DRAINAGE--good drainage desired; no water should be allowed to stand on plants dur¬ 
ing the winter. 
FERTILIZER--well rotted manures the best; applied in winter as a mulch or in 
spring and worked into the soil. 
PLANT--dlg holes large enough(diameter) to amply accommodate the roots when they 
spread out almost flat and work soil amongst roots; plant so that the crown 
(part where leaves and roots join) is about 2” below the surface; water dur¬ 
ing dry spells. 
When-anytime-after flowering or early spring considered best. 
PROTEUTION—peat moss mulch the first winter, 1-2"; some well rotted manures will 
be helpful. 
BEARDED IRIS 
(Dwarfs, Intermediates, Fall-bloomers, Tall-bearded, and Table) 
SOIL—will grow in any soil, garden loam best; either acid or lime, lime best. 
STJN--as much as possible, 6 hours or more for best results. 
DRAINAGE--good, raised beds desired; absolutely no water standing over plants In 
winter. 
FERTILIZER--Spring-Bone Meal, if Commercial, use sparingly; work into soil between 
plants. 
Summer-only if transplantlng-Bone Meal, if Commercial very little; Cow 
Manure, well-rotted and 3-5" below plants, this is best done in 
remaking the bed and only in well drained bed3--absolutely no 
fresh manure. 
Fall -Bone Meal safest and only one advised at this time. 
PLANT--HOW-1. heavy soils, plant so that rhizome(thick part of root) is almost on 
the surf ace, should be able to see rhizome after watering. Spread the 
feeding roots(small)out, not straight down; 2. light sandy soils, cover 
rhizome Water well after planting and during dry periods. 
Distance apart-9" for best results. 
When-anytlme-after flowering is best and most u3ual;lf late fall, plant same 
depth as before and then mound up 1-li-" of sand, be sure to remove or 
spread the sand in the spring. 
TRANSPLANT--When-after flowering is best for digging and dividing. How often-every 
3 or 4 years when plants become crowed. 
PROTECTION—Winter-cover new plantings in fall, use straw, salt hay, excelsior, 
evergreens, anything that won't mat down and retain the moisture, and 
will prevent alternate freezing and thawing. 
AIR CIRCTJLATION--lmportant, keep all litter and other plants (especially fast grow¬ 
ing annuals) off and away from the iris plants; irises want all the 
light, air, and sunshine they can get for best results. 
BEARDLESS IRIS 
(Japanese, Siberians, and many species) 
SOIL--any soil, the richer the better; these are heavy feeders. 
SUN--be3t if they have some shade but need at least 3 hours of sunshine. 
DRAINAGE--want lots of water while coming into bloom for best results; absolutely 
no water should be standing on them in winter. 
FERTILIZER--manures are excellent (but not too green) apply in winter or spring. 
PLANT--Vftien-anytime,early spring and after flowering considered the best, keep them 
well watered after moving. 
How -plant crown (part where leaves and roots join) 2" deep and spread the 
roots, not straight down, sind work soil amongst them. 
PROTECTION--peat moss mulch the first winter, 1-2"; also well rotted manures, work 
these into the soil in spring. 
ORIENTAL POPPIES 
SOIL--any soil, good garden loam, the richer the better-heavy feeders. 
SUN--llke it-rose and dark colored ones retain their colors better if planted in 
partial shade. 
DRAINAGE--need excellent drainage-absolutely no water to stand on crown (part where 
leaves grow out) of plant. 
FERTILIZER--shovel full of well rotted manure worked into the soil at bottom of 12" 
hole; rich leaf mold, 2-3 years old can also be used. 
PLANT--'When-August and September best for field grown plants. 
How -dig 12" hole and work in manure or leaf mold, plant so that the crown 
(top of plant where the leaves start) is 2" below the level of the bed 
(the level of the bed should be raised, higher than the surrounding 
ground to afford good drainage.); water well while filling the soil; 
keep soil loose and friable over the crown of the plant,but be careful 
of the leaves coming up. 
PROTECTION--straw, salt hay, or excelsior woiked suround new growth for first year. 
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