THE CULTIVATOR 
55 
balls made of equal parts of gum arabic, prepared chalk, 
and conserve of roses, with rice milk as food. Two or 
three grains of James’ powder may be given at night, 
where the bowels are not affected, and where the dis¬ 
charge from the nose betokens putridity, balls made of 
Friar’s balsam, gum guaiacum, and camomile flowers, 
in powder, will be useful. Dogs in every stage of the 
disease should be well fed. Setons we have not found 
as useful as some have supposed. If the nose is much 
stopped, rubbing tar on the upper part is beneficial. If 
there is great insensibility and stupidity, or the head 
seems much affected, a blister on the top of the head is 
useful. 
The disease is very contagious, though it sometimes 
appears where no cause of contagion exists. The dis¬ 
eased dogs should be at once separated from the rest of 
the pack, to avoid the danger, as far as possible, of 
spreading the disease. 
DISEASE OF COWS AT TROY. 
Messrs. Gaylord & Tucker.— In the Cultivator for 
Sept, last, I perceive an article by Mr. Bement, respect¬ 
ing a very fatal disease among Cows at Troy, N. Y. 
Permit me to state my opinion upon the subject. From 
the symptoms there stated, I have no doubt that the seat 
of the disease was in the lungs, and the cause probably 
from inhaling a specific poison, or miasma, in those low 
grounds situated on the banks of a large river, which, 
from the extensive drouth had been unusually low. 
The immediate cause of death must have been congestion 
of blood in the lungs, or mortification of that important 
organ. If the disease had arisen from any thing taken 
into the stomach, the symptoms would have been very 
different. Allow me at the same time to return my 
thanks to Mr. Bement for his kindness in thus recom¬ 
mending me to the notice of the public. 
Geo. Wright, V. S. 
No. 80 Hamilton-street, Albany. 
©arben attb tl)e ©rcfyarb 
A GRAFTING KNIFE AND CHISEL. 
Messrs. Editors —I send you a description and draw¬ 
ing of an instrument, made and used by my brother last 
spring when grafting. It is a small thing, but never¬ 
theless very convenient. I don’t know where it origin¬ 
ated. It would be best made of steel; but any hard iron 
will answer the purpose. Its form is represented by 
the following figure. 
The part marked A should be made 2 inches or more 
in length, with a sharp edge. It is used for splitting 
the stock after it is sawed off and pared. The edge 
should be made with a slight curve, as in the cut, that 
the bark, when splitting, may be cut first. The wedge 
on the end marked B, is used for opening the stock to 
prepare it to receive the cions. The end marked C, is 
made in the form of a hook, that it may be hung on the 
twigs of the tree while sawing and paring the stock. 
Berlin, Ct., Dec. 17, 1841. R. North, Jr. 
CUTTING CIONS—GRAFTING, &c. 
Messrs. Gaylord and Tucker —I have paid consi¬ 
derable attention to propagating fruit trees, and would 
remark that apple cions cut as soon as the leaf falls in 
autumn will keep if buried in the bottom of any ordinary 
cellar, provided it is not wet, just as well as though 
they were cut in March. I have cut cions on the 12th 
of October, carried them 70 miles, buried them in my 
cellar, set them in July following, and they did as well 
as those cut at any other time. Pear cions will not do 
as well, as they are liable to turn black and die. Peach 
trees, budded during the last half of August, do better 
with me, lat. 41° 30m., than at any other time. The tree 
has then nearly done growing for the season and can be 
budded high up, and yet there is sufficient action in the 
sap to make the bud adhere. 
New-York, Jan. 5, 1842. Enquirer. 
THE GARDEN. 
There is one great principle which with the farmer 
should have due weight allowed it, and that is, looking 
for happiness at home. To ensure this, all the applian¬ 
ces and additions necessary to secure such a result should 
be attended to; and perhaps there is no one thing, out of 
the house, more conducive to this, than a well arranged 
and well cultivated garden. Into the minute details of 
gardening we cannot be expected to enter; for these, we 
must refer such as wish to become acquainted with the 
minutice of gardening, the cultivation of flowers and 
plants in all their varieties, to those works on the sub¬ 
ject, such as “ Bridgman’s Gardener’s Assistant,” where 
these matters are treated amply, and in detail. The 
farmer, however, should remember that every tree, 
shrub and flower he cultivates, constitutes a new link of 
attachment to bind him to his home, and render that 
home more delightful. They multiply our means of en¬ 
joyment, they make additions to our stock of knowledge, 
they invite us to a more intimate communion with na¬ 
ture, and they prevent the concentration of the mind on 
wealth, and the narrow selfishness that is too often its 
attendant. The garden is a place where many experi¬ 
ments may be advantageously made. It is a farm in mi¬ 
niature, where the different varieties of plants, their 
adaptation to our climate and our soils, and the merits of 
particular modes of culture may be tested. Most farm¬ 
ers are not able, nor is it desirable they should attempt 
experiments on a large scale; they have neither the 
time, or capital, to expend where the result may be 
doubtful to any extent; but in the garden the case is dif¬ 
ferent, and failures can never produce serious losses. 
