8 
MISSION GARDENS 
Gladiolus 
Tip-Top (Pfitzer). Color a warm red to scar¬ 
let. A very large, tall-growing novelty car¬ 
rying 7-8 wide-open flowers of the real 
Pfitzer type, open at once. Long flower 
spike, of 18-20 buds, well placed. Each: 
L 60c; M 40c; S 30c; Bits, 10 for 80c. 
Toa (Miller, N. Z.). A greatly improved 
Pfitzer’s Triumph. Rosy salmon with darker 
blotch. A strong grower with large florets 
well placed, usually eight open. Each: 
Jj $1.20; M 80c; S 50c; Bits, 10 for 60c. 
Tobersun (Austin). Soft yellow with light car¬ 
mine markings. Very good. Per 10: 1/ 60c; 
M 40c; S 20c; Bits, 100 for 30c. 
Tutanekai (Doney, N.Z.). Bittersweet orange, 
russet-brown flecking. An unusual and at¬ 
tractive Glad. Per 10: L $1.20; M 80c; 
S 50c; Bits, 10 for 10c. 
Troubadour (Pfitzer). 85 days. Bright purple 
with long spike, excellent flowers. Per 10: 
L 60c; M 30c; S 15c; Bits, 100 for 20c. 
Valencia (Rev. Christ). Very large orange to 
rose, fine form and placement. Each: 
L 20c; M 15c; S 10c; Bits, 10 for 10c. 
Wairangi (Do). Pleasing purple with cream 
markings, tall spike with 7-8 open. Per 10: 
L $1.20; M 80c; S 50c; Bits, 10 for 10c. 
Wasaga (Palmer). 90-9 5 days. Glowing buff 
with wide-open waved blooms. Five open 
at once. First-class certificate A.G.S., 1931. 
A Glad that attracts much attention. Per 
10: L $1.60; M 80c; S 50c; Bits, 100 for 
$ 1 . 00 . 
Whero (Burns, N. Z.). Brilliant scarlet-red, 
with darker flecks at the outer edges of the 
petals. Perfect spike with 10-12 large 
florets open at once. Each: L $5.00; 
M $3.00; S $2.50; Bits, Each 75c. 
White Douglas (See page 2). 
W. H. Phipps (Diener). 114 days. La France 
pink. Known as “The Wonder Glad.” Per 
10: L 50c; M 30c; S 15c; Bits, 100 for 15c. 
Wolfgang von Goethe (Pfitzer). Salmon-red 
raspberry color. Early bloomer. Per 10: 
L $1.00; M 50c; S 30c; Bits, 100 for 40c. 
Wurtembergia (Pfitzer). A very lovely scarlet 
color with a soft cream blotch. Per 10: 
L $1.00; M 60c; S 40c; Bits, 100 for 50c. 
Cultural Notes on GLADIOLUS 
To have gorgeous flowers in Gladiolus, it is 
not enough to buy the choice varieties, but you 
must also grow them the better way. They 
grow in almost any type of soil, but must have 
plenty of sunshine. An occasional application of 
a complete commercial fertilizer, will help to 
bring those tall spikes of exhibition flowers. 
Planting 
Do not make the mistake of planting too far 
apart. All the space ne'cessary for Glads is, that 
they get plenty of light and circulation of air. 
Plant in double rows with 2 inches of space be¬ 
tween the bulbs. The rows should be 18 inches 
apart. 
Cultivation 
Cultivation begins soon after planting. It is 
a good practice to remove the first weeds before 
the gladiolus are up. Weekly cultivation will 
do much to preserve the moisture needed for the 
development of the plants, especially if a water- 
supply is not on hand. Cultivation should be 
very shallow late in the season when the Glads 
begin to bloom. 
Watering 
A generous supply of water will help to pro¬ 
duce excellent spikes. More water is needed if 
Glads are planted close together or in perennial 
borders, where they are pressed by other plants 
with a more extensive root system. Too frequent 
watering should be avoided, a thorough soaking 
from time to time is much better. An overhead 
sprinkler turned on over night is ideal. 
Blooming 
This is the time to enjoy the reward of patient 
labor. For home decoration the spikes should 
be cut when the first flower opens. Usually the 
color keeps much better than if allowed to open 
inside. If many flowers are wanted for a special 
occasion, they can be stored away at a tempera¬ 
ture of 35-40 degrees, where they keep in good 
condition a week or two. This keeping quality 
is especially welcome for the flower show. 
THRIPS 
If you have succeeded in controlling Thrips, 
your greatest difficulty in growing Gladiolus 
successfully, has been overcome. Thrips is a 
very small insect, which sucks the sap from the 
plant, and causes it to' wither and dry-up. Usu¬ 
ally, just before the buds begin to open. They 
multiply very rapidly and soon destroy the en¬ 
tire plant. We have seen many plantings where 
people did not get a single good flower on ac¬ 
count of Thrips. Some were so disappointed 
that they said, “No Glads for me anymore.” 
Others have used the proper methods of con¬ 
trolling Thrips, and have raised perfect flowers. 
One party informed us, that in 1934, he lost all 
his Gladiolus on account of Thrips. Last season 
he followed instructions as given below, for 
treating Gladiolus for Thrips, and the result was 
that not a flower was lost, all were gorgeous. 
Treatment for Thrips 
Disinfect bulbs in a solution of bi-chloride of 
mercury, 1 oz. to 6 gal. of water. Keep bulbs 
in solution, at least 7 hours; use wooden con¬ 
tainer for the solution, because bi-chloride of 
mercury corrodes metal containers. The solu¬ 
tion is dangerously poisonous and should be 
handled with caution. 
This treatment will not only kill Thrips, but 
is also the best remedy against scab and other 
diseases of Glads. If you have only a small 
quantity of bulbs, remove the husks before 
treatment. 
All our bulbs are treated against Thrips and 
diseases before being shipped out. This how¬ 
ever, does not mean that your bulbs cannot 
become infested. Thrips can spread in many 
ways. They can be carried far distances by 
the wind, and after once in the garden, they 
increase very rapidly, especially in dry weather. 
Spray against such infestation, beginning as 
soon as the plants are a few inches high. Use 
the following solution: 2 tablespoons of Paris 
Green, 2 lbs. of brown sugar, and 3 gals, of 
water. Spray thoroughly once a week. 
Sizes of Bulbs 
Our bulbs are carefully graded with a stand¬ 
ard bulb grader. We offer them in three sizes. 
Large, 1*4 in. and up; Medium, % to 1*4 in.; 
Small, % to % in. 
