January 26, 1907. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
fiuding S. umbrosa, S. Geurn^ and S. Wal- 
lacei. There are also many Campanulas, 
Veronicas, and other rock plants of dwarf 
habit. In spring you could have Daffodils, 
Primroses, Polyanthuses, and Wallflowers. 
We have selected all of the above for their 
Hwarf habit and hardiness. 
1468. Shrubs and. Flowers. 
I took over a new house with a garden, 
the latter in a rough state, with clammy, 
.lay soil. I have given this a layer of field 
soil, and laid it out like the accompanying 
diagram. The size of the garden is a;, ,-ut 
50 sq. yards. What kind of shrubs would 
;you recommend? I would like hardy ever¬ 
greens. Are there any flowering ones ? What 
plants might I use for the edging, as well 
as the round bed in the centre? I would 
like nice colours. I see from your last 
issue that bulbs cannot be planted now, ex¬ 
cept some sorts. I would like some Roses. 
Which look best, trees or bushes ? As re¬ 
gards a couple of trees A are forest or fruit 
trees preferable as far as appearance goes? 
Should I put some manure in the soil, and 
which is best in my case? You speak in 
your last number of burning surface soil 
and adding burned clay. I gather this is 
to be done by making a fire on the top of 
the soil. (Ignoramus, Middlesex.) 
The rank or littery horse manure woul-d 
be best for your clayey .soil. You should set 
about digging or trenching it and manuring 
it at once. You cannot burn soil by making 
a fire on the top. You must first get a great, 
body of fire, and then heap the day over 
and around it. You might put a standard 
Rose in the centre of the variety Mrs. J. 
Laing. You can also plant Rose bushes 
round the standard, consisting of Capt. Hay¬ 
ward, Dupuy Jamain, Caroline Testout, La 
France, Mrs. W. J. Grant, and Liberty. The 
drawing does not tell us the size of the 
bed, but the Roses should be 18 in. or 2 ft. 
apart. We should not plant any forest trees, 
as they would spoil the garden by shading 
it, and with their roots. You might get 
9uch Apples as Peasgood’s Nonsuch and 
Cox’s Orange grafted on.the Paradise stock 
and in the form of bushes. Evergreen flower, 
ing shrubs that would suit you are Olearia 
Haastii, Berberis Darwinii,' B. stenophylla, 
Pieris floribunda, and White Broom (Cy- 
tisus albus). The last loses its leaves, but 
the stems are green. Dwarf and useful 
flowering shrubs that are bare in winter are 
Spiraea japonica Watereri, S. Douglasii, 
Deutzia crenata fl. pi., Magnolia stellata, 
and Weigela Eva Rathke. For the other 
two borders, you should have a variety of 
annuals, such as Godetia Lady Albemarle, 
Clarkia elegans, Malope trifida grandiflora, 
Lavatera trimestris, Cornflower, Pansies, 
Violas, Scabious, yellow and white, Sweet 
Sultan, Erysimum, perofskianum, double 
Larkspur, and Convolvulus minor. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
1469. Early Flowering Chrysanthemums. 
Can you give me a list of outdoor Chry¬ 
santhemums? I have had for several years 
a good show of different colours and sorts, 
but wish to have a change, and when once I 
get named sorts I want to keep the names, 
as hitherto I have lost the names of every 
one I have grown, which makes it hard to 
choose when one wants to purchase from a 
catalogue. This last, autumn I have cut, I 
may say, thousands of blooms off about 100- 
plants. 1 should prefer early flowering 
sorts, if you can kindly oblige. (Chry¬ 
santhemum, Wolverton.) 
Varieties that commence flowering . in 
August are Parisiana (white), Gustave Grun- 
nerwald (pale pink), Marie Masse (mauve), 
Crimson Marie Masse, Mme. C. Desgranges. 
(white), Georsre Wermig (pale yellow), Har¬ 
vest Home (bronzy red), Holmes’ White,' 
Horace Mar-tin (deep-yellow),-Mme,- C-. Per--. 
rier (white, tinted pink), Robbie Burns (rosy- 
cerise), Ralph Curtis (creamy white), and 
Roi de Precoces (crimson). Varieties that 
commence flowering in September are Ada 
(salmon-pink), Blush Beauty (blush), Queen 
of the Earlies (white), Bronze Queen of the 
Earlies, Golden Queen of the Earlies, Carrie 
(deep yellow), Goacher’s Pink, Harrie 
(bronzy orange), Mytchett Pink, Mytchett 
White, Mrs. A. Thomson (golden yellow), 
The Sparkler (bronzy scarlet), Tuckswood 
Bronze, Tuckswood Early (white), White 
Bait, Pink Aster, Polly (orange), Primrose, 
Reggie (cream), Roi des Blancs (white), Rode 
(terra-ootta), September Bell (clear pink), 
and Tangiers (reddish orange). The two 
lists include three dozen varieties, and as 
we give the colours where necessary, you will 
be able to make your selection. Possibly 
some of them may be the same as what you 
had, but without a list of names we cannot 
tell. 
VEGETABLES. 
1470. Carrots and Parsnips Forked. 
Will you please state two or three of the 
most likely reasons why roots, such as Car¬ 
rots and Parsnips, should grow forked in¬ 
stead of straight? The soil is a light, sandy 
loam. (A. Marshall, Kent.) 