For the farmer’s garden there may be a few general 
rules laid down, which will apply to their construction, 
management, and general cultivation. The soil is one 
of the most important considerations, and the first that 
demands attention. If naturally good, a very great point 
is gained in the outset; since if this first requisite is not 
present, nothing can be done to advantage. The garden 
should be of a deep rich loam, not too dry or porous, as 
plants would be liable to suffer from drouth; but a still 
worse fault is excess of moisture, since this renders land 
cold and heavy, difficult of cultivation, and wholly unfit 
for many of the most valuable garden plants. If too 
wet, it must first be drained effectually, then heavily 
manured, and by the spade, or trench plowing, made 
loose and friable to the depth of eighteen inches or two 
feet. If inclining to clay, or containing so much as to beat 
down and set hard on the surface after heavy rains, the 
application of sand will be of essential service, or still 
better if sandy marl can be used. The soil should be 
such as to work easy, retain sufficient moisture for 
plants, allow all that is superabundant to flow off easily, 
and be kept constantly rich. The garden should also 
have a good fence about it, to secure it against the en¬ 
croachments of animals. Many a farmer has had the 
mortification of seeing a flourishing garden destroyed in 
a single night by a neglect of his fences and gates. 
Many farmers fail in having good gardens, even where 
the soil is good, from not performing the culture as it 
should be; not selecting good seeds; not planting them 
at suitable times; or not giving them their proper posi¬ 
tion, as to sun, shade, &c. Avoid as much as possible 
having trees about those parts of your garden where you 
grow roots, vines, or any plants that require the full 
warmth and light of the sun. There are few trees of 
which the drippings are not positively injurious; and 
besides, their roots exhaust the soil around them. Trees 
may be advantageously planted on the north, west, or 
east side of gardens, as they break the cold winds from 
those quarters, and the ill effects of their shade is little 
felt. Thick hedges, or copses of evergreens, on the 
most exposed sides of gardens are useful, and their ap¬ 
pearance adds much to the general effect of the buildings, 
and agricultural improvements. 
To ensure the germination of seeds when placed in 
the earth, the earth should be brought in close contact 
with them. This is necessary to secure the requisite 
moisture, to exclude light, and to furnish a hold for the 
young roots. Seeds should never be placed too deep in 
the soil, nor is deep planting necessary to secure a co¬ 
vering, if the earth is properly rolled or pressed around 
the seed. Corn does not demand more than a covering 
of 2£ or 3 inches in thickness, if the earth is properly 
pressed over the seed; yet in the ordinary way of plant¬ 
ing, it oftener gets a covering of 5 inches than 3. Small 
seeds are often lost from this cause. They are planted 
so deep that the young plant cannot force its way to the 
upper air; it is literally buried alive. A light covering, 
well rolled or pressed down, is far better for all seeds 
than a deep one, not brought in contact with the seeds. 
There are some seeds that will germinate much better if 
soaked in warm water previous to planting. The shell, 
or envelope, becomes so very hard by drying as to pre¬ 
vent the germination, unless nature receives aid in the 
way suggested. The onion, the beet, and many of the 
smaller flower seeds, will succeed better if treated in 
this way than if planted without preparation. 
All plants cultivated in our gardens, that are natives 
of tropical climes, feel every variation of the weather 
and depression of temperature more sensibly than others, 
and consequently require additional precautions in plant¬ 
ing and in cultivation. A cold rain will frequently 
prove fatal to the Lima bean, while the common garden 
bean is unhurt. So, too, the cucumber, tomato, melon, 
pepper, egg plants, &c., will feel a frost which the pea 
or cabbage would wholly escape. There are many 
plants which are called hardy; such as the parsnep, on¬ 
ion, asparagus, parsley, pea, &c., which may be planted 
early without fear of rotting, or in general without fail¬ 
ure of germination; and many plants which at first re¬ 
quire considerable moisture are much better planted 
early than late. The carrot, celery, onion, spinach, &c. 
are of this class; and if the solving of them is delayed 
until hot, dry weather comes on, good plants can hardly 
be expected. The lettuces, too, may be sown whenever 
the ground is free from frost and sufficiently dry, since 
should it germinate only, it rarely suffers from frost, al¬ 
though its growth may be retarded. For this reason, 
many farmers as well as gardeners are in the habit of 
preparing and sowing some beds of lettuce in the fall, 
that this plant may be in season for early salads. It 
should be remembered, however, that the rapidity of 
germination is mainly depending on the temperature. 
Thus, at the same temperature, the bean will sprout as 
quick as the pea; but if the temperature is low, the bean 
would rot, while the pea would retain its germinating 
power, and be ready to take advantage of the first favora¬ 
ble increase of temperature to vegetate. 
