LaFRANCE FRUIT AND PLANT FARMS 
3 
DORSETT (Per)—From reports we get, this is the only real rival of the 
Dunlap in hardiness. This is a very healthy plant but does not make as many 
plants as the Dunlap. The berries are larger and firmer and of good quality. 
Through both drouths of 1934-35, the Dorsett withstood hot dry weather as 
well, if not better, than the Dunlap. 
FAIRFAX (Per)—This is another variety sent out by the Government 
which is doing fairly well. It is very similar to the Dorsett. We think it not 
quite so productive from reports we get. Very large and good quality, really 
extra good quality. 
PREMIER (Per)—This is the largest early berry. It is a wonderful 
berry. The plants are very large and healthy but do not make very many 
runners, consequently it is not very popular with nurserymen. The berries are 
very firm and a good shipper. Not of extra quality. 
A large number of varieties that we grew in the past have been eliminated. 
The past three seasons eliminated them. Many that could not stand the rigors 
of our climate simply were discontinued. 
EVERBEARERS 
MASTODON (Per) —Mastodon will not withstand drouth and hot dry 
weather as well as they might. Progressive is better for home use. The 
quality is better than the Mastodon. The Mastodon is favored mostly because 
the berry is of a much larger size. 
GEM (Per)—This new variety seems to be the most popular of all ever- 
bearer where it has been tried. It did well for us this year considering the 
hot dry weather. We got a few berries late in the season. Anyway we have 
the plants and advise you to give them a trial. 
All varieties we have growing now, have perfect blossoms. They do not 
need anything planted with them to produce fruit. Heretofore, quite a num¬ 
ber of varieties of strawberries had imperfect blossoms, and had to have per¬ 
fect blossoms planted along side of them. But it looks like the imperfect 
blossom varieties are definitely done away with. 
HOW TO PLANT AND GROW STRAWBERRIES 
Any good soil will grow good strawberries. We plant in rows three and 
a half feet apart and fifteen to eighteen inches apart in the row. Keep the 
plants well cultivated and hoed throughout the growing season, allowing no 
weeds to grow at any time. If you allow the weeds to grow late in the season 
they will shorten the crop of fruit the following year. If you let the grass 
grow late in the season it will probably save you mulching but at the expense 
of a crop the following season. The time to mulch is when the ground freezes 
in the fall. Do not mulch with tree leaves as they pack too closely and will 
smother the plants if you have some wet, unfavorable weather. It is all right 
to place leaves between the rows. Straw is the easiest mulch to obtain. 
About two inches thick is plenty. Sometimes I have known parties to mulch 
six or eight inches deep and that will smother out the plants also. 
The season of 1934 was the only year that we failed to pull our plants 
through a drouth. The season of 1935 was almost as dry and hot but the 
plants came through in very good shape, and we really have an immense 
prospect for a fruit crop, but the plants are thin on the ground. 
However, if you are fixed to irrigate, so much the better. But it is not 
advisable to irrigate too much in the late summer because you make too many 
runpers. Unless you can keep the runners down, don’t overdo it, or thin the 
plants out in September and the plants should go into the winter with plenty 
of moisture in the ground. 
