Construction 
1. When making the two sticks for the frame be sure they are straight, 
the proper thickness, width and length. 
2. Fasten the cross piece on the upright eight inches from the top end 
of one upright and exactly in the center of the cross piece with small brads. 
3. Start at the top and put a good strong string around the edge of the 
kite frame and fasten it at the top where you started from. Now is the 
time to get the distances equal from point to point. When you have this 
adjusted, take a short piece of string and lash the ends of the kite sticks 
to the string around the edge of the kite. This will hold all the ends in the 
proper position and they are not so liable to get out of place while you are 
putting on the cover. The center joint where the two sticks cross can be 
strengthened by wrapping a piece of string around them, and covering the 
string with glue. 
4. To cover the kite place the cover on a table top or floor, lay the kite 
frame on the cover and cut out the cover one inch larger all around than 
the kite frame. 
5. Glue the cover to the sticks, fold the edge over one inch and glue fast 
to the string around the kite frame. 
To strengthen the outside edge of the kite glue a piece of paper two 
inches wide all around the edge of the kite frame. 
To fasten on the bridle punch a few small holes in the cover so the 
bridle string can be tied to the kite frame at the points shown in the draw¬ 
ing. It is rather a hard matter to give the exact length of the bridle, as the 
weight of the materials of which the kite is constructed often vary to such 
an extent that it takes a few trial flights to determine the exact length of 
the bridle and the proper point to fasten on the kite line. When the proper 
point for fastening the kite line to the bridle has been determined tie the 
line in a knot that will not slip. If the kite rises steadily but too slowly, 
remove some of the tail. If it rises quickly but wobbly, add more weight 
to the tail. Keep experimenting and don’t bfecome discouraged if your 
first kite is a failure. 
Success comes in cans. 
Failure in can’ts. 
TAILLESS KITE 
The tailless kite is the most popular of all kites, because it is easy to 
make, flies in a very light breeze and is the steadiest kite in the air. 
These kites can be made any size from five inches up to ten feet in 
height. 
Such a kite as this has to be accurately made. The two sticks should al¬ 
ways be the same length, and the frame should be covered with cloth. 
This is the best kite to fly where there are trees, wires and houses, be¬ 
cause it rises quickly into the air and has no tail to become tangled on any 
of these obstructions. 
There are several types of tailless kites, but the two stick kite shown in 
the drawing is easy to make, and is a sure flier. 
Material Required 
Lumber—Yellow pine, spruce, white cedar or cypress. 
Pieces 
1 
1 
1 
Finished Sizes—In. 
Vs"xy 2 "x 30" 
Vs"xV 2 "x 30" 
3" 
Use 
Upright 
Cross piece 
Brace stick 
Hardware, Etc. 
One-half inch brads. 
Strong wrapping twine. 
Piece of cambric lining, 32 inches square. 
Construction 
1. Before putting the framework of this kite together be sure the cross¬ 
piece and upright pieces are straight, and the same length and width and 
thickness. If one stick is heavier or larger than the other it may overbalance 
the kite and make it unsteady while it is in the air. 
2. Cut notches in the ends of upright and cross pieces for the string that 
goes around the edge of the kite. (See detail.) 
3. Place the cross piece on the upright eight inches from the top end, 
and fasten with two small brads. Lash it securely into place with a piece 
of string wound diagonally across the joint. (See detail of cross joint.) Be 
sure the exact center of cross piece is fastened to the upright. 
4. The frame is now ready for stringing. This string should be a stout 
piece of fishing line and long enough to reach around the outer edge of the 
framework. It must be drawn up tightly and placed in the notches that 
are cut in the ends of the two sticks. 
— 27 — 