Where it is desirable to procure early vegetables, it 
has become quite common to use hot beds or forcing 
frames; and the process of constructing and managing 
these has been so simplified and rendered so easy, that 
every farmer or owner of a garden may avail himself of 
their use. Occasional failures will indeed occur, but 
with reasonable care, not oftener than in open culture; 
and a supply of early vegetables is so conducive to 
health, not to speak of them as a luxury, that we think 
few will regret the trifling expenditure such hot beds 
will occasion. In our northern climate, the use of such 
beds enables us to procure a supply of early or summer 
cabbages, early radishes, early lettuce, tomatoes, pep¬ 
pers, egg plants, &c., for transplanting, as well as for the 
table. At page 38 of the Cultivator for 1840, is a de¬ 
scription and drawing of a hot bed made in a permanent 
frame or box, and which an experience of several years 
enables us to pronounce an excellent fixture. By refer¬ 
ence to that article, it will be seen that the construction 
and management is quite easy; and we have the plea¬ 
sure of knowing that many of our friends who have con¬ 
structed beds on that principle have been well satisfied 
with the results. Hot beds made in that way, or in a 
close box, do not suffer as much from drouth, or require 
as much watering as when made open, or in such a man¬ 
ner that evaporation can take place from all their sides, 
as is the usual practice. But such box hot beds are un¬ 
fit for purposes in which a continued heat is required for 
a considerable time, as no additions of fermenting ma¬ 
nures can be made to them, as may be to those without 
such covering to the sides. We have found, however, 
that the heat generated in the first mass of manure is 
fully sufficient for ordinary vegetables, and they may re¬ 
quire some regulation to prevent its becoming excessive, 
particularly when aided by the heat of the sun in the 
middle of the day. In very dry porous grounds, it will 
be better to have the bed sunk some two feet in the 
earth, as it will suffer much less from drouth, and re¬ 
quire less attention than if wholly on the surface of the 
garden; but if the soil is retentive and wet, such a pit 
would retain water, and of course prevent all fermenta¬ 
tion. The following directions, which we copy from 
the “Young Gardener’s Assistant,” are very correct, and 
explain the method of making the common hot bed very 
intelligibly: 
“ It may be necessary to remind my readers of the 
necessity of being always prepared to sow cabbage, let¬ 
tuce, tomato, and egg plant seeds, [we would add pep¬ 
pers and radishes] in hot beds the last week in February 
or early in March; for this purpose, let some fresh sta¬ 
ble dung and some rich compost be engaged before¬ 
hand. Some gardeners make their beds on the level 
ground, but it is always safest to make them in pits from 
eighteen inches to two feet deep; in order to do this, 
the pits should be dug in autumn, or a heap of dung may 
be deposited on the ground intended for the beds before 
the frost sets in, and good earth may be obtained from 
the pits without difficulty. 
“The frames should be made of good sound planks; 
the back plank may be two feet wide, and the end ones 
may be so sloped as to make a fifteen inch plank do for 
the front. A frame calculated for four sashes of three 
feet in width by six in length, as above described, should 
be nearly thirteen feet long, and about six broad at the 
top. 
“ The frame being set over the pit and properly fast¬ 
ened, the fresh dung should be spread regularly in the 
pit to the depth of twenty or twenty-four inches; if the 
dung be in a good heating condition, cover it with six 
or eight inches deep of mold, then lay on the sashes, 
and protect the beds from the inclemency of the weather. 
In two or three days the rank steam may pass off; it will 
then be necessary to stir the mold before the seed be 
sown, to prevent the growth of young weeds that may 
be germinating; then sow the seeds, either in shallow 
drills, or broadcast, as equally as possible, reserving a 
small quantity of the warm mold to be sown or sifted 
over the seeds. This description of a hot bed is intend¬ 
ed expressly for the raising of spring cabbage, lettuce, 
tomatoes, and such other plants as may be required for 
early planting. Beds made earlier in the season, or for 
forcing, will require a greater abundance of manure.” 
In the ordinary method of cultivating the farmer’s 
garden, or the common vegetable garden, there is, in 
our northern states, little more than preparation for 
coming months that can be advantageously performed in 
March. The manure may be drawn upon the garden 
and piled in heaps for spreading preparatory to plowing. 
It is always better that fine rotted manure or compost be 
used for the garden, as the straw mixed with fresh stable 
manures renders the working of the earth into beds dif¬ 
ficult, and prevents the fineness of mold so necessary 
for the germination of the smaller seeds. Where the 
condition of the soil will admit, a few beds of carrots, 
lettuces, peas, and similar hardy plants may be put in 
for early use, although it would not be best to plant all 
intended for the year at this time. Asparagus beds 
should now be cleared off, the litter put upon them at 
the beginning of winter removed, compost spread over 
the beds to the depth of three or four inches, and well 
worked in with a strong fork, avoiding disturbing the 
crowns of the roots as much as possible. This is one 
of the most delicious of vegetables, and is deserving of 
far more general cultivation. There is an impression 
that there is something mysterious and difficult in the 
growth of asparagus; but this is all idle, as there are 
few plants cultivated with more ease and certainty. It 
is idle, it is true, to think of growing fine asparagus 
where the soil is wet or compact to within a few inches 
of the surface; or where there is no richness to give 
vigor to the plant. Asparagus requires a soil permeable 
