land where the trees are to be planted should be well worked before planting, so 
that when the trees begin to grow the roots will not come in contact with hard soil 
to check their growth. 
In setting out trees on high, well-drained land, care should be taken that the 
crown root is about on the level with the top of the ground after the mounds settle, 
which they always do. We believe that more trees are ruined from setting too deep 
than from any other cause. 
It is not a bad plan to drape the tops of the trees loosely with moss as they are 
set, to protect them from the hot sun if planted in hot weather. If the moss is too 
tight it will interfere with the young growth or cause it to be broken off when the 
moss is removed. 
When trees are received they should be unpacked immediately and “heeled in” in a 
shady place. Plow out a furrow of sufficient length to accommodate the trees when 
spread out singly, with a shovel slope off the furrow at an angle of 45 degrees, place 
roots of trees in furrow, spread out the roots, pack the earth about them and water, 
covering tops with sacks. 
Everything having been arranged for planting, remove the trees from the furrow, 
a few at a time as needed for setting, trim the roots and wrap them in a damp blanket 
for carrying to the field. Under no circumstances should a strong sunlight or the wind 
be allowed to strike the roots as the roots of a citrus tree are very susceptible to injury. 
We always trim the top and root ready for planting, but should any of the roots be 
broken, cut them off smoothly. The advantage of a smoothly cut root end over a torn 
and ragged one is that it calluses and heals much more readily. From the root just 
back of the callus, large numbers of small roots grow out which soon take the place of 
those removed. Where a double tap root is found, it is generally best to leave one a 
little longer than the other. 
If it is possible to so arrange the work, the holes should not be dug until just 
before planting as the soil will still contain its natural moisture when placed about the 
trees and in some soil the sides of the holes become hard and compact, so much so as 
to necessitate their being shaved off before setting the trees in them. Dig the hole, 
making it large enough and deep enough to hold the root system without cramping, 
holding the tree in the hand and fill with the other hand. The surface soil should be 
kept separate and placed in first in filling up the holes. Water should be applied using 
plenty, two buckets full when the hole is about filled in, working the soil thoroughly 
around the roots with the hands. Form a basin around the trees to hold water that 
may be added later during the season; mulch the surface with dry leaves or grass. Be 
sure that the trees never suffer for lack of water especially during the first year after 
planting. If trees show signs of needing water, put on plenty and recover with the 
mulch, and do this as often as the trees show the need of it. 
A citrus crop is a surer one than most fruit crops if the grower has a thorough 
knowledge of its culture. The principal cause of crop failure is probably the use of 
insufficient fertilizer. Feed a citrus tree well and it will bear regularly. Drought 
damage can be largely overcome by proper methods of soil culture and entirely over¬ 
come by irrigation. Growers in some sections of the state have quite a simple irrigat¬ 
ing system; free flowing artesian wells furnishing the supply and ditches distributing 
the flow where needed, but no matter what the system is, be sure the trees get enough 
the first season or two. 
