roses are grown in pots in cool, clean, well-ventilated greenhouses, 
and may be set out in the garden any time except in severe winter months. For 
nearly 50 yea rs we have made a specialty of growing own-root Roses, noted for 
their sturdy, splendid growth. They make amazingly rapid growth when transplanted 
into the open ground and grow and bloom 100 per cent. 
Our field-grown Roses are No. 1 grade, 2-year-old, vigorous stock from the open 
ground, budded on Rosa multiflora japonica understock, except possibly some of the 
patented Roses, which may be on other understock. The plants are dormant and are 
shipped with the roots bare. All our Roses are guaranteed to please you. 
Roses will grow in any ordinary fertile ground but they are particularly fond of a 
heavy clay soil, liberally enriched, well drained, and cultivated. The ground should be 
well spaded and pulverized to the depth of 18 inches or more, and enriched by replacing 
one-third its bulk with well-rotted cow-manure. This well-rotted manure, with heavy 
clay soil, is one of the secrets of fine Roses. It must be thoroughly mixed through the 
soil from the bottom of the bed up, and then the bed lightly packed, unless it be prepared 
long enough in advance of planting for rains or watering to settle it. When the plants 
are set out, a trowelful of bonemeal may be worked in the surface of the ground around 
each Rose. If Roses are not planted in beds, the hole for each Rose should be prepared 
2 feet deep by 3 feet in diameter. Do not plant them in small post-holes and expect 
decent growth. 
CULTIVATION AND CARE OF ROSES 
Planting. When the ground is well prepared, 
as explained above, set the plant slightly deeper 
than the old soil-line indicates it was previously 
planted. Cover with fine earth, taking care to 
settle and draw it closely around the roots and 
main stem, and pack firmly. It is important 
that the earth be tightly pressed on roots. After 
planting, water sufficiently to settle the soil, 
and if hot or windy, shade own-root Roses for 
a few days. If, in delayed transportation, the 
soil around own-root Roses has become hard 
and caked, it should be broken and loosened 
gently, so as not to break the fibrous roots. Keep 
Rose roots covered at all times, never exposing 
them to air or sun. 
Cultivation. Roses need continuous culti¬ 
vation during all but the winter months. The 
ground should not be allowed to bake or become 
hard. It should be stirred frequently, but never 
deeper than 2 inches. A 3-inch mulch of tobacco 
stems, in the spring or early summer, is bene¬ 
ficial. It aids in keeping the earth cool and dis¬ 
courages aphis. 
Watering. Water Roses once a week during 
the growing season if the weather is dry. This 
means a thorough soaking, not a sprinkling. It 
is best accomplished by letting a slow stream 
from the hose run on the bed, moving the hose 
from time to time until the whole bed is thor¬ 
oughly soaked. 
Feeding. Each spring more well-rotted 
manure should be thrown on the bed and lightly 
dug in. A trowelful of bonemeal and one of 
sheep manure may also be worked around each 
plant three or four times during the growing 
season. Or about a quart of liquid cow-manure, 
diluted to the color of strong tea, may be applied 
twice each month until autumn. This feeding 
should be greatly reduced for one-year Roses 
during their first season. 
Pruning. The proper time to prune the 
Everblooming class is early in the spring before 
growth commences; all winter-killed and weak 
or exhausted wood should be removed, as they 
flower in early summer on new shoots from the 
remaining old wood. The best flowers come 
from the lowest 6 inches of the bush. 
Hybrid Perpetuals and Hardy Climbers 
should be pruned vigorously immediately after 
they have finished blooming in early summer. 
The new growth, which then starts from the 
old wood, produces the blooming wood for the 
next year. Teas and Hybrid Teas may be 
planted 12 to 18 inches apart; Perpetuals 2 to 
3 feet; and Climbers 4 to 6 feet. 
Winter Protection. This is not necessary in 
the far South, but in climates where the tempera¬ 
ture reaches and remains below freezing for long 
periods, Roses should be protected by hilling 
soil 7 to 8 inches high up around each plant late 
in the fall. After the ground has frozen, cover 
the entire bed with straw or leaves held in place 
by evergreen boughs. This covering should not 
be thick enough to smother the plants and should 
be gradually drawn away during the spring. 
Prevention of Black-Spot and Mildew. 
Beginning in early spring and continuing until 
fall, the foliage must be kept covered with a 
spray or dust. Except in rainy periods, applica¬ 
tions should be made every 10 days, covering 
both the under and upper surfaces of the leaves. 
Pomodust can be applied with a dust gun or 
shaken from a piece of burlap. Bordeaux is a 
splendid fungicide and is economical but stains 
the foliage. If either of these materials are used, 
Black-Leaf 40 or some other contact spray will 
be necessary occasionally to kill aphis and cater¬ 
pillars. One of the best sprays is Tri-ogen which 
not only prevents disease but kills all chewing 
and sucking insects. It is widely used. Keep the 
foliage constantly covered with one of these 
materials and diseases will not bother your plants. 
Cultivating Roses thoroughly, and cutting the 
flowers with liberal stems, produces vigorous 
growth and protects them against both insects 
and diseases. 