One of the most common reasons for the 
forking of carrots and Parsnips is that fresh 
manure is dug into the soil when the seeds 
are about to be sown. Another reason is 
the presence of stones or hard clods of earth, 
which push the young roots aside, and then 
the roots thickening in these positions, they 
get crooked or forked. The soil for such 
deep-rooted things should be deeply trenched 
in the autumn, and all hard lumps of earth 
well broken up. If you have any land that 
was well manured last year for another crop, 
this would be suitable ’for Carrots and Par¬ 
snips, which could be stimulated during 
growth by artificial manures, if you want 
them to be of large size. If you want to 
grow perfectly straight and smooth roots, 
it would be necessary to use a large dibber, 
making holes from 18 in. to 2 ± ft., and filling 
these up with a compost of rich soil that 
has been put through a rather close meshed 
sieve. There being no stones in such a soil, 
the roots go straight down and thicken in 
a straight and smooth form. 
1471. Spring Cabbages Clubbed. 
I have a conundrum facing me which per¬ 
haps you can solve. My garden, was trenched 
and manured last spring, and then dressed 
with quick-lime—cropped well during the 
summer—and in the middle of September I 
planted 120 spring Cabbages. To-day I 
noticed some were flagging, and on digging 
'up a score of the worst cases found them 
all badly clubbed. As all the rules of the 
game so far as I know them have been fol¬ 
lowed, can you suggest any explanation? 
The plants were spread over four different 
parts of the garden., in two cases where 
Greens were never grown before, yet each 
patch is similarly affected. The plants came 
to me from an old-established local man. 
were healthy looking, and planted under 
good conditions by my own hands within 
twenty-four hours of ‘ being lifted. Why 
. this clubbing ? Would you now suggest that 
I dig.up all the remaining plants, although 
so far as I can see they are not flagging? 
(Roundabout, Northumberland.) 
We should not advise you to dig up the 
remaining plants because, "if they are healthy 
now, the chances are that they will form 
hearts before they get affected*. It is just 
possible that the fungus was already in 
vour garden, and had still been active in 
September. Another suggestion we should 
make is that the plants might have been 
affected with the disease before yon .had_ 
them< even although the’roots did not show 
much- signs-of• it; The fungus being micro¬ 
scopic, no one can detect its presence until 
6 3 
it has affected the roots and caused clubbing. 
We presume you examined the roots of the 
Cabbages before planting them. A safe¬ 
guard would have been to destroy any plant 
showing the least trace of clubbed root and 
dip the roots of the others into a mixture 
of lime water and soot previous to planting 
them. It might prove advantageous to top 
dress the soil at once with slacked lime until 
the soil appears white. Avoid dusting the 
leaves of the Cabbages. This lime may 
serve to keep the fungus in check till the 
plants get well advanced in spring. If the 
ground had been bare, a heavy dressing of 
gas lime dug into the top spit would have 
been of some service. Nothing should be 
planted for six or eight weeks after using 
fresh gas lime. 
1472. Potatos for Heavy Land. 
The gardeners here say that Early Rose 
and Up-to-Date Potatos are the only kinds 
to suit our heavy ground with good results. 
The subsoil is 10 in. down on the average. 
I myself thought of trying The Factor or 
Duchess of Cornwall. Do you think these 
would be an improvement, or would you re¬ 
commend any others that ought to do as 
well or better than the first-named? I am 
thinking of trying Irish-grown seed. (J. B., 
Surrey.) 
You can get either Irish or Scotch grown 
seed and expect to get good results. If the two 
varieties you name give good results in your 
soil, you should still retain them until ’you 
can prove that any others do as well, or 
better. Varieties that usually succeed well 
on heavy soil are Evergood, Northern Star, 
and Factor. 
1473. Vegetables for Light and Heavy Soils. 
A portion of my garden has heavy, clav 
soil, and the remainder a medium loam. 
Would you kindly state which vegetables will 
do best in the respective soils, and give par¬ 
ticulars of Potatos suitable for heavy and 
lighter ground? (E. J. E., Essex.) 
You can grow most vegetables on a heavy 
clay soil, including Peas, Beans, Cabbages, 
Cauliflower, and all the tribe of Greens. 
We should select the heavy soil for late or 
main crops, and use the’lighter soils as 
much as possible for the production of early 
crops. Potatos we should also grow as 
much as possible on light soils. Onions mav 
also be sown on light soil, but plenty of 
manure must be dug into the ground every 
year in autumn. It will be necessary to 
prepare the ground well for such roots as 
Carrots, Parsnips, and Beetroot by trench¬ 
ing, but light soils are not as a rule so rich 
a® the heavier ones, and it would be well 
to heavily manure the previous crops where 
you intend to grow such roots the following 
year. In some gardens where the soil is 
inclined to be heavy, it is often necessary 
to take out the natural soil and make up a 
compost of sand, loam, peat and leaf mould, 
with plenty of wood ashes in which to grow 
such roots. This preparation should be done 
in the autumn, or as earl}' in winter as 
possible, allowing it to settle before sowing 
the seeds. Ground that is prepared in this 
way may be used for a good many years 
for. the purpose of growing roots and 
Onions. For heavy soils, you may use those 
Potatos mentioned in the previous answer, 
and for light land you may plant Factor, 
Sir John Llewellyn and Royal Kidney. 
FRUIT. 
1474. Fruit Trees After Moving. 
I have some Apple, Pear, and Plum trees 
which are about ten years old. They have 
never given any frtiit, ’although they have all 
bloomed each year. Last vear I moved to 
my present address and took the trees with 
me. Some of them- came into leaf and some 
did not. M ould yoti kindlv tell me how to 
treat them now. (One Who Wants to 
Know, Middlesex.) 
